Mike_G

Climb: Smith Rock-laps on several routes Date of Climb: 4/27/2006 Trip Report: A meager few of us Smith locals have been "bouldering" the past couple of weeks at ye olde pile of tuff in preparation for the upcoming Spring Thing. We've hauled several metric tons of small boulders from a nearby field to the bridge, then from the bridge downstream to piles along the river, then from these piles up to the base of the cliffs, where this weekend they will be used to construct belay stations and rock terraces to prevent terra firma from not being so firma. Come out this weekend and enjoy the company of your fellow Smith climbers from all over the West as we build rock walls and perform other feats of improvement. Just show up on this Sat, May 6th, and be ready for hard work, good food, cheap (or free) gear, and memories to last until next year. Good karma awarded freely, as well. Work starts at 8am on Saturday and last until about 2pm. We provide water, chow, sunscreen, gloves, leadership, and a heckuva lotta rocks already moved to the bases of cliffs. At about 2 o'clock, the sponsor booths, slackline, and silent auction begin up at the barn. At about 6pm, all volunteers get a free taco dinner and drinks, followed by a slideshow, gear raffle and lively auction. See you there! pm me for more info, if needed. Mike Gear Notes: Pickup trucks Four-wheeler with trailer 2 motorized crawler wheelbarrows Gloves Backs Hand tools Small children

Hey folks, Be sure to mark your calendar for the Smith Rock Spring Thing which is coming up this weekend on Saturday, May 6th. We've got some new shtuff planned this year (sponsor booths, part of the auction will be a silent auction, slackline, etc.) and all the classic stuff, too (rocks, fences, weeds, tacos, gear, schwag, raffle, auction, slideshow, etc.) Work starts at 8am on Saturday and last until about 2pm. We provide water, chow, sunscreen, gloves, leadership, and a heckuva lotta rocks already moved to the bases of cliffs. At about 2 o'clock, the sponsor booths, slackline, and silent auction begin up at the barn. At about 6pm, all volunteers get a free taco dinner and drinks, followed by a slideshow, gear raffle and lively auction. Give a little something back to an amazing place, meet other cliimbers, and get some great deals on gear! See you there! pm me for more info, if needed. Mike

Hey folks, Be sure to mark your calendar for the Smith Rock Spring Thing which is coming up this weekend on Saturday, May 6th. We've got some new shtuff planned this year (sponsor booths, part of the auction will be a silent auction, slackline, etc.) and all the classic stuff, too (rocks, fences, weeds, tacos, gear, schwag, raffle, auction, slideshow, etc.) Work starts at 8am on Saturday and last until about 2pm. We provide water, chow, sunscreen, gloves, leadership, and a heckuva lotta rocks already moved to the bases of cliffs. At about 2 o'clock, the sponsor booths, slackline, and silent auction begin up at the barn. At about 6pm, all volunteers get a free taco dinner and drinks, followed by a slideshow, gear raffle and lively auction. Give a little something back to an amazing place, meet other cliimbers, and get some great deals on gear! See you there! pm me for more info, if needed. Mike

The Wallowas are a real hodgepodge of geology, and the Matterhorn is definitely a prime example. When you knock on the rock near the top of the formation it sounds like Walt Disney might suddenly pop his head out of a hatch and invite you inside to check out his new ride. It also feels like rock salt held together with, well, not much. The Eagle Cap has an incredible variety of rock, from Granite to Limestone to Metamorphic. I've only done a bit of scrambling up there on a weeklong backpack, but some of the rock was outstanding, other was pretty junky...

Have you been quoted in a nationally published climbing periodical lately? Not to mention that he's simply a hell of a lot funnier than you. So perhaps we all ought to simply have a good laugh about it and let it go, eh? Then next time you're climbing above someone, keep an eye on whether or not you or your rope are kicking rocks on folks. And Doctor, perhaps we should leave the expletives to those who know him best.

Whoa. Didn't mean to open such a can of worms by reporting the events from below (both what came from the sky and what came from the girlfriend). I now pack my helmet more often at Smith in case of objective or subjective dangers. Let's just all try and be more considerate of our fellow climbers from now on, shall we? Thanks. The Good Doctor has spoken. Long live DFA.

I tried the Zipka a couple years ago, but found that it wasn't as comfortable as the Tikka, and sometimes gets caught in people's hair. Not a problem for me anymore since I cut off the fro after Knight Rider went into reruns. The new Tikka Plus is much better than the Tikka: More solid on/off switch Easier to turn on and off with gloves on 3 brightness levels plus flasher Both of them weigh next to nothing They both use AAA batteries, which are cheap I haven't tried out any of the others in the field except the Black Diamond little bitty one that looks like snake eyes (my daughter's light). Actually weighs nothing, but not very bright and takes an expensive battery. That's my two cents, for what it's worth...

Yes, I believe that 'pinkpoint' is technically correct. But then again, if you don't care, it doesn't matter. Just climb it, enjoy it, and, if you're going to share about it, be honest about what you did. Most likely, no one else will care too deeply anyway. I'd rather say I pinkpointed a route, anyway! Sounds much more manly!

Thanks for the reasonable responses, Cobra Commander dude. I was not trying to denegrate your accomplishment on the route at all, simply giving folks a heads up about the objective dangers they may cause for others in a crowded climbing area. I myself probably wouldn't have thought about it before embarking on the traverse, so I thought it might be a good idea to mention it for future parties. As for the kitty litter sized rocks... yes, dozens of them were that size, but there were several golf ball size rocks as well, one of which missed my wifes head by about 18 inches as she belayed her sister. I think that's significant enough to mention to other climbers, regardless of whether I know you or not, or whether I post rarely or frequently on this message board. Thanks, Mike

Note to future Christian Brother traversers: Perhaps do the traverse on a weekday so you send the nearly constant hail of rocks down on a nearly empty climbing area instead of on dozens of climbers below you. This may also prevent women from describing you as "my stupid-ass boyfriend" when rocks whiz past their heads. Thanks.

No, I hear you, Matt. I didn't mean to imply everyone climbing on Saturday is a deadbeat. Best bet is to fake a french accent, though. "I travel across de ocean to climb here. I sink I weel warm up on... how you say... 'five liter buckets'?"

i am not going to climb. I am going to work. climbing is for another weekend. this weekend is about putting my muscle where my mouth is so to speak Well said, Muffy. Not so kosher to climb while other people build belay stations beneath you. This day is about giving something back and having a good time doing it! Granted, it's only a twelve minute drive for me, but I'd drive a lot further. Hell, some of us have put in several days of moving rocks already! Lifting rocks is a great warm-up for climbing on Sat afternoon and Sunday, too!

I'm bringing my mother.

Definitely worth seeing. Great footage, variety of climbing, and Timmy in his element.

Well, the problem is I have to work. I might be able to get a work schedule that is 12 hours on and 12 hours off for seven days a week, but work every other week. Do you think it would be ridiculous to live in Bend or Redmond and on my work weeks keep a little apartment in Eugene? Sorry, didn't mean to bring up that point. I would find it a bit tiresome (and expensive) maintaining two residences, but I guess it would depend on how well you liked Bend compared to Eugene, if you have a family, etc. Seems like it would make more sense to live where you work and take road trips to central Oregon. Heck, you wouldn't even need to get a place here, you could just camp at the grasslands! Or pay $4 a night and get free showers at the bivouac site...

Here's an idea: Check out Timmy O'Neil and his touring "Return2Sender" film on Friday night in Bend. Then come to the Spring Thing on Saturday. Climb on Saturday afternoon and Sunday. Then go home and call your mother. New stuff: Acoustic guitarists during dinner , and a slide show by Ben Moon before the auction! Be there.

A bit stereotypical, but pretty much right on the button. I'd pick Eugene anyday, although it is a bit wetter. Medford is a fair bit drier, but summers in Medford can suck. I used to work outdoors all around SW Oregon for a few years, and lost a few gallons o' sweat from this little body of mine. As for being 3 hrs from Medford to Smith... Dr. Flash, you must drive like, well, like a Flash! Definitely not 4.5 hrs, though, unless you hit construction or something. Then again, why not just move to central Oregon?

I'm anything but a tradmaster, but I've got the Metolius as well and I've had good success with it. It's comfy and keeps everything well separated.

Ah yes, Koala Rock... the new Morning Glory Wall!

...or a giant litter box full of cat shit that comes off in your hand. I would definitely recommend Jeff Thomas's Oregon High. I think I got mine a few years ago by writing to the Mazamas. Good luck!

Yes, there's plenty of solitude to be had at Smith, but you must venture beyond Morning Glory and the Dihedrals... However, if it's climbing community you want, come to Smith on Saturday, May 7th for the Spring Thing. All Smithies worth their salt will be there. Smith Rock Spring Thing post

True, Timmy and his Magic Laser Pointer would be a hard act to follow. It's looking like Mike Volk will put together his excellent photos-and-videos-from-the-work-day slide show, but we haven't lined anyone else up at this time.

Mark your calendars for the 13th annual Smith Rock Spring Thing: Saturday, May 7th . Join your friends and fellow climbers for a day of hard work to make Smith a better place to climb, hike and habitate! We'll spend the morning and early afternoon of May 7th working on restoration, building, and clean-up projects, then party into the night with a taco (and ) feast, slide show, and the classic auction and raffle. Schwag included. Projects include: Go Dog Go Area - build rock ledges and install stair cases similar to 5-gallon bucket area New Testament Slab Area - build rock ledges and install stair cases similar to 5-gallon bucket area Rope-De-Dope Area - fencing and rehab Shipwreck Wall - build trail to new routes at the top of wall Cocaine Gully - terrace, build rock steps and block open areas between Oxygen and Times Up Aggro Gully - the upper section of the gully from Burl Master to the top needs to be better defined Chalk cleanup and bolt camouflage Camp Host Site / Bivy Area - a couple of hundred feet of fence will be removed Invasive Species Management - remove non-native weeds along river Join the community of climbers, hikers and outdoorspeople that recognize how important Smith Rock is to all of us. Last year we had over 150 volunteers do an estimated $28,000 worth of work and raise over $3000 in funds for this year's projects! Show up at 8am, Saturday, May 7th, at the main parking area. Volunteers receive free parking passes, snacks, bottled water, sunscreen, goodies, work gloves, tools and supplies. They are also invited to the free dinner, slide show and auction at 6pm that evening. We'll see you there! More info: smithrock.com spring thing 2005 or contact Mike Geisen (PM me) or Brian Nelson ( bm41@bendnet.com )

Mark your calendars for the 13th annual Smith Rock Spring Thing: Saturday, May 7th . Join your friends and fellow climbers for a day of hard work to make Smith a better place to climb, hike and habitate! We'll spend the morning and early afternoon of May 7th working on restoration, building, and clean-up projects, then party into the night with a taco (and ) feast, slide show, and the classic auction and raffle. Schwag included. Projects include: Go Dog Go Area - build rock ledges and install stair cases similar to 5-gallon bucket area New Testament Slab Area - build rock ledges and install stair cases similar to 5-gallon bucket area Rope-De-Dope Area - fencing and rehab Shipwreck Wall - build trail to new routes at the top of wall Cocaine Gully - terrace, build rock steps and block open areas between Oxygen and Times Up Aggro Gully - the upper section of the gully from Burl Master to the top needs to be better defined Chalk cleanup and bolt camouflage Camp Host Site / Bivy Area - a couple of hundred feet of fence will be removed Invasive Species Management - remove non-native weeds along river Join the community of climbers, hikers and outdoorspeople that recognize how important Smith Rock is to all of us. Last year we had over 150 volunteers do an estimated $28,000 worth of work and raise over $3000 in funds for this year's projects! Show up at 8am, Saturday, May 7th, at the main parking area. Volunteers receive free parking passes, snacks, bottled water, sunscreen, goodies, work gloves, tools and supplies. They are also invited to the free dinner, slide show and auction at 6pm that evening. We'll see you there! More info: smithrock.com spring thing 2005 or contact Mike Geisen (PM me) or Brian Nelson ( bm41@bendnet.com )

Never heard of this technique. I'm guessing the purpose would be to either 1. clean the oil off your hands, or 2. sanitize them so the next climber doesn't pick up any of your nasty little microbes through contact with a contaminated object (the rock)? The latter sounds like something my obsessive mom would do after being on a route. 'Cept she doesn't climb.