TeleRoss
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Posts posted by TeleRoss
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Well, that's the name we're giving to whatever it was that we climbed on the west buttress of Silverstar yesterday. Apologies, and no offense to OffWhite if what we climbed was indeed your line Stellar Eclipse, we never found the 5.11 bolted face at the bottom, or really anything else that looked like it matched up with anything on the topo...it seemed that we either climbed parts of that route with some variations, or a completely independent line, but whatever it was, it was filled mostly with trees, kitty litter, large loose blocks, decomposed flakes, and other various forms of choss and general unpleasantness.
There were a couple of decent pitches. A long 5.9ish corner about mid height, and a steep finger/hand crack up near the top were the highlights. But I can't say that Eric or myself would recommend this to anyone.
from the approach
routes anywhere?
The view from the top is nice also
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Well, after climbing this route last summer with Sky I swore that I would never go back, even though the prospect of freeing this line was somewhat appealing...the thought of fighting through the chimneys and offwidths to get to the good steep stuff put me off...until a few months ago when I started to mention to Sky that I was going to head back. He wanted nothing to do with it, so naturally I turned to Eric, a one man offwidth crusher. He was psyched to check it out, so without much ado, off we went.
We arrived at the hairpin under clearing skies, much relieved that the forecast seemed to be wrong concerning the rain.
All set for some offwidth fun...YAY!!
The approach is straightforward, if a bit spicy with the steep snow coming down the east side of Kangaroo Ridge.
I led the first pitch, a rising ramp weaving in and out of loose blocks and large flakes.
Eric got the chimney/offwidth, which he calmly dispatched of without so much as a grunt. Eric also got the wild 8' deep chimney pitch. Lots 'o' fun.
Then I got the long finger crack pitch. Starts with a splitter in a corner, pulls a little bulge, made even more exciting when a foothold broke off...thank god for bomber finger jams, then continues up a steep layback/off fingers crack....stellar. The last crux pitch climbs an undercling out a wide roof to a wild chockstone mantle...funky but super fun.
Eric and I both really enjoyed this route...much better the second time around. The whole thing goes free at 11a
cheers
Ross
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Yeah, I want to head to the Black for sure! Think it's a bit hot down there right now...but I'll be back in the fall....definitely.
here's the link to the Colorado stoke:
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/698090/page/1#Post698090
cheers
Ross
:brew: -
Well, the last week of our trip is winding down. We've been lounging around here in Lyons, Colorado for about a week...filled mostly with tubing on the river, drinking beers on Lizzy's porch, partying in Boulder, and a bit of climbing thrown in just for fun.
Steph had hooked up with a couple of Lizzy's friends and went out and climbed the Petit Grepon, and Notchtop, while neither Lizzy nor I had been too motivated to climb much. We cragged for a day at Lumpy, and then hiked up to do a climb on Chiefshead, but Lizzy got pretty beat down by the elevation, so we bailed on that one.
NE Face of Chiefshead...an awesome, intimidating 1,100' wall.
Lizzy looking psyched...but that was short lived on this one
Finally, yesterday we were both pretty motivated to climb, so we woke early and hiked up to the Diamond.
I've heard about the Diamond over the years, and was psyched to finally get on it...it definitely lives up to the hype!
It's sorta like two Upper Town Walls stacked on top of each other, with splitters everywhere, on bomber rock...all this stuck on the side of a 14,000' peak in an awesome setting...pretty darn cool.
We did a route called The Black Dagger, named for the narrow tapered chimney that indeed looks like a black dagger on the wall.
Lizzy looking psyched again
First two pitches follow the Yellow Wall, and were interesting climbing. Fun edges and incipient finger and hand cracks led up for two long leads to a nice ledge.
We had some interesting weather
the weather kinda came and went all day...just to make things more interesting
From the ledge it is splitter central for two more long pitches up into the black dagger.
Lizzy climbing up into the mist
Lizzy on pitch 3, an awesome, splitter 5.11 finger crack.
Lizzy leading pitch 4...yet another Diamond splitter
The chimney is cruiser, but capped by a large roof that looks super intimidating, but which goes suprisingly 'easily'.
Above the chimney is a splitter steep fist crack with a rough off-width section. I messed up the protection below the roof and fought the worst rope drag ever as I grunted my way up this last bit....but wow...what a route!
Most parties rap from Table Ledge which runs across upper section of the Diamond, but I wanted to summit, so we traversed left along the ledge and followed Kiener's route to Longs Summit.
The Diamond definitely lived up to it's reputation for me anyways. Long pitches, difficult climbing, in an incredible alpine setting...I'll be back for more for sure!
Now, it's time to head back to the (still soggy???) PNW!!!!
who wants to party?
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Well, the last few days of our time on the road are winding down. We've been lounging in Lyons Colorado for about a week.
Been doing a lot of tubing on the river, went for a long hike, cragged a bit up at Lumpy, and partied in Boulder.
Yesterday, Lizzy and I were finally motivated to climb, so we got up early and headed up to the Diamond.
We climbed Black Dagger, an awesome line following splitter granite cracks into an easy chimney capped by a wild roof...great stuff.
The Diamond is indeed pretty darn rad!
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Nice work!!!
bummed to have missed out on this one.....
...but WHAT THE FUCK??? I leave town for a couple of weeks and you wankers are skiing on a rope???
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Well, we moved on out of the Valley....here's some more pics of our wanderings and clamberings.
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/696926/page/1#Post696926
cheers
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Well, I've finished up my stay in the Valley. After Half Dome, we said good bye to the Valley and Steph and I moved up to Tuolumne.
We climbed a couple of routes, Lucky Streaks on Fairview Dome, a nice 6 pitch 10d.
Then this awesome route, Oz on Drug Dome, a stellar 5 pitch 10d, which has a splitter corner pitch reminescent of the enduro corner on CBR.
Then Eric rolled through and we made our way over to Bridgeport and the Twin Lakes area to hop on the High Sierra uber-classic Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk (V 5.11). Pitch after pitch of absolutly beautiful splitters. Eric and I were both giddy pretty much with every move on this route...unreal!
After hiking out to the car, we drove into Lee Vining where I was supposed to meet up with Steph to move on to our next venue, but she had left messages on my phone talking about "car troubles" so Eric and I bivied out near Lee Vining for the night.
The next morning, Eric dropped me off at the Mobil Station, which we had been frequenting ever day since we met up, as they have these huge burgers and slices of chocolate cake....anyway, Eric dropped me off there with all of my gear to wait for Steph to show up. I didn't know when she would arrive, all I knew was that it would be sometime in the afternoon...hopefully. So I just pretty much set up shop.
Steph arrived a few hours later and we hit the road heading east for Lyons, Colorado.
We made it in about 15 or so hours arriving at Lizzy's house around 6 in the morning. Spent an awesome day in and around Lyons lounging at Lizzy's, tubing down the river, and just basically chilling out.
Yesterday, Steph went up into the park for an overnight backpack, and Lizzy and I went up to Lumpy for an afternoon of climbing and dodging thundershowers....good times!
Heading down to Eldo today, and then on Monday we're going to head up to the Diamond for Pervertial Sanctuary....STOKE!!!!
ps
Colorado is pretty rad...but the Cascades are WAYYYY Radder!!
peace
Ross
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Greetings from sunny Yosemite Valley. Well I'm half way through my month long climbing binge so I thought I'd send some stoke on up your way. Hows the weather up there? It's hot as fuck here, but the climbing has been spectacular.
so far we've climbed
Dogma (p1-10 11c)
Epinephrine (IV 5.9)
Serenity Crack (3p 10d)
Gripper (2p 10b)
New Dimensions (4p 11a)
Central Pillar of Frenzy (5p 5.9)
Higher Cathedral Spire (5p 5.9)
Reid's Direct (3p 10a)
Steck-Salathe (V 10a)
Ho Chi Minh Trail (V 5.11)
Gold Wall (p1-5 5.10c A0)
Half Dome Regular NW Face (VI 5.10d C1)
Fairview Dome, Lucky Streaks (6p 5.10d)
Drug Dome, Oz, (5p 5.10d)
Incredible Hulk, Positive Vibrations (V 5.11)
Longs Peak, The Diamond, Black Dagger (IV 5.11)
Steph and I stopped first at Red Rocks and hopped on Dogma...it was a rad climb, but waaayyyy to hot, so we rapped down after 10 pitches.
Have to go back and finish that one somtime.
Next day we chose shade and did Epinephrine. 15 pitches of awesome chimney, crack and face climbing.
After Epinephrine we drove towards the Valley, spent the night along the road and arrived in Yosemite the next day.
We got settled in Camp 4 then went over and did Serenity Crack.
Next day was Gripper and New Dimensions at Arch Rock.
Next day we did Central Pillar of Frenzy, Higher Cathedral Spire and Reid's Direct.
Took a day off for some
before doing the Steck-Salathe on Sentinel. Spectacular climbing...don't fear the offwidths! "The Narrows" may be one of the coolest pitches anywere.
Another day off, more
:brew: by the riverHo Chi Minh Trail on Middle Cathedral, awesome route! 20pitches of varied 5.7-5.11, mostly cracks, but plenty of face climbing, even a couple of roofs thrown in. Lots of 5.10. Follows first 6 pitches of the DNB, where DNB goes left HoChiMinh goes straight up the crest of the buttress...RAD!
Took a day off for yet more
:brew:, then it was time for the NW Face of Half Dome
Wow! What a route! Hiked the long way in and spent the night below the face with a few other parties. A couple had fixed lines to p3. We worked out a starting order based on peoples expectations. A Japanese party of 2 left super early, around 4ish jugging their lines. We started climbing around 5, and behind us were a couple of Brits trying for one day, and then a couple of guys aiding. We passed the Japanese party at pitch 7, and made the top at 7pm. Long day 14 hours of climbing...but for my first real aiding, and Stephs first time jugging I think we did ok.
Well, we're heading up to Toulomne for a day up on Fairview Dome tomorrow. Then Monday my man Eric Wehrly is coming on down, and were going to hit up Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk
Stoke!
:rawk:then about another week and a half on the road!
Hopefully by July it'll all be dried out up there in the PNW!
Cheers
Ross
ps
I totally wussed out and crawled a short section across Thank God Ledge, just after Steph took the photo
here's the link to the Positive Vibrations pics:
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/696926/page/1#Post696926
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I don't remember it being that run out. I went out left on the face where the corner got all mossy and seamed out. Then back into the corner above the shrubbery.
Good route.
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I want a Colin Haley bobble head doll!
Way to keep kickin ass Colin!
Climb high up there in the AKHey, when are you going to have pics of the gnarr?
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go get it!
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Thanks for the
time everyone!Let's do another blowout bash when I'm back in July!
cheers
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FUCK YEAH!!!!
Way to go Colin!
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Bump
Where is this?
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442436-PassportInsanity.jpg
where is that?
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....
Then go climb for a month.
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Fly? Dude, its only a couple miles in.
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yeah you should come Kurt...we can do birthday party.
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Hey everyone, just wanted to send out an invitation to y'all to come by Sky's pad for a raging bbq party next Tuesday 5-29.
We'll have plenty of beer, so just bring something to toss on the grill, feel free to bring family and/or friends, or just come alone and make some new ones.
Hope to see you all there.
cheers
Ross
oh yeah, the address is 521 NE 123rd, just a bit north of Northgate.
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Sweet! I think I'll have to add Dogma to the to do list.
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All Along the Watchtower is on N Howser.
Seattle Pub Club July 3rd
in Events Forum
Posted
Yeah, how about somewhere sunny...it's supposed to be super nice tomorrow.