MCash
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Posts posted by MCash
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Anyone up for this Wednesday or Thursday after work? The forecast is looking good so far.
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The North Face of Ratney is accessible via Lower Statlu Lake, so, yes, access is good. I have no idea on StoneRabbit.
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This does not affect Chehalis Access as far as I can tell. That road was already washed out with no plans for it to be fixed. The way in now is via Mystery Creek with doesn't go near the lake. The Mystery Creek way was nice and smooth last year, you could do it a normal 2wd car with low clearance.
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Nice work Rad! Cool pics.
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Fun Forrest (Exit 47), on the far right crag are two overhanging thin cracks. One is 11b and the other is 12b if I remember correctly. We hopped on the 11b one, it was quite good. Maybe 10 to 15 degrees overhanging and leaning to the left. Jambs varied from fingers to thin hands. Make sure you tape up first, some crystals in the crack. The 12b one is friggen hard, neither of us could even do the entry move. I forgot the names, one of them is called Clash City Crack I believe.
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Trees are your friend.
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Pumpline 11b, leavenworth
It's 11a and not overhanging. That one move at the top doesn't count.
How about Carnival Crack, overhanging 10D offwidth.
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Went to Peshastin for the first time in over 4 years this past Saturday. Had a really great time. The weather was perfect and the climbing a lot of fun. We did some crack lines and TRed some 5.10 face / slab pitches. It's too bad you couldn't lead these (almost no pro). The routes there are pretty unique and a nice change of pace.
Thanks for the great TR and pics and inspiring me to go back.
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I climbed Go-Cat-Go a few months ago with a buddy who had not been climbing since February due to an injury. He led it just fine, on gear. I followed it and found it to be an enjoyable climb. Yes, there is a bit of a run out section. This is true of many crack climbs. Seeing these climbs bolted down to a lower level is very disappointing. Put a PG or an R rating next to the route name (not that the climb in question deserves either) and call it good. Leave it up to the next perspective leader to make the call as to whether or not he/she will lead the climb.
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Marty Bland's new FA?
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I won't touch the route until I hear back from Jim.
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Nice job. Good writeup and sweet photos.
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Who endowed him with such divine ethical standards?
My standards are hardly divine. I am simply against the precedent of placing bolts next to protectable cracks. Nothing more.
Bottom line: Yoder, creator of routes at the cliffs that you all climb on.
Absolutlely. I love everything he's done. I contacted him directly regarding this issue. Let's see wht he has to say.
Martin Cash, bottom feeder, critic. Contribution to climbing in WA state; zero.Not true. I've done crag cleanup efforts, trail maintenance, helped with route development, rescrubbed routes, helped teach classes, and provided tons of beta and photos on climbing.
Let's keep to the topic at hand - Go Cat Go at Vantage.
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Just because I don't spend most of my waking hours spraying all over this site does not mean I am not educated or don't have opinions. My tough guy comments were directed toward your immediate need to chop the bolts some "retard" put up because You don't like them. It is still perfectly climbable whether you clip or plug for protection... nothing has been "ruined".
I am interested to hear what the evil bolters have to say.
By that misguided mentality, then maybe we should bolt every crack climb out there. Bolting crack climbs is WRONG, nothing you say will change that fact.
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1. I have climbed the route.
2. This has NOTHING to do with being a tough guy or manly. You really don't understand the term "climbing ethics" do you? Please educate yourself regarding the topic first.
I will contact Jim and find out what is up. I like the route and don't want to see it ruined. Is that so bad?
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Umm, Martin.... My big, black, friend who just got out of prison for sodomizing and killing the last guy that chopped his route put those in. Be warned cause Tiny loves terrorizing little white men such as yourself.
Whatever Marty. You don't intimidate me one bit, in person or over the internet. You don't even trad climb, so what would you know about ethics anyways.
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So you're condoning bolting a crack climb? WTF.
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If you want it back PM me with how it is marked. Top of pitch #4.
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That first pitch of Daylight (I assume you mean the first two half-pitches?) is one of the best 5.8 pitches in Darrington, in my opinion.
Agreed. I love that one. BWR following it.
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Drove to Darrington via the Loop this morning. The road is in great shape and they did a nice job with the slope stabilization.
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Woohoo!
Darrington on Sunday.
Low 50's, hazy sunshine.
It WAS beautiful today. What formation were you on? We were on X-Dome.
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That is silly. The upper crack takes perfect gear.
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Yeah, there are some good looking alpine rock routes in RMNP. The cragging and iceclimbing is good too. There are just too many negatives that detract from it though.
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Boulder is a great place to live if you like stuck up, anal retentive, yuppie types that only give a shit about how much money they have compared to their neighbors (the competition). For alpine climbing, you have Colorado's fabulous Front Range which features class 1 hiking trails through choss and scree to the top of those big "mountains". Then you get to hear nice stories at coctail parties about how good a climber someone is because of how many 14ers they have sent (how many trails they have hiked). How about solitude like in many parts of the Cascades? You'll find ZERO any place near Boulder. Glacier Climbing? Haha, that's a good one!
I guess it is also pretty important to find an affordable place to live. Make sure you bring your million dollar bank account if you're moving to Boulder, you'll need it.
FS: Raveltik Demon Super Cup Ice Tools
in The Yard Sale
Posted
Raveltik Demon Super Cup Ice Tools for sale, the 2004 edition. Used for 5 years. They climb water ice very well. Almost identical in feel and weight balance to a Charlet Moser Quark. In good condition, paid $260 ,asking $100. PM me if interested.