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Posts posted by letsroll
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Wait there is other beer than PBR?
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figure you would say, drill baby drill
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I didnt finish the gates because for some lame reason my crampons dont fit super tightly to my boots. I have the flicklock ones and they dont lock all the way because of the walk feature of my boots. I had only one "tool" (BD Venom) and my glacier ax; but it was the crampon issue that kept me off of them
There was also a group from Northern Idaho college or something up there, so they might have been the ones in the mega team. Not sure though.
I brought all of the gear one would need for a rescue/ team travel. So I had a 30m rope, pickets/ screws and what else one carries for that stuff. I figured that if for some reason I had to bail out of a weird spot that I would just rap out, so if shite hit the fan for somebody else I would not be completely useless in helping out.
Get those crampons jerry rigged asap. Good thinking on taking gear for getting out or helping others. I would have just been very conservative with the idea what I go up I have to down climb and taken no extra gear.
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nice trip. looks like future trip. Thanks for the porn
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It is rated 11.a and he is calling it "just for kicks".
Bolter might say, he/she bolted it "just for kicks"
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For the record I am not a route setter. Not qualified to be a bolter, don't really want to deal with it. Very happy to climb routes that are put up.
Saying that ego is part of bitching about some one bolting the route you though of is right and why not. It should be. He put in the work, he should have the right to bold it. He should be the first to climb it. Now if he bolted it and did not indicate it was a project that is another story. How would some one know it had yet to be climbed. I also ass-u-me that this route was not sitting idle for any length of time, lets say over several months.
It would be nice to hear from the offenders but I doubt they will chime in. Both sides of the story sort of thing.
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Average person is walking/hiking. Not running. Average person takes gear and is not ultralite. I would venture to say that average person goes between 2-4 miles per hour on a trail any faster you would be pratically running. That is not including the "off" trail scrambling speed and altitude. Average person will take breaks.
Thayer headwall wallowing will take much longer. So 2.5 hrs longer is not a suprise. Heck wallowing on any route will take longer.
Speaking as an average person 7 hrs does not sound off at all. Climbing with average people 7 hrs does not sound off at all. Knowing average people 7 hrs does not sound off all.
But what ever, my average may not be the same as you, but I be my average is more average :kisss:
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powderhound,
How many times have you used it. Interesting idea/site.
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What is really sad is that we are not suprised. And why should it get worse? That is about as bad as it gets, not sure what would be worse.
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what ever, I do it every time. When I want to push it I do it in 2.5 hrs.
In my sleep...lol
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That Eureka looks like a fairly good tent. I had a huge Walrus tent that was not really made for mountain storms but I got away with using it in the Coast Range a couple of times before, on the third trip there, it blew up in a storm. Fortunately we had been flown in for that trip and had other tents to cram into for the rest of the time.
It was nice to have a big tent so five or six guys could fit in one, and if you divide the weight by the number of people who fit inside, these big heavy tents don't end up weighing more per person than many of the two man tents people use in the mountains.
But no matter how you divide it up the body of the tent weights more and the fly weighs more. Some one is hoofin it around.
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If money was not issue big and bomber
I have been looking at this and I could actually use it on a climb. Have not pulled the trigger cause my current car tent is still rockin.
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I like it. I am going to try that out next time. Great solution.
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I have been using a 5 mill tag line as a single rap rope. Works great but can be a cluster if you don't manage. Like to knot is self up real good.
When taging with larger diameter in the alpine it won't matter where the knot is, it will travel. Minimize this by letting out more of the skinnier rope than the fatter one as you rap. You will not prevent rope creep but it will help. If rapping off chains put the knot on the skinny side every time and the know will stop the creep.
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Nice work my man. YOu did not finish the gates because you did not have tools? or cause you did not have a belay?
23 lbs? WTF, maybe when you started with water,but not after.
Gawd I hope it was not Mazamas. Sure they may take 10 up, but on one rope team seems like a bit much.
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if the thread must die, thanks for resurecting it again.
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"So, yeah, If you did not drink 100 beers on Friday, you might have had some fun.... ( See, I only drank 7, and ate breakfast at 0330, and had fun)"
wow a little passive agressive, I think some one needs a hug... 8D
LOL..
I was kicking my own ass this morning
You will never guess what I am doing right now
I will throw one down for you gettin-er done.
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Oh and yeah, today I must have seen 15-20 different people coming down the mountain riding plastic childrens sleds. WTF? I have never seen that many people before doing the sled thing. I blame a TR posted on CC.com for this.
So how was the snow up there?
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well getting up there was a bust. Too much drinkie on friday night. I suck, but it was good times
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Learning to lead go find a good route at least 5.6. Do this a few times realizzze you are scared of your placements till you go aiding on top roped to find out that you may know your buisness or not. Then figure out it would have been nicer to just start aiding to learn the gear.
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I am sorry I don't associate with riffraff spitboarders:laf:
see you up there.
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Screw that I am headed to the north side. North side gullies, heck ya, that is where it is going to be. South side suckas...lol.
Yo maine-iac. I think I headed up saturday day only, play around on the south side and stay away from anything steep. Testing out the knee. Bright green soft shell, black pants on skis. Very hard to miss me, it would be good to meet you.
CC party on south side
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lucky and very glad it worked out ok.
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Sofa surfing in Bend?
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
cool. Saving that web site for the future.