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letsroll

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Posts posted by letsroll

  1. First of all, there is no reason to have daisy chains hanging from your harness while sport climbing.

    Unless you are lazy and are mostly a trad climber.

     

    why would a trad (free) climber have daisy chains on? Unless you are lazy and mostly a aiding while free climber.

    Or you think for yourself and do what works for you.

     

    Yes it works for me :cool:

     

    So you would take up a sling and a locker. I will take up a daisy and a locker. Weight basically same. But I can adjust the length to a better change over stance. As a trad climber yes I can tie into the anchor with the rope but I am lazy and don't want to deal with adjusting the knot every time I move around while bringing up second or belaying the leader (multi with bolted anchors).

     

    But what ever works for you. Daisy for me = easy to use, less time, less to screw up, and virtually no weight penalty. Then again I have been known to climb with a helmet on :)

     

     

  2. how about clip in with a daisy chain or better yet two and rap off so you don't wear out the ends of the chains. Unless you feel like you want to donate some time and $$ to replace those chains.

     

    Also having the daisy chains already on your harness before you leave the ground is that there is one less thing to screw up, and one less thing to do while you are up there so less turn around time.

  3. I totally agree. That shit is fucked and if I got to the Hogsback and saw that I'd have lunch and turn my ass around. No fucking reason people can't climb the gullies climber's right of the main chute. Fucking Mazamas and their goddam rope teams of 80.

     

    Right cause ALL those people up there are Mazamas. Not one person up there is on thier own. They ALL are on a Mazama climb. Go sit on a dick.

  4. Get a smaller belay device!! That will help a lot!! I have rapped 8 mill with a reversino and had no issues, good friction.

     

    I have rapped several times using 5 mil static line with the reversino full weight and it was ok, really had to hold onto rope and use glove. But no special figuring was needed.

  5. jeez whats up with you elitists? can't fat people have climbing gear too?

     

    I guess tall skinny people don't exist either, yet alone climb. Though I am doing my best to put on weight :chebit::brew:

  6. Whenever I read all you gear snobs make fun of certain gear companies it really drives home to me what a bunch of pussies modern day climbers are. In the old days, guys were summiting in leather and canvas and women in skirts. When I was first starting to climb I used a Coleman sleep pad, a $25 tent, an Eddie Bauer backpack, and a department store coat because I couldn't afford anything better. It's great that gear has come so far, but I'm so tired of the elitist attitude as if you should be embarrassed if you can't afford a Feathered Friends or Patagonia. You whiners that wouldn't dream of climbing without the comforts of the newest, most expensive gear are the ones that should be embarrassed. Oh, and by the way, down is down regardless of the brand name.

     

    Stop Johndavidjring this thread.. ass wipe

  7. Don't get me wrong it is not percieved weakness scare me. Right now it is lack of strenth and ballzzz. Just need to get out more. I was making good headway last year and intend to get a lot better this year. Got a couple I tried last year and this year will get them clean. I am not afraid to hang dog it :)

  8. Thanks for keeping us posted. I can't wait to get out there. Love that place even if I can only climb 5 routes there.

    which 5 perchance? i bet there are more you can do, especially if you're willing to relax your sense of style a bit :)

     

    Well if have not sold out to aidin:crazy: yet if that is what you were getting to ;)

     

    But never say never

  9. Bent wires are to be used the same way bent solid gates are used. For setting up an anchor you can use them. For bolted anchors lockers on bolts is better, well that is what I like. But tons-o-people use sport draws for anchors, just make sure that the biners are opposite.

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