denalidevo

Great! Will do - used to live in Boston myself back in the day (college). Sorry you can only get your Index stoke via the interweb. Been a great "winter" for rock climbing here!

I couldn't agree more! Just don't hurt yourself training for the climb... Once you're on the mountain (i.e. training is over), this is the most important skill to master.

Needless spray is exactly why I, for a long time, never bothered to post any TR's of any kind on cc.com. Then for some reason lately I decided, what the hell, to start posting. I think mainly because I was jazzed to be climbing in Dec, Jan and Feb - thought others might feel the same and wouldn't mind hearing about the conditions, etc. If you think this is as useless as daytime TV, nobody's forcing you to read 'em. By the way, climbed on GNS yesterday - took some Index "newbies" on their first crack climbs. I'll skip the boring details, but It was SICK!

No worries! I'm easily amused, not easily offended.

Thanks Sherri! I guess if I write up a TR of how I climbed Godzilla for the "umpteenth time" in January when it was 33 degrees, I'll just have to take the chance of offending some poor sob who's stuck indoors reading my "drivel" at the comfort of their computer. I'll take that any day.

SICK!

Different strokes fer different folks. Not all of us are obviously as bad-ass as you... in fact, why post TR's for any climbs at all? With my experience at CCC.com, someone is bound to spray the shit out of just about any report, no matter how interesting is may be to others. Why put up with it at all?

Have you seen this info? http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/reservations-and-permits.htm You won't need a climbing permit, but seems a wilderness permit is required regardless. You can either reserve one or take your chances getting one the day of your trip. To reserve a permit, looks like you'll need to send in this form: http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/campclimbpermitresreqformrev6_09.pdf

None of the three guiding services has any claim to the public hut at Muir - they have exclusive use of the Gombu hut only. Clients that don't fit into the Gombu stay in tents, not the public shelter. This is a condition stipulated by their concession with RNP.

Trip: Index Town Wall - Roger's Corner/Breakfast of Champions Date: 3/5/2010 Trip Report: In an effort to avoid the hordes of pent-up climbers expected to descend on the Lower Town Wall this Saturday, Gene and I drove to Index and climbed Roger's Corner (5.9) and the ultra-classic crackfest Breakfast of Champions (5.10a) Friday morning. The weather was splitter and so was the rock. I've been training hard this winter - trimming down, lifting weights, running - and it's paid off. I cruised Breakfast of Champions: my first clean 5.10 lead at Index. Been wanting that for some time now - felt good to get it done. We'd hoped to run some long top rope laps on the two climbs but time ran short and we acquiesced, albeit reluctantly, to other commitments - me to work and Gene to shoveling wood chips in his back yard. Pics at http://climb.denalidevo.net/2010/03/rock-climb-rogers-cornerbreakfast-of.html Gear Notes: Full rock rack, 32 oz. all american sub sandwich Approach Notes: Mud on trail

Suh-weet! Welcome to CCC.com - where eager inquiries are often responded to with high-handed sarcasm from self-designated "experts". Sorry - it's not you and we're not all like that.

Copper Creek food is da' bomb! I spent a few nights at the Paradise Inn last year and enjoyed the food, maybe the chef was different...

I've met AAI clients at Paradise before - just let the company know that's your plan so they aren't waiting for you to show up in Seattle.

FYI - for kmehrtens and any other "newbies" who may be following along: It's not that a pair of well-conditioned crampons aren't important. Proper gear is very important, but on a guided trip (as kmehrtens was inquiring about) clients most likely rent or (occasionally) purchase a pair of new crampons, so in this sense I don't consider it one of the "two most important" things that you need to focus on. Any guide service you hire should give you advice as to what gear to bring for a particular trip and do a complete gear check prior to your climb, including inspecting your crampons. In my experience, clients often focus too much on the gear/technical aspects of climbing Rainier (toys are fun!) but I can count on two fingers the number of clients who actually overtrained for the climb (and they walked the mountain like they owned it!). That's why I have emphasized that clients focus on their physical conditioning (how hard you can work) and mental fortitude (how you handle suffering). Regarding the scenario Buckaroo mentions above, sharp crampons would keep you attached to the mountain, but in the case of an actual fall would do little to stop you once you were off your feet. The conditions he outlined above warrant the use of fixed anchors and running belays, techniques I have used in such conditions when necessary. That's one of the reasons people often go with a guided trip, to handle such dicey situations safely.

Glad we could help! Best of luck to you - train hard!

I've guided several aspiring Coloradan's up Rainier. In my experience it's nothing to do with the altitude that causes them so much difficulty - it's the difference between climbing up Rainier's steep, treacherous glacial terrain efficiently vs. walking on a fairly benign trail/scramble at the same altitude in Colorado. In their case I think our clients from CO overestimate the altitude equation in their favor and come less prepared for the strenuous physical demands of Rainier. You're right, I've never tried it. I'm sure it may help, but I don't really need it - by the time I've guided my third trip of the year I'm fully acclimatized. And even on the first few trips I'm still more efficient than our clients, whom we take up at a slow, steady pace - it doesn't wear me out, so I don't bother to acclimatize beforehand. For most of our clients (who aren't there to set speed records), they don't have time to come early and hang out at Paradise - so for them physical conditioning is the key component vs. acclimatization. I was talking about acclimatization as it pertains to air pressure. I'm confused by your distinction of "pressure change acclimatization" and "oxygen level acclimatization", and I think such a distinction (as worded) is flawed. What we think of as "oxygen level" on big mountains is directly related to pressure. In reality there isn't less oxygen at altitude - the amount of O2 molecules in the air is exactly the same as at sea level. The difference is the lower atmospheric pressure at high altitude causes the 02 molecules to spread farther apart, thus when you take a breath you get a lower concentration of O2 molecules per breath. It takes time for your body to adapt to this - this adaption process is termed acclimatization, and yes it has little to do with physical conditioning, but on a 3 day climb of Rainier you aren't getting acclimatized. That's why I've noticed good physical conditioning is more helpful than acclimatization for the clients I've guided. Now on Denali, it's a different matter: you spend 18-20 days on an expedition at much higher altitudes but exert less effort per day on average. I think you can actually be less in shape to climb Denali in 20 days comparatively than Rainier in 3, but acclimatization is key to that mountain regardless, where on Rainier it certainly helps but isn't a key factor. I completely agree that four days is nicer than two. Again, kmehrtens (who started this inquiry) was talking about going with a guided service and none of them do a four day program via Camp Muir/DC (the company I work for does it in 3, not 2). All my advice was given in this context. Many of our clients would certainly enjoy a fourth day though... as would I, but I'm just a working stiff, I don't make the schedule.

It certainly wouldn't hurt! I think Adams via the South side is a perfect "warmup" for Rainier for both the altitude and physical aspects. Most people do it in a day, but if you were to camp overnight in the 8-10,000 ft. range - say within a week of climbing Rainier - I think you would see benefits.

I believe he is looking to climb not this summer but in 2011... I wouldn't really worry about sharpening crampons: I climb Rainier 20-30 times a summer and have never felt it to be necessary. He's planning on climbing with a guide service, so who he choses will dictate whether he climbs it in two or three days. RMI does it essentially in 2 with one night at Muir; Alpine Ascents and IMG do it in three, with a day at Muir (10,000 ft.) and an evening at Ingraham Flats (11,000) - that could be an advantage. I don't believe hanging out at Paradise (5,000 ft.) will do too much for acclimatization - it's not high enough. Generally speaking, "high altitude" begins somewhere between 8-10,000 ft. Most people don't have any significant acclimatization issues at Muir - it's mostly a fitness thing up to that point, and once you leave high camp for the summit you should be on top and back down before your body "catches on" to what you're doing. Altitude (at least in regards to mountain sickness) isn't the biggest factor unless you get caught out overnight. Not saying it's easy work up high, but at least on Rainier it's primarily a factor of fitness (training), mastering the efficiency techniques the guides teach you, and mental determination. That said, summit day is a bitch-and-a-half (whether it's a two or three day schedule). Climbing 3-4,000 feet and descending 9,000+ feet in a day has brought many too their knees (literally)!

http://www.buffwear.com/pages/technical/ways-to-wear.php

I guide w/ the Mountain Hardwear South Col pack (I bought it - was not a freebie) and like it - light and expandable but not too big either. Plastic boots are bomber and warm, though lighter insulated single boots will work in the warmer months of July & Aug. Boots are so personal though... make sure you work out the quirks (hot spots, toe bang, shin bang, etc) LONG before you get on Rainier... Highly recommend buying a Buff (or two) - its utility is amazing.

I'm a guide for one of the three concessioner guide services in RNP; considering what you said above I think you would appreciate going on a guided trip. Pros: 1) guides help w/ route finding, skill training, and safety. 2) Training info and equipment advice/rental services for your climb. Cons: 1) having a fixed date/timetable - you take chances with the weather -if it doesn't cooperate, well that's out of our hands. July-Aug generally brings the most stable weather. 2) Partners on guided trips are random and you have no control over their preparedness/fitness level. Not saying they'll sabotage your chances, but it is something to consider if you are a hyper-driven/"summit fever"/type A personality. Good thing you're looking ahead to 2011 - our trips fill up a year ahead!

Bummer, I'm too lazy to duplicate posts - that's the magic of HTML

cross-posting?

Trip: Index Town Wall - Godzilla/Batskins Date: 2/19/2010 Trip Report: Enjoyed the Friday sunshine: TR and pics here.

I agree there's a common tendency to focus on the next season's activity before it's quite time. Never got around to skiing this year myself - been climbing @ Index Dec, Jan & Feb though. Going tomorrow... and every opportunity from here on. ...