TeleRoss
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Posts posted by TeleRoss
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Don't listen to all the naysayers! Just go do it...but realize that your margin of safety is very narrow when you solo. Much of the danger on Rainier, even on the most trivial routes is out of your control, meaning objective danger. That said, soloing does not necessarily put you into more objective danger, it simply means that if something happens you don't have a partner for help.
Go do it and have fun!
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Fuck...the bugs were horrendous! Thankfully I think the showers in the morning kept them down a bit, but good god...hahahahaa.
Yeah, we waited out the showers, thought about bailing, but waited at the base of the route for a while. We finally started climbing about 11 or so.
The weather totally cleared out after we started up and ended up being a beautiful day, with mild temps and off and on sunshine.
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Um...pretty sure I put up a post here for everyone to see...that means that you too, Mike, were invited...hahahahaha....see you there next week sucka!
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ps...how many power bars did you eat on this trip?
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Awesome trip Steph, and as always amazing photos!
Have fun in the Pickets
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oops...yeah should be "first" pitch
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I think we only took a couple of cheesy summit pics.
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Trip: South Early Winters - Passenger Route
Date: 7/15/2007
Trip Report:
Climbed the Passenger Route on SEWS last Sunday...wow...what a great route!
Frosty's description from last year is spot on. The base of the route is a bit tricky to find...basically drop down the large gully instead of descending right next to the wall and you'll have no trouble...the start of the first pitch is pretty obvious once you're in the right spot.
Awesome steep wall with splitter cracks, a few roofs, and some tough slab climbing, all on clean bomber rock....definitely one of the best routes I've climbed up at WA Pass....people should be getting on this one! Classic!
We did it in 7 pitches.
I thought the grades that Frosty gave were right on, but the first pitch is a stout 10d
pith ratings:
10d
11a
11a
11c
10b
10d
5.7
have fun on this one!
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Count me in for next Tuesday!
we should do mojitos
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Awesome! see you all there.
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You headed out there this evening? I'll be there around 8ish after a few laps out at Index this afternoon.
Sky...bring the BBQ!
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Nice work Blake
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I might be in for tomorrow night again.
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To me, the term "big wall" implies a style...ie: a big steep face, a high percentage of aid, maybe portaledges, hauling a pig, multiple nights on the wall..that to me is "classic" big wall
My first "big wall" was the NW Face of Half Dome...we did it in a day, and it felt like an outstanding long climb, but I wouldn't say that I gained any "big wall" experience from it, since there was very little aid or any other components of a big wall climb, other than a large number of pitches.
Had we spent a night or two on the wall, hauled a pig etc. I probably would have had more of a "big wall" experience.
in the end it's all just climbing, and it's fucking fun!
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Yeah that was a lot of fun! Next time we'll have to make sure we're in a more visible spot...it took us like an hour to find Sky over in the trees.
But yeah...beach pub club is the way to go for sure.
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Yeah...someone with a little charcoal or portable gas bbq needs to come!
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Pub Club at Golden Gardens tonight?
Looks like a few of us will be there around 6ish....come on by!
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I'll toss out my 0.02$ here also. The rock is impeccable, on both routes. Roan Wall is an excellent slab climb on perfect granite...a very enjoyable route, althogh my feet and toes might argue with that...
Salish Peak also is comprised of some amazing granite. Yes it is compact, but there are many protectable features. I don't think Mike's assessment is off base at all...and it certainly has nothing to do with being a "hardman", for I certainly am far from being one and I felt the same way, if not much stronger than Mike did about it.
The first thing that I really thought about the route, was that it followed such a contrived line, that it created the necessity of placing bolts very near the belays to serve as a sort of guide as to where the next pitch was going. There was one belay, that had the two belay bolts, and then three other bolts all within 5 feet of where I was standing.
On several pitches there were bolts next to protectable features, mind you, the cracks were thin, and would need small gear to protect, but small gear would certainly do the job.
On the last pitch I didn't clip a single bolt, a .5 and a #1 camalot go into the crack right next to the bolts.
This being said, the climbing is fun. And I suppose this is what creates the dilemma. The desire to put up a route on a peak which otherwise would require very difficult climbing to follow a more natural line. The feeling I have though is that this is a bad trend. Anyone out there can grab a drill head up to some rock and bolt out a moderate line that wanders and weaves its way all over the place with no regard for features or aesthetics of the line. And in my opinion at least this is not the direction that putting up new routes ought to take.
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how about a nice sunny patio with yummy margaritas?
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Alpine girls kick ass
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This is probably a decent approximation of the line we took.
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Wow...hahahaha...looks like we were way to the right of your line...maybe we met up with your line up near the top, but for the most part we were to the right.
That pitch in the pic doesn't look familiar at all.
Right on...
hope your line was a lot better than the one we took...hahahaa...
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Nice work boyz!!!
Soloing Rainier
in Newbies
Posted
Soloing can be a very hazardous endeavor when there are hotties in the vicinity.