Jump to content

MCash

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    590

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by MCash

    Suggested Routes at Vantage

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    The sport climbs on Sunshine Wall are the absolute worst routes I have ever climbed. It's basically a wall with a bunch of notches chipped out. Like climbing a ladder. It's worse than the gym because atleast the gym varies its holds, these are all flat jugs. Boring.

     

    I like Vantage's trad climbs. The chipped out holds and stemming rests make it possible to lead harder cracks than I normally could. They also add variety to the climbing.

     

    That being said I think the lower cliffs offer some pretty nice face routes.

    Suggested Routes at Vantage

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Catbird, Disaster factor takes a couple of long slings (for the chockstones) then smaller than tips to finger size above there. It's great fun too, if yer into that sort of thing. Cheers.
    I finally led Disaster Factor. I placed a Camalot 4.5 below the first chockstone, then slung that, and pulled the Camalot, I placed a #4 Bigbro about halfway between chockstones. Finally, I chickened out and placed a big nut in the crack to the right before squeezing into the crack below the big second chockstone and hauling up onto it, what I thought was the hardest move. I didn't bother to sling it because once on top of if you have a nice little crack that takes all sorts of nuts. I placed the big camalot up under the leaning slab to protect the exit move. I think this route can be led with no big gear at all if you are willing to use that crack to the right.

     

    Looking cozy in there.

     

    DF3CC.jpg

    The Importance Of Restful Climbs

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    There's some shortish gently overhung off hand sized crack up above the snow creek parking lot, been awhile but I recall it coming in two sections, with a horizontal break. You can get an inobvious total rest by laying down in the horizontal break, discovered by a friend who has held the title of The Prince of Prone for his propensity to lie down whenever possible.

     

    That's La Cucaracha (10d).

    CLEANUP AT FRENCHMAN COULEE!!

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Thanks for picking up all of the trash Craig, the placed looked great. The new metal signs we replaced are near Agathla Tower and at the top of the hill where you break off the go to the gullies on the right. We also reinforced the gulley #3 sign.

     

    We need some more metal signs:

     

    1. At the exit to the chimney saying Sunshine Wall right, and Riverview Park Wall left.

    2. Gulley #2

    3. Gulley #3

    4. One where the trail forks between the M&M Wall area and Sunshine Wall.

     

    Maybe we can work on this later this year. Who made those signs? Can we get some more made?

×
×
  • Create New...