OlegV
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Posts posted by OlegV
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One nice thing about bivying up there is that you're in the Forbidden zone, for which permits are not in high-demand. I think it's not a good idea to go up there intending to bivy without a permit, and a worse idea to proudly put it on the internet.
Did you spend a lot of time at your bivy site waiting for nightfall?
We don't need to know your oppinion
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Strong Work! You might want to keep the permitless camping on the DL. Kelly and Co. check the site often....I think you can self issue after hours for zones outside of BB?
We are now getting into the habbit building bivy sites on route. I don't think rangers check these areas often:
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Boston Basin is a Temple of Light
The world of Rock and Ice
Fire
Morning whisper
Jupiter sky
Forbidden Glacier
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subtract the bivy and you have what sounds like my own experience on that there route - fuck that chossy traverse!
Does it get esier once you on snow?
i can't recall - our bail down the many raps onto the taboo glacier was mostly defined by the huge amount of blood flowing out of my partner's hand after a huge pinnacle of rock had detached from under him, causing him to leap like a demented cat onto a neighboring ridge, shaving his fingers in the process
You mean he lost his fingers!?
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Doing it in wrong conditions is a key. Nicely done!
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subtract the bivy and you have what sounds like my own experience on that there route - fuck that chossy traverse!
Does it get esier once you on snow?
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I keep wondering how hard should I train to write like this distinguished russian climber.
I also hope that some day Oleg would acquire a sleeping bag more substantial than the one from the french hotel he used on the summit of Torment, so that the bear attacks can be avoided
write like this distinguished russian climber. : hahaha, nothing but my oakward English (and russian)
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Enjoyed the TR and pics. Especially the "sunset in the cascades"... Sureal, beckoning, beguilingly beautiful...
Nice work, thanks for sharing.
d
Thanks Doug! The views are surreal indeed! I wish my camera was a little lighter!
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Hey Oleg,
Great photos and an amusing read.
Will be headed up to do the FT Traverse next week hopefully. Just wondering if you can comment on conditions, esp. re: torment approach (SW ridge or face). Did you get a peak at any other parts of the ridge, or the West notch ascent/descent of Forbidden?
Thanks so much!
Drew
Thanks Drew. The Torment approach is pretty straightforward. From the camp sites, traverse the bolder field (no obvious trail), cross the creek and find a weakness in slabby terrains. Once you climbed the slabs, you will be at the base of the glacier. The glacier is easy - there are few small crevasses.
We pretty much followed the south ridge as described on Stephabegg’s website. Be prepared to encounter lots of loose rock on the first pitch (stay in the middle of the gully – involves some 5.2-5.4 climbing on solid rock). The second pitch is good, except the second part of it (the steep ramp) is unprotectable. On the 3rd pitch, start to the left of the belay spot (this start is exposed but easier than going to the right of the belay). The 4th pitch (going around the corner right and up the “scoop”) is weird. You shall see the old pin. Pitch 5 is good. Pitch 6 – the loose traverse to the notch (top of the scoop). From that notch, you will traverse up and over (left) to the summit. You will see two rappel stations (blue slings) on the SE face – this is a direct descend route off the SE face (if you decide to escape for some reason). We had two ropes and it helped to speed things up. You MIGHT need 2 ropes to complete the last repel to the glacier. We did see some intermediate slings on the steep section of the last repel. Also, all rappel stations are positioned pretty much in a single line (no need to traverse around as we mistakenly did).
To get from the notch on the top of the scoop: we simul-climbed attached to the same rope. From the summit of Torment, you can take 3 rappels (I believe) down until you are in level with the notch of the East Ridge. I wouldn’t down-climbed this section – lots of loose rock and potential rock fall. Once you are at the level of the notch, you will see a very clear trail to the notch.
Rock shoes will help!!!
I hope this helps!
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subtract the bivy and you have what sounds like my own experience on that there route - fuck that chossy traverse!
maybe in winter when it is frozen
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God help me, but I'm starting to wonder whether going back and trying the SW face route would be worthwhile!
The descend route was pretty solid. It got some difficult but short sections. One can follow the rap stations all the way to the summit.
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Trip: Mt Torment - The South ridge, the House of Pain
Date: 9/2/2012
Trip Report:
From Merriam-Webster online:
Definition of TORMENT
1) The infliction of torture (as by rack or wheel).
2) Extreme pain or anguish of body or mind: agony.
3) A source of vexation or pain.
Who: Buckaroo, Alpine Tom, YocumRidge, OlegV
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The dream of J-burg:
Below the first pitch:
Nastia on belay:
Oleg at the summit:
Nastia approaching the summit:
A sudden and heavy wakeup call brings him back out of hibernation, triggering a millisecond-long release of adrenalin and involuntary muscle contraction. Rock fall again! Tom wakes up in a short jumping burst; his body is prepared to fight a large sword-tooth tiger. His shaky pedestal gives in causing a butterfly effect sending a shockwave of rock fall. Unevenly shaped blocks tumble down landing an inch away from Nastia’s head protected only by a thin layer of face-warming gaiters. Cry out, woman - scream to the top of your lungs into a cold Cascadian night - no human being will hear your chant.
Buckaroo, a mountain craftsman, constructs a spacious bivy ledge just below the summit ridge on the sloping north side of Mount Torment. Having climbed through the tormented mountain terrains, we opt to spend a night in the surreal world dominated by the captivating views of Eldorado.
We share the last drops of water and discuss the possibility of drinking body fluids and eating the skunk-smelling grass. My “light and fast” air mattress fails at dusk. I am irritated and angry at the modern tourist industry. Mass-produced products are made of sealed garbage bags, compressed aluminum foil, and colorful pillow filling. I would rather harden my body and soul by hauling steel carcasses and by wearing grey but sturdy clothes. I sleep jammed in my old and heavy NF backpack – it helped solidify the harmony of nature with my own self.
Sunset in Cascades:
Eldorado:
Clouds:
Red:
Our bivy:
Veiw from the bivy:
Getting ready for cold night:
Covered in ice:
Tom in the morning:
The morning light doesn’t bring us warmth or the hope for easy survival. Eager to get down the disintegrating mountain, we crawl over the saddle that separates the north and south sides and begin our descent down the south-east face of the Torment.
Down the SE face:
Dodging flying rocks, finding old rappel slings, getting the rope unstuck (thank you to Buckaroo’s bravery and skills), we finally arrive to the last double-rope rappel station just above the glacier. We don’t see the glacier, but we hope it is all over. Yet, the fun has just begun. A giant gaping moat separates the vertical wall of rock and the vertical wall of ice.
Rock wall:
Ice:
Buckaroo takes his time coming down and finally yells: “Put on your crampons and have ice tools ready!!!” I go next; a moment later I discover myself hanging in the midair 30 feet above the sloping void leading to the subglacial river of potentially slow suffer and death. How would it feel to be sucked into this river? The images of being buried alive between the glacier floor and the megaton sheet of ice cross my mind. Drowning in the mountains is rare, but possible. Maybe in the 23d century, some hobbyist-archeologist will find our bones buried in the sand of the North Cascade desert…
I wake up in reality, push of the rock, swing out, and somehow manage to stick my tool into the fluctuating wall of the iceberg. “Got to climb straight up, can you?” – Buckaroo asks. I agree. He belays me of the pickets – I go up and over trying to crash the lip of the crevasse. Buckaroo follows. We set up an anchor at the edge of the moat and design a cleaver strategy to help others cross the moat: once a person repels to the level of the glacier, we would pool the end of the rope and bring a dangling body across the gap of the crevasse. It works like a charm. Nastia and Tom are surprised and slightly cranky, but the nervous trauma of the trip slowly fades away as we progress down the glacier towards the green light and running water. We enter the paradise of the Boston Basin, relax and taste the air. We see our fellow-climbers…
Tom in the end of the fearfest:
Gear Notes:
2 ropes
steel crampons
ice tools
Approach Notes:
dusty
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I wish the WP was 4 hours closer. Nice job, KK!
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Nicely done! Thanks for sharing. It looks like the rock is solid witj lots of friction.
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Thank you for a fine TR and pix! We will use your beta next weekend!
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I disagree Oleg. I think they were right on, at least that is where we went. ..
No Jason, I haven't been up there. I was surprised the guy took a clean 15 ft lead fall on 5.4 terrains.
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I feel your frustration. Nice effort - glad no one got hurt. It does look like you were off route below the rock pitch.
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Congrats, a nice repeat of the 1975 Russian climb!
Modern cams were invented in 1978, so the Russian team probably used the passive gear only. That explain why it took them 22 pitches (instead of 15) to reach the summit.
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Thanks! Please, check your PMs.
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always nice to see trail-runner-climber hybrids on this board. nice job!
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takes lots of balls to do this solo!
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Very nice work, Nastia and Lance! Got to start looking for longer and harder "V-faces"
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[TR] Eldorado - West Arete 9/24/2012
in North Cascades
Posted
Very nice, Jason. You are a good writer. Also, you guys look very fine on that ledge. Those cold nights make you appreciate life and beer taste! Well done!
BTW, Beckey always underestimates his grades