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Zach

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Everything posted by Zach

  1. Nice report and pics. Hey Brian. My foots broken! How'd the other pics still come out? Email them to me when you get a chance. especially the one of me breaking my foot.
  2. Oops just saw a pic of the N Face route. crummy.
  3. Juan, it's definately doable. I just got back from another trip. Let me know if you can do it a different day. Zach
  4. Would like to do Dome or Sinister, Buckner, or whatever. I can go fast and am available all week starting tomorrow. I have a car but only until Monday. Zach
  5. TRANGO! the light one. cheap light small
  6. That's the one. Let me know when you have the time.
  7. Looking for a partner to do a traverse of Sawtooth ridge sometime this summer. I have weekends off.
  8. Dan took pictures I'll post them as soon as I get copies. Can you post video in the gallery?
  9. A friend Dan and I climbed Mt. Constance last weekend by a combination of routes. We approached from the S fork of tunnel creek. We had bluebird skies on Sunday and a full moon on Saturday night. Some of the traversing sections were scary on the way down. They were covered in slushy snow that had melted out quickly when the sun hit it. We climbed a one pitch variation of the finger traverse on the way back. It was around 60-75 feet of 5.7 on decent rock, no protection though, but that didn't matter as we didn't have a rope anyway. Dan dropped his axe descending from the summit block. Luckily it landed on a ledge 25 feet down and he was able to downclimb and get it and then crawl through a tunnel to a downward sloping ledge from which he was able to regain the ridge crest. It didn't look too fun. This is a long approach. You have to gain and loose close to 2000 feet before you actually get to the mountain not including the trail to tunnel creek shelter. Does anyone have any information on the North fork approach? It looks like it may be easier especially in early season or winter.
  10. The weekend of the third you could drive to within 4-5 miles of the Ingalls Creek trailhead. You could get farther if you had a burly 4WD. There was more than a foot of snow on the road after that.
  11. Keynose biners are really good for use on daisy chains or anything else you clip and unclip from slings frequently. Also for racking lots of nuts on a single biner. They don't seem to make much of a difference to me when clipping bolts or other pro. The heliums have a huge nose though. I think it is a better design for standard gate biners. I've heard that the ball on the DMM keylock wiregates can do bad things when the biner is whipping around in a fall. Just hearsay though I haven't actually heard of any accidents caused by them. As for favorite I would vote for the Superfly. It's light and big enough to make it easier to use than the neutrino.
  12. I have one like the GSI. It works well but if you are carrying it into the backcountry you will need to bring a lot of beans. It uses about as much to make one shot as you would use to make a cup or two with a french press or drip filter. That Italian thing is a percolator. I'd recomend one of those plastic cone filter holders that sit on top of your cup. You can get them at the grocery store for two dollars. Or if you want to go really light you can just just put the grounds in one of your socks and drop it in boiling water. That will give you cup of joe on the same level as the folgers bags.
  13. It's an interesting idea especially sitting in Seattle with the wiew of the eastern Olympics. But I don't think it would be nearly as aesthetic as it appears. You'd definately need support for the swim across the sound from a boat you could actually get into if anything went wrong. And once you get to the penninsula you'd have a loooong hike along highways most of the way there. You don't need much gear for the Brothers though just an axe and boots. I've done it in my underwear.
  14. most of lower wall was dry. the first part of godzilla was a little wet. upper wall looked relatively dry from the store except for the waterfall, which was wet.
  15. The story happened thusly...We were climbing on the N Face and had just reached the top of the exit gully to the snow bowl when I looked down and noticed I was only wearing one crampon. Which was strange because I distinctly remembered wearing two for most of the morning. I downclimbed to the end of our ropes searching for it and found nothing. We bailed from there figuring the crampon was lost and not wanting to have to try to get down in the dark without it. What had happened was that when I had readjusted the crampons for my plastic boots I had unwittingly reversed the heel peices. So the D rings for the straps ended up on the inside instead of the outside allowing them to rub on my legs and detatch themselves. Then, I'm not really sure how, but one of the bails must have popped off. I had actually noticed that the straps were reversed when I put them on that morning. Unfortunately I didn't have a wrench and screwdriver with me to fix them. I guess the 9 grams or so I had saved by replacing the quick adjusters with bolts didn't really pay off this time. I was pretty pissed but restrained myself from burning any stumps back at the lake.
  16. That's mine! PM Sent
  17. I don't think I can make it down there this weekend. I'll send you a PM if anything changes.
  18. Looking for a partner to get out on sunday or Monday. I can leave Saturday night. I'm up for anything.
  19. I'm in Seattle
  20. I'm going to be heading to Peru in June and I'm looking for climbing partners now. Planning on leaving Seattle at the end of May and coming back the first week or two of July. I'm lso looking for partners around Washington. I usually have Sundays and Mondays off and am up for anything from snow slogs to technical climbs in shitty conditions. I can be flexible with days off if there is a good weather window and a good route to be done.
  21. Zach

    ice 18-21

    I have a car and those days off. PM's don't seem to be working drop me a line. zwoehr at gmail dot com or call 206 669 6728
  22. I have these two days off and the weather looks good. At least on Wednesday. Does anyone want to go climb something? Email me at zachness at comcast dot net.
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