alexbaker

My advice: Reread mtnfreaks post. it is good, and right. Dont tie in short while using a mini traxion for solo top rope. most likely you will have the rope weighted or even tensioned, and tying in short will require you to haul that extra weight with you. Option two is to not weight rope, in order to tie in short periodically. Thats fine, but if you climb as bad as me, good luck tying a knot mid climb. Also, it is a pain in the ass at the beginning when there is no weight on the rope, and just after subsequent tie ins. With that said, i have used this on toprope many a time, and so have many other people. I think it is becoming common practice, and therefore safe. right???... mtn freak: was this one a proper post? i am learning from you.

Glad to see you learned how to post... Anyway, although you guys are mostly liars, jackasses, assholes, "punter bitches" and what not, i still laugh my ass off, even at my own expense. Spray on dickheads.

Yikes. Scorpions eh? And snakes? Those things are scary, man. On that note, anyone else gonna be there in march?

Sweet. Thanks a bunch. Any ideas what temps/crowds are like in march?

hhmmmm. looks like i eat my words eh? well, thanks for clearing that up for me. you guys are fucking mean.

yes, please post!

how do you know bachar is backing him? did you talk to bachar?

Post info for the masses!! Good routes? Good bolts? One rope? Camping?

aconcagua- not much skill required, just shitloads of ambition and determination.

Awesome!! I was looking for beta on aid routes for sure. That 18 page write up might be overkill, however. NOLSE have you climbed these aid routes? If so i might have to keep peskering you for information. I would go find out myself, but i am quite a drive from smith, and dont expect to be there for a week or two.

Hmmm. It seems like everytime i ask someone about this wall i get a funny look and little grin, followed by mumbling. Interesting... Still no beta however.

5 easy peices eh? i dont have access to a guidebook here, would you care to enlighten me?

thanks a bunch, ill get ahold of him asap. anyone else have info on this wall?

Any of you wankers climbed that? Im looking for some beta into any and all of the "established" aid routes up the main face. I assume all possibilities have been climbed on this wall. Is this true?

ya, check your pms, or email me

Im looking to grab a ride to smith on either saturday morning or or friday afternoon. Anyone interested in saving a little gas money let me know. jabaker@pdx.edu

1. Might as well. There is a gully that you might cross before the upper ridge that i think has great avalanche potential. I say might because it depends on the route you take. If you stay on the ridge as best as possible, dangers will be minimized, but certainly not eliminated. 2. Depends on how comfy you are. the ridge can be nicely exposed at times, and sometimes steep enough that self arrest is not practical, depending on conditions. Not overly technical though, so if you are confident in your step i think a rope may be extra weight. Oh, about quest 1. If you are camping where i think you are (just below the ridge proper on the east side), there can be avy danger getting there, especially if you head right up the gully. 3. time, depends on how fast you are. given recent snow, plan on a long day. 4. i have no idea 5. Glissading the gulch might be nice, but keep in mind "avalanche" gulch. Decending the ridge might not be that bad, Ive decended the lower half and after you already have steps in this is very straightforward. Good luck youve checked climbingmountshasta.com right?

Looking for a ride (2 people) to smith rock this weekend. We live in portland, could leave friday afternoon and return sunday sometime. Contact me if interested. jabaker@pdx.edu

I am looking into climbing one of the northern ridges on Mt. Adams this weekend. (Northwest R, North Ridge, or Lava ridge). Just looking for some good info on any/all of these routes. If you have been there or have any good advice on these routes let me know. Also, if anybody had any idea what kind of snow pack to expect let me know. thanks a bunch

When are you looking to go? 2 days? South Route I assume? Let me know some details of what you want the climb to be like...

I need info from anybody who has been up the kautz lately. Mainly, is the approach chute at to the left of the Nisqually melted out? If it is how have you been gaining the slopes to high camp? Also, is there any water ice forming in the main chute that would make technical crampons and/or ice screws necessary? Any helpful info is appreciated, if it sounds favorable i am going to try to head up there this weekend. Thanks a bunch.

I am looking to head to Mt. ADams for some skiing this weekend. Anybody been up there on a pair of boards lately? How is the snow? Sun cups? Also, how steep are the SW chutes? Ive heard anywhere from 35 to 45 degrees. Obviously, there is a big difference here. How is the approach (cold springs) looking. Is there a decent trail? Any help is appreciated. happy trails.

The people i will be with are avid rock climbers and skiers, however they have no experince in the backountry except for some extensive summer backpacking trips. All would be comfortable on fairly steep snow, but due to inexperience any route requiring ropetravel is out of the question. I am really looking for some good ridge routes, as none of these people have avalanche training either. Here is what i had in mind: Approaching from green lakes, climbing broken top, then continuing on to camp at chambers lakes the next night. From there the N or NW ridge of South sister looks appealing, as does the SE ridge of middle sister. Anybody been there lately? Any thoughts? Thanks for all your help.

Cloud peak is sweet non-technical ascent in the bighorns. Just a big slog from.. marion lake is it? there is also bomber mountain- it is just a hour long hike but there is an old superfortress up there that is pretty cool to check out. Also, as far as no-technical goes mt. mitchell in the cirque of towers is amazing. again, just a hike but the views are priceless.

I am planning an ascent of middle and south sister next week, approaching from pole creek. Anybody have advice on route selection? I will be climbing with beginners, but all are very fit capable people. thanks, hopefully i will have a good trip report with pics when im finished!