MCash
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Posts posted by MCash
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a nice sideshow where you can climb new repetitious cracks when you get sick of the old repetitious cracks of the gorge at smith.
oh what have we here? another crack AND another arete slapping 11d next to it? great!
either way, nice troll! there's
Oh well, it sure as hell beats skiing.
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According to a ranger a week ago, it was unpassable due to huge moat.
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The parts of that site that started as local climbing areas are VERY good. For example, the contents of ClimbingBoulder.com, ClimbingRedRocks.com, ClimbingJoshuaTree.com, etc.
Many of the new areas like Washington and British Columbia have so little information and consensus, that they are hardly worth reading.
Just my 2 cents.
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What a pile!
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I wonder if Tom Cruise will still try for the summit if he can just pay a couple million and get a chopper ride to the top.
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That looks fun....what is that?
That's Plum Pudding. 10a according to the Cummins guide and 5.9 according to Sky Valley Rock. A 4 star pitch, bring a bunch of small camming units, doubles at a minimum.
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Nice, fun spot up there with no crowds. Plum Pudding is a fantastic route!
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Sounds fun. How hard is that Boving Roof traverse pitch?
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Yeah, that "crux corner" is only 5.9 for about 15 feet then 5.7 for the rest of the pitch. The flakes pitch below it is the highlight of the route and felt harder to me too.
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Awesome job Dan and Blake! Great pictures.
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Nice job you guys. I though Macbeth was an excellent route, really fun.
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Nice work Jason and cool pics. When I tried that route 2 years ago, the trail was easy to follow. Kind of a bummer that it no longer exists on that long steep section. The route was plenty adventurous before, I don't think it needs a bushwack too. (Just my opinion)
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Some more X-Dome stoke.
BWR on pitch #5 of the West Buttress.
Dark Rhythm Pitch #3 flake traverse.
Mattp just above the sweet tips crack on pitch 5 of Dark Rhythm.
Mattp tearing up the 10c crux pitch on Dark Rhythm. This pitch is really fun with some wild sidepulling off the corner.
Rappin off the relentless 10b slab pitch on Rainman after getting spanked. I think this was pitch 4.
Gary Y. and partner on Jacob's Ladder.
Wish I could join you guys on Wednesday.
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I tried that direct start but couldn't even do the moves on TR.
Agreed, GM pitch 3 feels harder than HOC P3 to the first ledge.
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Very nice Tazz. Excellent photos, as usual.
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Yeah, that P3 of GM is fun. I like wide cracks. The upper part protects well with #4 friends or #4 C4s.
BWR leading the starting squeeze (a #6 friend protects this).
The HOC pitch #3 has got to be the softest grade at Index. 10a or b on the topo, then 11a? More like 5.8 then 5.10b (on an Index scale).
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Friday night - hosted a dinner party.
Saturday - Soltice Festival, dinner out, then drinking.
Sunday - Grilled with friends.
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1. Tokamak fusion power plants are impossible.
2. Self adhering self sealing polyethylene reinforced rubberized asphalt sheet has ethylene, propylene, dyenes, and monomers in it.
3. AMD will be bankrupt in 1 year.
4. We will never colonize another star due to the effects of solar radiation.
5. The NIF is the biggest waste of funds ever conceived by human kind.
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There are some photos of the new crags on "Peter Puget"'s website, Rad. I didn't see any specific beta on how to get up there though. I assume that is what he is talking about.
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I was there today and it rained all day. We got in 3 pitches before we were soaked. The best part of the day was the seafood burrito and the margarita in town.
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Great info Marko, thanks. Why does the Jetboil canister in the Pocket Rocket work faster? Higher pressure in those?
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We followed the description in the guidebook exactly, our routefinding skills are good. The guidebook specifically mentions 2 rappels and we found obvious anchors with lots of webbing on them for the raps. The route is exactly as it is shown in the new Olympic guidebbok, only the rock is awful.
I think the Olympics are a nice range of peaks with some good class 3 scrambling, nice glaciers, and beautiful rainforrests, but I can't say I'll be back for more technical climbing.
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Trip: Mount Chossington - Chosseast Ridge
Date: 6/2/2007
Trip Report:
After climbing the Winter Direct route on Washington earlier this year, Sergio Verdina and I came up with this bright idea. Let's come back and do the Southeast Ridge route. It sure looks nice from afar following a sharp arete then up and over many gendarmes to reach the summit. This route had been recommended by Olympicmtnboy and is featured in the rockclimbing section of the new Olympics guidebook.
So Bruce, Sergio, and I met up in Federal Way and drove over there this past Saturday. The approach follows the steep climbers path for route 2 in the guidebook before hitting the base of the lower ridge. We followed the path until it deadended in a low 5th pitch of kitty litter rock well below the actual start. I lead up this then we had to traverse a snow slope around to the right to get to the actual start. It was low angle but had a big dropoff below.
We made it up to the start and I saw a bolt above that matched the description. I lead up the first pitch which was rated 5.6 and had some decent rock and pro. Sergio and Bruce following it...
The next pitch was steeper 5.7 and the rock turned to crap with chunks falling off when you grabbed them. I had to test each hand and foothold before weighting them. This pitch was also runout with about 70 feet between placements in 1 spot.
Hoping it would improve, we continued on. The next 5 pitches consisted of 4th to low 5th class choss rock with almost no protection. On one pitch there was only 1 micronut placement on a 200 foot pitch. Also, one of the belays was semihanging with 2 equalized micronuts in a chossy crack. The best part was dodging all of the rockfall caused by your partner even touching the rock.
After 7 pitches we topped out on a tower than climbed 2 pitches of crap rock and scree to get to the first rappel station. After rapping about 80 feet into the notch, we climbed out the other side for a few more pitches of 4th to low 5th on horrible rock. My $200 Mammut rope took 2 core shots from all of falling debris. We reach the second rappel station and rapped into the second notch. 3 more pitches of 4th to low 5th garbage rock brought us to the top of another tower. The guidebook talks about some 5th class downclimbing to reach the 3rd notch, but we wanted no part of that. We down belayed than rapped before climbing 1 more pitch (5.7 no pro) to reach easier ground and the standard scramble route.
Looking down the ridge, we nicknamed it Endless Choss.
Sergio on the summit.
Finally getting to the summit and still being alive was quite a relief. III 5.7X, 14 pitches. If you are looking to kill yourself, destroy your rope, maim your partners with rockfall, and generally just have a bad day in the mountains, I highly recommend this climb.
Gear Notes:
Cams, nuts, rope, ice axe.
Approach Notes:
Trail deadends in choss towers.
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Cle Elum is pretty cool. Better weather, no hideous fucking traffic, close to tons of climbing. Just a little over an hour to Seattle for some great culture. Less yuppie rat race B.S., etc.
Spokane is nice, especially the South Hill. Lots of cragging minutes from downtown, not an hour or 2. Good culture. Centrally located to lots of climbing stuff.
bchs
in Central/Eastern Washington
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Rating? Is it perfect hands? #2 width?
Looks cool, like a harder version of Royal Flush maybe.