syklone

Anybody down for tomorrow night, or Tuesday(evening or day time)? I've got work off, and am reallllyyy looking to get out and climb something. Beacon, Broughtons, RB, in order of preference. I follow up to mid 10's, not much leading experiance, but not afraid of it either. Troy

Thanks for the info, kind of like what I expected. It will definitely be a bit of a test.

Any thoughts on how the T-Line trail looks right now? I'm taking my non-climber girlfriend for 3 days on Monday, and am just wondering how much snow (and possibly bitching) to expect. I'd say that the south side should be clear in most places, with some patches on the north side? But I'm just talking out of my ass. Any one been up that way recently? Troy

The car is located above and climbers left of Bite the Bullet, and its just the firewall, so no seats for lounging. Too bad, it'd be cool to belay from a comfy seat. Bill: I'm all for rebolting those shitty rusty things that seem to liter the place. I'd even throw down some good old fashioned cash to buy good SS stuff. As long as its existing stuff that is being upgraded, I don't think that people should have any problem with the new gear, I hope. Just a general rant on bolts at rocky though: All this chopping that goes on just seems to stop any improvements. People are now forced to stop, ask questions, get opinions and whatnot before they replace a 1/4 thats older than me? WTF? That just straight up safety common sense. I was soloing Blueberry Jam on Monday, and when I was rapping over the edge to find anchors to rig a TR, I saw the thickest fucking bolts ever. They had been chopped. Must have been 5/8 or 3/4. They were HUGE. I saw why they were chopped too. An OLD pin and semi-good 3/8 blot were below and to the left a few feet, as listed in the Olsen Guide. These huge bolts would have made rigging a TR easier from above, and replaced crappier gear nearby. I dont get it. I ended up rigging on the bolt and pin, with a loonnggg cordlette to a tree nearby to back things up. Somebody tried to make the anchor more SAFE, and instead the bolts were chopped in favor of what? Tradition? Sorry thats just plain BS. If you want to argue that putting extra bolts on an existing route is bad ethics, fine do that. There is some merit there. But anchors are there to be solid, and they need replaced over time with better, safer gear. If the FA put in 1/4's you wouldn't replace it with 1/4's, would you? And if there is a pin that's going to pop one of these days, put in a new set of anchors that will last 50 years. John: I'd be all for participating in the brush clearing fun times. I've actually grown fond of the damn place in the past few months.

I can make it today, or Wednesday if its not raining. Otherwise, I'll be at the Circuit. Yes, it was raining last week. And yes, I felt very hardcore, especially epicing 5.7. Not really, but it was close.

Petzl Shunt?

Send it Bill! If the rain holds off, I'll be out at Rocky roped soloing. Maybe down by Phalynx. Feel free to hit me up if anyone else is coming out. Black Audi, blue top rope. Troy

Bill: I think a note to the PBC is a good idea. If anything, it will let them know that there are serious safety issues around the cliffs, and that students hanging out there(especially drinking) are putting themselves at risk. I think a shorter letter would get your point across better though. If I may be so bold as to edit it down a bit, I'll do that. Climbing tomorrow? I hear broughtons after 3 with Ivan. I'm down for that. Troy

Great time last night guys! Check out the note in the Oregon pages about the suspect boulder next to that lady's house. LINK

Last night while waiting for the peeps to show up at the Butte, a lady pulled up and asked if I climbed there often. Anyway, she lives in the house furthest east above the cliffs, and said that she had seen a large boulder slowly moving closer to the cliff edge next to her house. Now, I havn't climbed that far down on the cliffs to know route names that might be affected, but she said she has seen a guy out there quite regularly who times himself doing laps on a route underneth the suspect boulder. She was really quite nice, and was just concerned about safety, and not about climbers walking through her flower garden to get to anchors or anything. I forgot her name, Jean, Jane, or something like that. I said I would let people know, and maybe take a good look at it to see if it needs to go over the edge if it is a real safety threat, and its not just her house that is slowly going over the edge. So if anyone climbs near there regularly, take a look at the thing and post if you think it needs to go, and we can organize a trundeling party or something. Also watch for loose holds out there too. I pulled out a shoebox sized rock on the Silver Bullet bluff last night.

I'll be there tomorrow (Wed) too. My stupid hand is all recovered so its time to get outside again. I'll be at Rocky by 5, with an extra rope and slings. Troy

You are right about the visas and SSN's. Want a new one? $60, Woodburn OR. Hell I could even direct you to the correct block. Every illegal I know (5 off hand) has forged papers. As an employer, when you send in SSN's to the Feds, and it comes up bad, the resoponse from them is along the lines of "this number is not correct. Please give us more information if you have it." End of story. Do employers know that certain people are illegal? No doubt. But what is the real problem here then? Taking jobs from Americans? Nope, they don't want to work at Taco Bell past age 17. Getting gov benifits without paying taxes? Thats the biggest lie out there right now. Illegals with bad SSN's pay Social Security that is NEVER collected. EVER. They are helping to shore up a faltering system(not to get in to a discussion of SS) They pay taxes. Sales tax, excise tax, alcohol tax, cigarette tax, income tax (not much if you claim 10 dependants at the fed level, but some gets withheld at the state) The point is, they add significantly to the economy. And, any one who knows economics should realize that for the US to support the number of illegals that we do, we must also have that number of excess jobs too. Market economics. If I could get illegals to work for me at half the cost of legit Americans, no shit I would go that route. The Americans that do the types of jobs that most illegals do arn't worth shit for wages.

The code doesn't say anything it only being applicable in wintertime. Read it again. It only says that to park in the desiganated area you need the permit. According to the wording that you quoted, they can ticket you for not having the pass in July if they want, as long as it is designated a winter recreation area.

Getting into Cuba is not hard at all. You can get flights from Mexico City, and from major Canadian hubs. The Cubans love American money, so they really want you to come. They don't even stamp your passport, so there isn't really any trouble there either. I've really wanted to go for the past few years, but just never enough time...

You prefer them to be fat channel surfers instead?

This is some funny shit. Epaulettes, lmao!!!

I thought vista bridge too at first, but it doesnt seem to offer enough vertical rock. The bridge is off of burnside, go left onto vista, instead of right onto 23rd. That takes you over the top. The road under leads to an on ramp for 26. Follow the max line.

Sounds great John! Your hard work does not go unnoticed! I'm more than happy to help develope the new area in any way I can. I'll be in touch.

Sloppy seconds?

I'll be there around 5, I hope. Wednesday would be better, but if it's going down on Tues, I'll be there

dont forget the used condoms

There was nothing dry about tonight, but it couldn't have been better for my first time drytooling. Rocky was in fine condition. Someone could make a killing on anti-mud plates for the 'pons, that much is needed. Thanks peeps.

Hell yes they sold quickly, and to ME. Thanks Jason, perfect tools!!

MINE! PM SENT

A wet rocky butte reminds me too much of a wet dog. Hopefully it will clear up next wek then.