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beaconben

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Everything posted by beaconben

  1. of course free climbing is the best and what we usually do when we go climbing. the point is that your going to want to climb a route that you can't free. I say climb it. the most pathetic thing in climbing is the dude that says "I am saving that route until I can onsight it", then never climbs the route
  2. I read about half of this thread and I get so mad at myself for waisting my time reading all of this hot air. So here is some more. Do you think the Nose was climbed in less than 3 hrs or the Zodiac in less than two by not pulling on gear or other aid and french free techniques. Yeah this is the ice forum, climbing is climbing. what do you care what style other poeple climb in anyway. we are all climbing for some intangible reason, fun or adventure or whatever it is. considering your sense of style of ascent is not one of mine. Warren Harding said something like this about the Early Morning Light-It was a grand piece of rock and I wanted very much to climb it. And didn't Robbins put up The Prow Somebody on this thread said you won't get better unless you practice pure free climbing techniques. You might find the opposite to be true. Expand your horisons.
  3. I sent them an email. anyone join me. where and when are the monthly park meetings
  4. HOLY SHIT DAVID. What a bag. Is that the same guy you did lost arrow spire with. BTW, my brother got in some good climbing in Rio, especially for a non climber. Thanks for the tips
  5. simon weaver and 2 other guys did the 3 sisters, broken top and bachelor in less than 24 hrs a few years back
  6. good to know. snibble is an awesome route. what do you all do after the great 5.9 corner pitch up high.
  7. Hey Bill, thats a pretty good likeness. you'll are in for a treat
  8. wow david. another great tripp. glad to hear you got so much done
  9. is that psychic wound your talking about. I was looking at that second pitch dihedral. it looks pretty intense for the first 15 or 20 ft off the belay, like small beaks or rurps
  10. 4565 posts. Kevbone you crack me up.
  11. Leaving for Yosemite May 14. Returning about May 23. Hoping to split the gas with someone one or both ways. PM or call. Ben 503-464-6548
  12. As far as El Cap goes, you could probably talk me into doing any route. I would probably chicken out of leading A4 pitches. How about a one day on Zodiac, if its fixed up that is. How about South Seas. I have always wanted to do Tangerine Trip too.
  13. Hey Tradclimbguy, have you done the steck salathe. how bout some beta an the approach, wideness, and descent. The climb seems to be getting done alot more than it was ten years ago. Whats up Kev. When are we taking the kids to Smith.
  14. Looking to do any El Cap route and/or Steck Salathe. I want to spend a week in the valley any time between May 28 to June 16.
  15. Hood this Saturday. If the conditions are right I would like to do any interesting route. 503-464-6548 or pm
  16. why did this guy corey get a ticket. was it for driving on 84 while closed or was it for climbing. i was bouldering in the oneonta parking lot a few summers back and a park person told me climbing is illegal in the gorge. did anyone climb in the gorge this last freeze. i drove through sunday. it looked too thin for me.
  17. I am sure its too warm but wondering if anyone's checking it out.
  18. BillA, thanks for the report and the photo. I think that is called black diamond in the pdx book. It looks so sick. Has it seen an ascent. Looked scary on sunday. Too wet. probably easiest to come in from the right on frozen moss.
  19. need a partner for wednesday. pretty open as far as what climbs to do. cell 503-464-6548
  20. can anybody climb in the gorge wednesday. i'm going. give me a call 503-464-6548
  21. so you guys aren't psyched? how bout zodiac.
  22. i guess i forgot to mention that i'm looking for a partner.
  23. I have talked to several parties who have done the nose in a day. it seems to be much more doable than most people realize. i've bivied on it before and would love to skip the camping part and get right to the climbing part. leading in blocks with some short-fixing. the second jumars.
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