Hanger

Hi Bill, This was this past Sunday between 11:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. We rapped in near Toothpick Wall (off a tree using webbing and biners as a TR). Having only been there a few times with ~T (who says "hi" by the way), I wasn't 100% sure where we were until we got down. From there, we worked our way over to Silver Bullet Bluff. That's where the draws from another team were stolen off the chains an hour or so earlier. The missing hangers I'm referring to are on Gunsmoke and Bite the Bullet. Having just moved up here a few months ago, I have no idea how long they've been gone. I'm considering having some signs put up, warning other climbers of the hazards and gear theft that goes on there. The folks that I spoke with had no idea. I'm very tempted to go gear thief hunting. I'll have to see if I have some time over these next few weekends. Kelly could have filed charges against those throwing rocks/ etc. (My partner and I did against some idiots who were throwing beer bottles down into Owen’s River Gorge a few years ago after we asked them to stop. At that height with the weight of the bottles and the possibility of injury or death…the charges are very serious.) Regards, Rob

Had some biners and webbing of my own snagged today (Used as a TR...walked back around to get it and it was gone) ...as well, another group of climbers had some QD's on chains yanked while they were working another route. Seems to me someone is walking along the top lurking and stealing. Keep your eyes peeled folks. (lots of hangers missing as well...bolts aren't chopped...just stripped of the hangers...what's up with that?)

/peaks around corner... stiiiiiillllll lookin'!

The fact is...first ones to the route get dibs. Hell, they can stay there all day if they want. Many areas have "classic" routes. These are NOT the routes to gang rope. I've known folks who have flown all the way across the US to climb certain routes at J-Tree in SoCal...just to find a boyscout troop sitting at the base with ropes going in every direction. I've also seen folks practicing aid on a 5 star 5.8 with several teams backed up waiting for them to finish. That's total BS in my opinion...but with that said, they were the first ones there. I still think it's bad form.

Free after 5 M-W&F...free after 1 on Thurs...also avail Tues a.m. before noon For Broughton, I'm free before noon M-W&F (means early start) -Robert

We have the Nallo3-Gt...guided out with snowshoes, ice axes, and trekking poles (total setup time, including clearing snow and stomping out a 'pad', was 5-10 minutes)...it held up with barely a rattle in 40+ mph winds. Between the Stephenson and Hilleberg, I'd go with the Hilleberg (obviously) Good luck! :-)

lol...too funny! I tend to make friends with just about everyone so it's no big to me. I'm in that "in between stage". I've been climbing far too long to be considered a "noob"...but don't climb hard enough to be considered a rockjock... Which means, I can spin my tall tales of sketchy trad leads on manky pro at Josh...none of which are over 10c...and my near sport onsites of 11d's (sandbagged or not, I didn't rate 'em) So I climb my 10's...and work my 11's...and flail on V3's...in the end, it's ALL 5.FUN (wanna talk aboubt 'clicky'...try climbing at rockcreation in LA...LOL!!)

SoCal trnzplnt here... Josh can be climbed year round, you climb in the mornings and later afternoons...hang out in town or the shade when it gets too hot and drink tons of water. Tahquitz/Williamson/Malibu/Big Bear are great summer/fall areas. (The last 3 being primarily sport) Without knowing your skill level, here are a few of my favorites. From the South Face: Left Ski Track 5.6** (3-pitches) West Face: Jensen's Jaunt 5.6* (4-pitches) Coffin Nail 5.8** (1-pitch, connect to Jensen's Jaunt or tie it into Traitor Horn 5.8+**) Fingertrip 5.7 ***** Classic (5 Pitches) Fingertip Traverse 5.3 ***(5 Pitches) Angel's Fright 5.5 ** (5 Pitches) These should keep you busy for a few days. If you want/ need more beta feel free to PM me. The friction decent is about class 3/4 and can be tricky to find. Don't be too "macho" to ask if you're not sure. Same with overall routefinding. Many people have gotten in way over their heads here. If in doubt, ask around. If you're there on a weekend, the rock will be humming with climbers by 10 a.m. The schlog to the base of the rock is no joke. It's a steep-ass hill...but it's well worth it IMO. If you'd like route suggestions for any other SoCal climbing area, just ask -Hanger

PRG is stylin for sure...tons of lead routes (BYOR, bring your own rope)...huge bouldering area...good times for those wet days in the land of Port

Relative noob...but need to get some ice time in...if you're up...I'm in -Robert