OlegV
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Posts posted by OlegV
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Amazing trip and photos, Lance and Nastia! The rock looks pretty solid to me. You don't even look tired! Got to move to grade VI!
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very nice work. I wish I knew how to aid
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looks nice and loose!
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Congtats Pat and Eric. I like an umbrella shot!
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the best experience yo ucan get in the AK!
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great TR! congrats!!!
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Great job, Aaron!
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glad you guys made it back safe. we saw your red tent from the PR.
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I know it is not a backpacking forum, but maybe it will catch some positive attention. I am taking my sons (17 and 22) to an overnight backpacking trip to the Goat wildness this weekend. They need some good influence to start liking outdoors.
I am looking for a bigger group..
Please shoot me email if interested at:
ovarlamov@yahoo.com
I will provide booze.
oleg
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it was definetlu grade V considering conditions
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looking for a partner for the north face of Mt Columbia, Canadian rockies in august.
ovarlamov@yahoo.com
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I am still trying to figure out if Oleg was calling Anastasia a gypsy AND a witch, ... but seems from the epic summit shot with only 1 lens left in sunglasses that you are still alive Oleg so I guess not...
Nice one!
I got my face in the cake, but we did summit a big baby twice in the last 10 days!
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I am still trying to figure out if Oleg was calling Anastasia a gypsy AND a witch...
Haha, no, not me! I bet Oleg would need to elaborate more to clarify this
! tsyganochka moya, morganochka moya...
Read Russian classic, my friend
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Guys, I am not crazy!!!! Mount Rainier is the place to regain your sanity and escape the world of misery and human lie!!!
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Trip: Liberty Ridge - Erotic Suicide
Date: 6/29/2013
Trip Report:
The mountain almost blinded me because I betrayed two women and was cursed by a gypsy and a witch. They wanted to see me failed or die, but I just laughed at them and left the town. I wanted to solo the Ridge to prove my love to HIM in exchange to MY own immortality. We had each other now and forever. HE loved me unconditionally, leaving me with a sharp taste of blood in my mouth mixed with the feel of fear and extreme exhaustion.
For four hours I follow the climbing birds Tom, Joe and Patrick to the Curtis camp. I suddenly see a mountain queen Nastia sitting at the toe of the Carbon glacier - I am suddenly in a safe company of my friend. I think again, HE doesn’t play a dice, HE violently shifts our future. We live, we climb, or we die, not sure why.
We cross the Carbon bound by a thin rope...
The curse of the woman wasn’t strong enough to kill me. I hear a whipping sound as a solid cube of death hits the ledge, flies toward me, missing my head by an inch. I kiss the Ridge and push on up the mountain. A single push to the Thumb rock makes you tired when you are double-twenty, although there is no such thing as age, as we know it. There is no bad or good either. We are nothing but bio-recycling machines…up to the point when we get hit by a flying rock, fall in the crevasse, or die from a heart attack or overeating.
Patrick’s team is flying up the ridge as if they have invisible wings; we follow, reluctantly observing the approaching avalanche, spitting out the river of ice along the right slope of the ridge. It would kill us all if we lived in the alternative universe.
Finding comfort in the shade of the Willis Wall turns you into a slave of dark angels. They live here, wandering between slopes and ice cliffs, touching and dislodging piles of loose rocks, sticking out their sharp tongues, grimacing. As we try to prove our immortality, they flip a dice and play their games. I wonder where you go when you get chosen by a dark angel. I’d like to be a part of an ice cliff, and I will be, some sunny day…
At the Thumb rock we meet several other teams, love their company and laugh. We leave last at 3 am, following the deep tracks of our comrades. We see their faint headlamps glaring at the far distance. We follow a beautiful ridge line, enjoying easy climbing, bright stars, and the calmness of the night. The Ridge is simple, but the oxygen is sparse. Feeling tired, we get to the top of the snow ramp and rest, consuming liquid REI energy and Safeway leftovers. Our stomachs resist, but we insist on quick digestion and simple sugar for our muscles and brains.
As we get to the bergschrund, Nastia leads the ice pitch. Suddenly, as I follow, my sunglasses break exposing my left eye to a deadly Rainier sun, I drop a piece of pro, feeling irritated and angry at myself. I am still being cursed by a woman. Nastia lowers me into the crevasse to retrieve a piece. We push on…
We are finally standing at the base of the exit ramp looking at the Liberty Cap. Ignoring existing tracks, Nastia leads a steep and rotten pitch of black ice mixed with fresh snow and melting slash. Wet slide is very possible here. I follow, celebrating the arrival of the flat world of the Liberty Cap.
We descend…
Carbon from Curtis ridge:
Liberty Ridge in the morning:
Crossing Carbon:
Joe and friends at the base of the shrund below Thumb rock:
To the Thumb!
At the Thumb rock camp:
Starting up the upper ridge in the morning:
Liberty Gl.:
Pano from 13200':
Crossing the Liberty shrund:
Black ice to the summit ridge:
On the Liberty Cap:
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Options:
Rainier (PR)
Stuart (complete NR)
Dragontail (Backbone)
Jeff park glacier
Shoot me email if interested and have experience. can climb Sat-Sun. Oleg
ovarlamov@yahoo.com
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Bravo!!!!
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Nastia, nice TR! glad we finally nailed this one. We actually climbed/downclimbed 3 routes: Sunshine, Coe icefall and Cathedral ridge. All three routes is an awesome adventure. Nothing easy left on the north side for us do do...
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Great job boys! I envy you.
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Great trip, Nastia! I bet there is ice right across the Bering channel! Now we are ready for Moonflower!
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Looking pretty fresh on the summit Oleg!
d
What helps is getting enough sleep at the parking lot!
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aut viam inveniam aut faciam
I posted some pix of Reid HW:
Yocum
First gate
Looking down
More rime ice
Exit ahead
Summit shot
More pix:
The headwall is in a good condition; once you pass the lower gate the snow gets firmer. Nothing major was falling on my head (I am grateful). It was definetly too warm and too late (7 am) for soloing.
T-lodge-to-summit 5-6 h.
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My old (and new) English is bad, but I feel its beauty between the lines. I once read the translation of William Shakespeare by Boris Pasternak - it has very little resemblance with the English text.
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Don't kill yourself just because someone phone pranked you.
a very good advice indeed... have you seen "The Sacrifice", Fellini? I
[TR] North Cascades - Pickets Traverse-Little Beaver to Sourdough Trail 7/18/2013
in North Cascades
Posted
Nice work fellas!