esugi

Looking for a partner to go ice climbing in CDN rockies this weekend. Short notice. I live in Seattle area. Would like to fly into Calgary Friday, climb Saturday and part of Sunday and fly back Sunday night. Would like to rent a 4x4 and head over to the Ghost River. Also perhaps hit Canmore area. Flight cost is minimal (I work for an airline) but you'll need a passport and your own gear. If interested, e-mail me for more info. Eiji

we need a partner for Rainier climb via Kautz Glacier route. Leaving early Sunday morning (7/17) and returning Monday evening (7/18). Experience on glacier travel and crevasse rescue preferred. E-mail me at eiji.sugi@alaskaair.com or call my cell 253-315-4287.

Hey Richard, are you still looking to get out this Sunday? I have kitchen pass from my wife and would love to do a one day push (perhaps overnight at TH) around Cascade River Road area. But I'm open to anything. I have plenty of glacier experience if that's important to you. Eiji (eiji.sugi@alaskaair.com)

Great pics Chad and Oleg. Would have liked to join you guys but I had a fun outing of my own, Southwest Couloir of South Early Winter Spire. It was fun and I will post a TR as soon as I figure out how to put pictures inside the post. How do I do this?? Chad - hope I can climb with you soon (from our e-mail conversations).

Anybody out there want to do Leuthold Couloir on Hood this Saturday and Sunday (open to other suggestions as well, just not HogsBack). The weather looks awesome. If not Hood, I'm open to other suggestions...within reasonable driving distance from Seattle. Maybe Eldorado? I don't have too much experience in technical alpine snow/ice but plenty glacier travel. Been idle since coming back from climbing in Ecuador last month so I'm chomping at the bits to get out! Contact me at 253-315-4287 or Eiji.Sugi@alaskaair.com Thanks

I've been to Orizaba twice (one successful summit) and climbed Izta back in February of this year. We did the Ayoloco Glacier on Izta so we stayed at Hotel San Carlos in Amecameca. About the only hotel in the area. Its adequate with bed but no hot water. I don't think you'll find much in Tlalmanalco or San Rafael. Most of these are small towns and not set for tourists or even climbers. I don't know much about directa el pecho (?) but can that be accessed from Paso de Cortez and La Joya? You can also stay at the microwave station passed Paso de Cortez, on the way to La Joya. We stayed with Reyes in Tlachichuca, both times. Price may be a little more but its about the surest thing with breakfast, dinner, white gas, transportation, etc. They're family has been guiding that mountain for nearly a century! Others I can't remember but can find info through www.summitpost.com. Yes, Popo is closed. It routinely releases gas still. No overboots needed. My entire team used plastics with great results. Remember, Orizaba is considered high altitude climbing and it could get cold if the wind is particularly strong on the summit day. We turned back in 2003 due to high winds (gusting to 60 mph). Tent vs hut...hummm...personal preference I guess. We tented it my first time. Hated it because the area gets so dusty. I was blowing dust out of my nose for several days. Also our tent got flattened by the wind night before summit day. We stayed at the big hut this year. Didn't particularly like that either. Although it was fun talking to the mexican, german, british climbers...good times sharing stories. We did get walken up by rude locals who came in around 10pm. We were getting up at midnight so you might guess, I was pissed off. Have fun and check out www.summitpost.com

Thanks Chelle, yes that is a lot of climbing in 14 days but Guagua is a short hike and Norte is a short scramble. They almost don't count but its good for accli. We'll be sure to try the food (can't wait!) and will be checking out local markets. We also plan to hit Banos and Riobamba. Maybe squeeze in Otavalo if we have time.

Looking for partner(s) for 14 days of climbing in Ecuador this January. Itinerary includes Guagua Pichincha, Illiniza Norte, Illiniza Sur, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo. E-mail me if interested: eiji.sugi@alaskaair.com My climbing resume can be found on summitpost.com "esugi"

Thanks for the responses. I've also read some reports on forest service web site and I guess there's been so much snow melt that it has exposed glacial ice underneath. I don't have aluminum crampons so I'll just take my steel grivels. I am taking a bivy instead of a tent and minimal clothes - though gore looks like a necessity since rain is likely Saturday evening. I'll send a TR upon my return.

We're shooting for one day ascent of Eldorado via East Ridge. To minimize my pack weight, I'm thinking of things that could be left behind. With the weather being so warm during the day, are crampons really needed? I did Sahale in late June and didn't need them at all. I just talked to a person at NCNP personnel and she said some are reporting very icy conditions on the glacier? Any truth to this? Thanks

Great, thanks for the info. What JoshK said "E ridge...reasonable climb any time of year" was the info I was looking for. With that info and what DPS said about snow all year around on summit ridge where most photos are taken, it should be a go for us in mid August.

Anyone done Eldorado East Ridge in late season? I'm curious what kind of condition the summit ridge would be in Mid-August to September. Snow mostly gone exposing some rocks? Any info would be great! Thanks

I was there on the 12th of July. I would stick to the trail (not to Hannegan Camp). Like RUSTYKNEES said, once you get to the pass, head right. You'll first gain a few feet of elevation and then drop down into a meadow. From the meadow, follow the steep and muddy climbers trail at the base of the subsidiary rock peak. There's two ways to the summit from the glacier. One is to traverse to the west to a small notch between Ruth and the little peak next to it. From the notch, head up to the summit (about 300 vertical feet?). Another way is to just head straight up the glacier, close to the big black rock outcrop. This way is much more direct and is recommended. We did see two small crevasses off of the route. We did rope up on ascent but not on descent. Since its been more then two weeks since, I imagine the more crevasses have opened up. If interested, check out my trip report and pics on summitpost: http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/trip_report.pl?trip_report_id=1309&mountain_id=851 Have fun!

Being the one to experience 3 additional miles just to get to Cascade Pass trailhead (from near milepost 20) back in June (Sahale climb), this is great news.

Awesome, congrats Gary_Yngve, How were the overall conditions? Soft snow through the first and second pitches?

fleblebleb the closure due to the road washout? Can you get around them easily or is the road completely washed out? Any beta on this would be appreciated. Any boot tracks visible from previous climbers? Thanks bunch.

Anybody been up Sahale Peak lately via Sahale Arm/Sahale Glacier?? Or anybody been in that area lately? What's the snow line right now? We're heading up there on Monday for one day ascent (actually driving to the trailhead and sleeping in the car Sunday night so we can head out early on Monday). Looks like we're finally getting some good weather! About time. My last 3 climbs (Shasta, Hood, Pinnacle Peak) has been in snow storms so I hope Sahale climb will be in beautiful weather. Thanks

Thanks for all the reply. This gives me a good understanding of where the rope is. So I guess the second tool is not really needed (?) I only got one reply on this question but that's the direction I'm leaning.... We're also entertaining the idea of a carry over and coming down DC. That'll be a heavy summit pack! Is the whether ever going to clear up for more then just one day? Its June, enough is enough....give us sunshine!

New member here posting for the first time. My friends and I are interested in doing the kautz route. I have read previous threads here and summitpost and even read Mike Gauthier's description of the route in his book. Here I want to pose few questions. 1) In late June, do you typically recommend a second tool for the first and second pitch just after scurting around the ice cliff? 2) Does anyone have a picture or accurate description of this permanent rappell rope, supposedly fixed against the rock wall, some distance below the ice cliff (to avoid going through the bowling alley on return)? 3) We can't leave until late afternoon on Saturday. Our plan is to hike in Saturday afternoon, spend 1 night somewhere before Nisqually glacier (drop down from Panorama Point), spend next night at the bivy sites below icefall, and go for the summit early on 3rd day. Does this plan seem feasible? Any insight would be helpful Thanks!