armin

Response from MEC: Both the Ferrata 3 Simplex (5001-337, $115.00 CAD) and the Ferrata 3 Ultra (5000-774, $145.00 CAD) Men's Pants are made from Schoeller Dryskin Extreme fabric, which is a blend of 80% nylon for abrasion resistance, 10% spandex for stretch, and 10% polyester for moisture wicking. Both pants feature 2 hand pockets, 1 small thigh pocket, belt loops, and a fly front with snap and zipper. However, the Simplex has a tapered leg, to reduce the amount of flapping material below the knee. The Ultra has a near-straight leg, and features a double seat and double knees for even more wear-resistance, as well as drawcords at the ankles, to restrict the entry of debris into the lower part of the leg.

The Rab jacket includes a hood though. If you buy the Volant with hood you pay 310 US$. But I agree, pretty pricy.

I'm looking for an alround, light downjacket. The Neutrino Endurance from Rab seems to be nice, but hard to get in the US. What are you experiences with jackets from Feathered Friends?

I agree, I would always prefer double over twin ropes. Not much difference in weight, but lots more options.

I have the Edelrid Live Wire dry DOUBLE rope. I think it's 8 mm. I have it for 5 years now and I like it a lot.

Does anybody have those (Ultra or Simplex) and do you like them? What's the difference between the two, they seem to be made of the same material.

...those are a bit smaller though.

Try the Mammut Standard (or Trango lightweight). Always cheap (5.95) and lighter than BD livewire. See Rock and Ice October 04 for comparison.

I used the Trangia stove at 5300 meters and it worked fine. I would use Ethanol (I guess rubbing alcohol is fine) rather than Methanol, which is toxic. To prevent the Ethanol from smoking I dilute it with water so that the final Ethanol concentration is 90%. But when you're travelling you end up buying the local crap-alcohol anyway. Trangia stoves are heavy though, so not the best solution if you wanna travel light.

okay, thanks.

Has anybody been up Sloan Peak lately? Is it still possible to cross the glacier without to much trouble?

We climbed Sahale yesterday and crossed the glacier unroped. It's still easy to skirt around the crevasses, although they are starting to open up.

Hey David, we carried one half rope, and doubled it (=30 m). We simulclimbed most of the route, but for some sections we set up a belay. There are two short exposed sections on the ridge, and then the "crux" (alpinedave gives it a 5.5., was icy for us, but well protectable with runners), which leads to the false summit. We brought a set of nuts, but didn't use it. There are many little horns for runners. Hope that helps. And yes, do bring crampons for the approach to the notch.

I would do Black Peak. We did it two weeks ago. and we had the whole area for ourselves. All you need is a 30 m rope and some slings. Crampons are good for the ascent to the notch where the route starts, but you don't need them for the descent, since the snowfield melted out completely.

1500 mm waterproof coating means that the fabric would be waterproof with a 1500 mm long tube full of water above it. got it?

Thanks for the pic, Crackbolter. How do you approach the gully? From Terror Creek or by traversing from Terror basin?

What's the best way up the Barrier? Beckey says 2000 ft, Jim Nelson 2200, neither one of them looks inviting.

Himmel, Arsch und Zwirn, weiss denn niemand was ueber's Himmelhorn?

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I don't know if that's the Carla/Joan Firey route. It's on the northeats ridge and according to Beckey a 5.5. Did you rappel the route? I heard the anchors are really bad. Thanks for the info though. Armin

I am looking for beta on the northeast ridge of the Chopping Block. Has anybody climbed it recently? What is the best descend route? thanks and cheers

Has anybody beta on the Northeast Ridge of Sperry Peak? We had a look at it yesterday and with the upper half of the mountain being in the fog, we did not have a real idea where the route would go. If anybody has some information about it, please respond. Cheers, Armin.