pat_o

Way to get on it lads! Booze, strippers, beautiful ice and a new fangled digi camera to record it all, but hasn't Al learned yet to relieve himself BEFORE he leaves the ground!

Michael..... I believe your situation truely calls for a dog! Constant companion, confidant and a hell of a trail runner. Depending on breed of course. All of your complex issues and wanting can be realized in a four legged friend. Just imagine having very attentive ears following your every jesticulation and whine as you reherse one of your diatribes before presenting it here! Portland Humane Society: (503)285-7722 Pat O'

Yes Juan...I certainly felt it was steeper. I didn't have an inclinometer(?) in August 3 years ago, but I was suprised by the angle. I did the good 'ol "axe plumb bob" drop nearing the top and it seemed to be @ 50+ degree. I felt it was a bigger face than Nelson let onto. By the way it was one of my favorite routes of the past five years! Pat O'

Skinny rope doubled would be perfect! I climbed this route from Rainy Pass a couple of years ago with two partners, one 50m rope and very light rack. We simul climbed in 1,000 ft leads never pitching out. I wore Garmont Towers while my two partners wore running shoes. I was happy, they were happy though a bit sore at the ankles due to the long "crampon" descent from Goode/Stormking Col. No ice gear period. Super light axe. No Pickets. But be damn sure not to forget the whiskey! It's a great outing!

marylou....graupel nailed it. I'm responding because I'm bored and I love the Northern Pickets. If you are heading to Luna Cirque I'm guessing you have a real objective other than sunbathing at Luna Lake. Chances are this objective will be more technically difficult than anything on the way there. Only thing is,, your are two days from your car. My only recommendation is that you seriously study the topos for the area.....reallly closely... In any event you will be a much better mountaineer by the end of the trip than you are right now, whether you ever see Luna Cirque or not. Oh ya, you can also get there up Access Creek and avoid mawing glacier ice!....GO FOR IT!!!

Well......did you two spoon at the bivi?.....yes or no? I'm not jealous!!!

Constructive and informed criticism of a slide show we all payed good coin for is a healthy thing. Given Waynes climbing prowess I see many more shows in the future. I for one was there to be inspired and to support a friend and swill multiple beers. Yes Wayne, there were moments that I too cringed at what I heard as self aggrandizing on your part. I knew you would catch shit for it and for this you should be more self aware when lecturing or posting. We don't all know you!Having partnered with Wayne on a number of significant routes (to me), I can only attest to his sheer joy and compatability as a partner. I have excelled on climbs with him, where his enthusiasm & drive seemed to float us thru crux, crap and grind not to mention the stellar parts. As far as stashing gear in the wilderness i.e. Picketts, I'm pretty damn sure Wayne would have sent his mother up there by summers end if he couldn't extricate it himself. Twight on the otherhand,while loving his partners, dumped a stove, pot, empty fuel bottles etc. on his 60hr push on the Czec direct, never intending to see that shit again. That Sucks! In the end I guess I've made my first post to defend a friend and maybe create some awareness on his and all our parts. We're in this game together we need to inspire as well as be responsible members of this community. What kind of a soap box am I standing on?.....Sorry!