rhyang

Thanks to all for the replies. We had fantastic weather & a fun trip and didn't have to bail after all. I posted a trip report on climber.org here : http://climber.org/TripReports/2006/1497.html and also Mark looks to have submitted something here : http://mountrainierconditions.blogspot.com/2006/06/kautz-glacier.html

Any thoughts about how the Sunshine route on Mt. Hood is shaping up this year ? Thinking about checking it out in late July / early August ...

It's paved - people ride up there on road bikes during the summer. During the winter & spring there could be storms that could close the road for days at a time until the plows get through, but in theory it's accessible all winter long. Bring chains, shovel, etc. if you're worried.

Spire 2 - lighter than the EV2, separate vestibules, double-wall, two doors, billed as suitable for "winter / mountaineering" use. Thoughts ? Anyone actually seen / used one ?

A couple of us are coming into town in early July to go up the Kautz glacier. Of course we know that the weather on Rainier can go to crap rather quickly. So we are planning to bring our rock shoes and maybe do some cragging (5.7 - 5.10 ought to be fine) in case the forecast looks poor for the Kautz. Any recommendations for Seattle-area cragging on the 7-9th of July ? Spray away

I was there on Sunday. There is still a ton of snow, but the spring was in the process of being dug out and wanded.

In theory sleeping at a higher elevation should make acclimatization easier. But also consider that Helen Lake is windier and colder. The noise of your tent flapping could keep you awake all night. The colder temps in the morning may be enough to keep you from wanting to get up at 2am (or whatever). You could also crash at the trailhead the first night, say after driving up from the valley. That's high enough (for me) to make Shasta a day-trip. Last July we slept at Northgate the first night, went up Hotlum-Bolam Ridge, and then descended Avy Gulch in a day (using a car shuttle). Depends on what kind of shape you're in and whether or not you've been at that altitude before (or recently).

This is exactly how I did it my first time. Drove up from the bay area and hiked into Horse Camp where I slept the first night. Went for a hike up to Hidden Valley and the Shasta - Shastina saddle the second day (nearly 12000'). Then went up Shasta the last day via Avy Gulch. I started at 3am, got to Helen Lake by 5-ish, topped out around 10. The nice thing about Horse Camp vs. Helen Lake is that there will be (a) running water (b) restroom © no/few winds flapping your tent at night (d) relative warmth. While Horse Camp can get noisy during the day it quiets down quickly because most people are doing the same thing you are - going to sleep early for an alpine start. I went up West Face Gully last weekend via Hidden Valley with a small group and found it very pleasant. It's a little stiffer route than Avy Gulch and the x/c navigation into the valley is a little more demanding, but you might like it nonetheless.

I'm thinking of heading up in mid June to give a go at one of the following : - Shuksan via Sulphide glacier - Eldorado via Eldorado glacier I did see the Shuksan TR from April. Any thoughts about this year's snowpack, approach, etc. ? (our original thought was to try Mt. Adams via the Adams Glacier, but it sounds like this year the approach would be murder in mid June)

Someone asked a question, and I answered. As for the five pages of drivel, well that's what happens when people are bored at work I won't deny that the climbing itself was fun. I also won't rehash a lot of what else went on in public. If you want details, feel free to PM me. I will make an effort to respond, but not until Feb. 6th, when I get back in town. Like a lot of people, I have climbing partners whom I will continue to climb with. If you wish to draw conclusions based on the trip reports I have written for climber.org, then feel free. I would agree with you. I certainly won't be dwelling on any of this over the next several days.

Perhaps this? oh, that ain't the half of it. I'm not saying 'don't go to Rainier with this guy'. Maybe you should, and maybe you shouldn't. Use your own judgment. But I will say this - most of us know one or two people who seem like they have a few wires that aren't connected properly (so to speak). Would you climb with such a person a second time ?

There's a reason why nobody in California but his girlfriend wants to climb with this guy ... have fun dudes.

Be sure you know what you are getting into with this guy. I will never climb a technical route with David Valdes / SnowBall again. Ever.

Where would one get replacement picks for Cassin tools in the USA ? Finding regular online sales for BD / Petzl / Grivel picks is not too difficult.

No need to get upset. Anyway, sounds like they perform great in your living room. What is the boot size again, and what size are your feet ? One of my climbing partners may soon be needing new boots. Do you find that your toes or heels are especially wide / narrow ? That kind of info is also important to know with boots. Let us know how warm they are and how they walk later on, if you could

Just curious to know if you mean Mountain Tools instead of Mountain Gear ...

Nice shot ! How did the floor hold up on the rock, or did you use a footprint of some kind ? I've also been wondering about getting a gear loft, or just making my own. The model I have is the 2004, and I can't quite figure out where the gear loft clips would sit on the inside ...

Well in theory we should be able to make lots of money selling stuff to China. I know two people already who spend a lot of time over there doing just that. Time to put on our entepreneur hats I guess and get global ...

I think it was about twenty-something dollars ... just an annoyance really, considering that the sum total of the purchase was over five hundred. Still, I wish I'd known about it up front.

the label on my EV2 says "Made in Taiwan, sewn in China"

Sure, but what would have happened to the guy if he had been using regular leashes ? Or had pro in that dagger ?

Acquisition of personal property is just the right thing to do - good for the economy ! What are you, some kind of communist ?

The sabretooths were what I learned on .. climbed in them out of crevasses and a multipitch ice gully on Shasta. I used them on some softer early / late season waterfall ice in Lee Vining. I had to learn to adjust the toebail in the holes so that the secondary points protruded a bit more to get better support. Then I used them on my first ice lead last August in the Sierra on a couloir (lots of snow and soft ice). They have sentimental value

sorry, I just knew this thread would be funny. But on the subject of crampons - Petzl dart & dartwin fronts w/leverlock rears (cragging) Grivel G14's (alpine ice) BD sabretooths (ole black step-ins)

By request. Spray away Mine: 1 pair aztars: for soft and/or low-angle alpine stuff 1 pair quarks: for steep cragging btw I haven't started doing any serious mixed or dry-tooling yet. Which tools would be better for that kind of stuff ? I do have quatro picks for the aztars. Wasn't sure if I should bother for the quarks.