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Andrew Rennie on Sloe Children. Index, WA.

Crampons will not stop you if you slide. They will break your ankles however and, if you're new with crampons, you should really have an axe along in case you stumble. Warm spring snow is nothing but a nightmare with crampons anyway, as snow balling-up underfoot can make them downright dangerous, or at best, a total pain in the ass. You can find REALLY light aluminum axes that are basically made for self-arrest only ( http://www.camp-usa.com/products/ice-axes/corsa.asp ) and weigh just over 7 oz. For relatively easy access to good sliding terrain, I'd head up to Pan Point above Paradise. Great run-out, good pitch, and you can go as high as you like. This face does slide occasionally, but that's all I'll say about that. The same high-traffic that makes it generally packed enough to slide on, also makes it "generally" safe avy-wise. I'll reiterate though - it can slide. Finding something steep enough to slide on in a ski resort from the base would be, I think, problematic. And bumpy. I used to guide kids in the Rockies and rather than suit up a 12 yo. with pointy things, we'd practice self-arrest by kicking feet and dragging elbows with your arse high in the air, which is actually really effective in soft snow. FOTH should have that in there as well. Good luck!

That pretty much says it all. Good discussion of the the options though.

That's so rad! I see those lines on the upper right of the Nisqually every year and have never had the motivation. They look way better than I'd imagined for s-facing volcano ice. Way to get after it!!

I had the same experience on Loose Lady when I did it. I scared to poop out of me. More like Wicked Wanda. I guess that's why ice is so darn cool.

Hey - A disclaimer that I work for MSR, but even though this wasn't the far superior Reactor (!!!), these stoves do burn hot and the tilt in your set-up, I'm pretty sure, was the culprit. The damage is consistent with running a dry pot. Though you had snow in it, if you don't start with water and then add snow *slowly* (ensuring that water is not fully absorbed into the snow) you're essentially running a dry pot and that heat is not being absorbed by the pot's contents efficiently enough to prevent damage to the pot. Because of the concentration of heat with such stoves, there's little forgiveness in such situations. Bummer if that's the case, but at least now you can upgrade :-)

I think mono's make/let you climb better. No leveraging out/off secondary points on dime edges or ice features. After climbing on monos for over-well, a long time-it's hard to argue against the benefit of pulling a fluid drop knee or hip rotation of a svelte mono. And on crappy ice, stepping into your pick holes is a priceless bene that has saved many a climb from collapsing. In wet, crappy snow I kick harder to engage secondary points and the I-beam construction of most monos today seems just fine for my 150 lbs. On leashes, I've dropped (knocked out) a tool with old-school lockers mid-crux pitch on Louise Falls while placing a screw and had androids mysteriously come unclipped at the top of climbs while dangling them. Most notorious was at the top of the Coleman headwall-there's still a nice cobra in some crack up there. You can always drop tools if not careful. Switching up hands when there is only one good placement and you're pumped silly - priceless. I don't agree that you need to be in better shape either. You just need to change your style to accommodate the advantages provided by climbing unleashed. It still freaks me out at times, but I'm always blown away at the top of a climb how often I switched-up tools, de-pumped with ease, and paced pro way faster. I'd probably wimp out and bring my old cobras on big or remote climbs, but I probably won't be saying that for much longer.

Yeah - what they said. Inspiring guys, and some rare, stunning shots. Where's the link???

yikes - not sure, but I wonder if that v-thread is kosher. Seems it would have to be horizontal to evenly distribute forces, no? I've never seen nor made one vertically in my...well, let's just say a long time :-) Looks like a great day in der Leavenvert. Good show.

Even better idea...keep going out anywhere in the hills outside of Conway until you know what works for you. Try to get to Tuckerman's and back in a day. Essentially no avy danger if you stay out of the basin and you'll learn way more there than from someone's list here. Be like everyone else and bring way too much the first time and dial it in from there. You'll learn a ton that way and you'll know what all this stuff weighs after that too. With that said, the basics never change - wicking base layer, Marmot Windshirt (mandatory :-)then insulation to suit the temps (Patagucci Puffball Vest or Nano Puff? 200wt Fleece?), then a hard shell/soft shell, then a big-ass, put-a-nail-in-it down or synth parka. A little less overall for the legs. Figure out your system based on your metabolism and activity level. If you go out and get cold, you need more. Boots are a whole other discussion based on activity and length of stay up there. Don't forget the goggles up there. Priceless. Good shops back east: IME in Conway, The Mountaineer in Keene Valley, NY, OGE in Burlington... Anywhere but EMS:-)

http://www.erraticrock.com/ These guys rock.

Sweet ticks in an awesome place. Well done. I miss RMNP!!!

Went up to Der Leavenworth yesterday. No ice to speak of in Mountaineers Creek - assuming we found was I think were the proper walls. Surprisingly dry all around. The two routes that formed last year on Dog Dome however are shaping up well. The Litter Box is on the left and climbs a cleft that is a summer rock route. It went yesterday at 3+ with a thin top out. Used a #1 and .75 Camalot and left a pin up high (and one in the snow down below) to protect the exit to the anchors. The Cat's Meow - a mixed affair on the right - felt like M5-6 WI4 (?) last year but looks a bit thinner - though climbable - with, of course, a scary top out. My partner and I broke a hard-fought trail (1.5 hours to the climb!!) in there so someone ought to take advantage of it before it's buried again. Snowshoes are mandatory, as is a mystery cable crossing...bring your largest HMS-style 'biner and make it one you don't mind retiring as the cable can rough them up if you go fast. A 1" (?)pulley would be the bomb.

...but if you read up on self-rescue methodologies (escaping a belay) and recently adopted standards of the AMGA, this is the least desireable method of belaying a second. Worth looking into. In summary though, there are at least "a few" common situations that all dictate a best method of belaying. Experience and lots of attention to the seemingly constant evolution of "the best" way to do things is always good.

Someone was just flown off of Adams last week doing it. Seems like a great idea.