ira

climbed east ingalls yesterday and got some ropes stuck rappelling down the gully between the east ridge of the north peak (beginning of route) and east ingalls. if anyone is up there i would really appreciate getting the ropes back, particularly the orange one. beer, tequila, etc offered as reward. thanks.

Went up there march 4 for the standard route. snow conditions weren't great but not bad. felt like we couldn't totally depend on the snow to hold us as there was about 4-8 inches over rock or ice. when over ice it was good (with an ice tool) but not so great when over rock. we didn't summit as we moved too far left and ended up to the left side of the false summit with no way around it. a fun day of climbing but now i'll have to go back to get the summit.

I went over to Shangri La last year on a whim as i saw something shiny from a distance and guessed it was a bolt. we climbed History Book on TR (had to cut a sticker bush down with my swiss army knife on route) and then did Free Radical, fun and challenging. as for worrying about your age, i didn't start climbing until i was 51 and am now 63. still going strong and hopefully that will continue for quite some time. however, haven't made it to 5.12 (yet).

I did the NBC on May 25th and there is already a significant amount of snow melt on the north face. there was very little exposed rock on our route up except for one scary/icy step up on rock until we got to the summit area. Very fun climb.

The Washington Alpine Club is now accepting applications for it's 2012 Basic Climbing Class. Applications will be accepted until Jan 31, 2012. The class teaches basic rock climbing: belaying, rappeling, knots, map and compass Basic Snow and Glacier travel: snow camping, use of ice axe for ascending and decending, self arrest, crampon technique, glacier rope up, crevasse rescue Detailed information can be found at this site: www.wacclass.org

Hey Gerhard, nice climb. i just did argonaut on sunday and am heading to sherpa at the end of this month. For argonaut we took the beverly creek trail which by my friends GPS is 5.1 miles to Ingalls creek. we set up camp there and then climbed the peak getting back just at dark. only 3 hrs into the camp and then 5 hrs to summit.

i have seen much larger groups of Mtneers on rock climbs than you mention (4 people) and have been held up by them. they have also been instructional climbs for students. and i have seen very large Mtneer groups on the Nisqually teaching. this is the nature of having classes and teaching. it's just not possible to teach a large number of people and only take 2 out at a time.

glad all went well with your climb and you made it to the summit and back down safely.

Trip: McClellan Butte - North Couloir Date: 1/23/2011 Trip Report: My plan during the week was to go skiing on Sunday but with no new snow and a very low avalanche danger predicted I thought it was perfect timing to go climb the North Couloir of McClellan Butte. I’ve been looking at this route for a number of years since it’s so visible when travelling west on I-90. It looked steep and narrow, perfect for a fun snow climb. I called Joanna to see if she was doing anything on Sunday and she only had a lunch planned; hardly anything to keep her from doing a good climb. So off we went Sunday morning getting to the McClellan Butte TH (1500 ft) at 8:30. We had read numerous trip reports from Cascade Climbers and they said to take the trail until you get to about 3400 – 3500 ft and then head up through trees and a snowfield until the obvious gully comes into sight. Seemed easy enough. We headed up the snow free trail which at about 2500 ft turned into fairly constant snow. Continuing on we finally got to 3400 ft at 10:30, 2 hrs from the TH. We were following tracks in the snow but didn’t see any heading up at this point so we just continued on looking for some tracks that were headed up since we knew someone had done the route 3 days earlier. We finally got to 3600 ft and never saw any tracks going up. So at this point it was either go back down and look more closely or just head straight up. We elected to head straight up the avalanche slope which was about 35 deg at the beginning. Going was pretty good with occasional deep steps when the crust wasn’t strong enough. Joanna being bigger than I am had a harder time but found it easier to make her own steps rather than following mine. Higher up the slope got steeper and narrower, going to about 40 deg. Also, as we got higher up I realized we were in the wrong place. By going to 3600 ft before starting up we overshot the couloir and ended up too far east, under a big rock cliff. We were now at about 4200 ft and needed to move west. This turned out to be the trickiest part of the day as we had to traverse a 45 deg snow slope over a rock band only feet away. A self-arrest at this point was very unlikely so we were extremely careful. After negotiating that slope we headed up slightly and then needed to downclimb a steep snow slope followed by an easy traverse through trees that finally brought us to the correct gully. Yea! We had been carrying our snowshoes all this way and never used them and clearly were not going to be using them as we went up the couloir. So they came off our packs and were firmly planted in the snow for the return. The couloir was about 40 deg at this location with prior steps going up. The people before us had used crampons but neither of us felt the need to put them on. It was very easy climbing as long as care was taken. As we got higher up the slope steepened to 45+ degrees but the going was still quite easy. Near the top of the couloir we spied two other climbers, the ones that had made the tracks we were following. They were roped up and attempting to scale the rock/ice band to get to the summit. I had read numerous reports about others trying this and all backed off unless it was later in the season and the ice had melted out. We elected not to even bring rock gear to attempt this although I did have 3 ice screws with me if the ascent looked promising, it didn’t. It was definitely a mixed climb, ice and rock, that I wasn’t prepared to do. We headed off to climbers left at the top of the couloir, they were on the right. We stamped out a little platform to stand on, put some warm clothes on and had a quick bite to eat. We had no intention of downclimbing the route as it would have taken a long time to back down hundreds of feet of 45+ deg snow. So we set up our first rappel right near the top on the left side. We had brought along a 60m 8mm rope for rappelling and also knew that if we needed it for climbing the route it would have been fine as we were only on a snow slope and not doing anything that would have resulted in a vertical fall. This was our first of six rappels down through trees on climbers left. The last rappel brought us back to the gully and the 40 deg slope. At this point we just plunge stepped down as the snow was soft enough to be safe. Got back to our snowshoes and then continued down the lower couloir that we hadn’t been up. There were a few breaks in the snow where water was flowing over short drops. We downclimbed these areas pretty easily and continued on our way. Finally out of the gully we followed the other climber’s tracks up to get us back to the trail and on our way down. It did get dark on us and we ran into trouble determining exactly where we needed to be when traveling along one of the roads looking for the trail extension. We lost about ½ an hour during this time and finally got back to the car about 6:00. The other two climbers elected to rappel off the west side of the couloir from the top rather than down the couloir as we had decided to do. Their car was still in the parking lot when we returned so they were clearly still out there. A very fun day. Gear Notes: Gear taken/used: Ice axe – used Ice tool – not used Rope – used Helmet – used Crampons – not used Pickets – not used Ice screws – not used Snowshoes – not used Webbing for rappels – used (6) Rappel rings - used Approach Notes: Start at the McClellan Butte TH, exit 42. The key thing is to head up from the trail at 3400 ft so you can go straight to the couloir rather than how we did it.

The Washington Alpine Club is now accepting applications for our 2011 Basic Mountaineering Class. The class teaches basic rock climbing, glacier climbing, use of ice axes and crampons, snow camping, map and compass, and general skills required when climbing in the Pacific NW Mountains. Prior climbing experience is not required but good physical condition is. If interested, please go to this website for further information: http://wacclass.org/default.html

Trip: Forbidden - West Ridge Date: 7/9/2010 Trip Report: Chris, Dave, Jen and I had been planning on doing the west ridge of Forbidden for about 2 months now. We had two previous dates planned but bailed on both due to the weather. We finally had a good weather window last week so went up on Thursday. Lucky for us, but quite surprisingly, we got the last permit of the day for Boston Basin. It was also full the day before. This was also my third time in three years I went up to Boston Basin to climb forbidden, the other two times i got weathered off before we got up the couloir. Pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/ira.rushwald/Forbidden?feat=email# The hike in was brutally hot as thursday was in the 90's down in seattle. We stopped a number of times and just took our time as we knew once we got to the lower camp there would be no shade and we'd just bake out there. We arrived around 5 PM, got the last good site at the lower camp and set down our 4 bivy bags. The creeks are running high on the way in and the first one has to be taken with some care. Also, right now the upper creek in Boston Basin can still be crossed on snow which was a nice find. The lower campsite is pretty much snow free but the rest of the basin is in snow. The next morning we left camp at about 6 AM and arrived at the base of the couloir 2 hrs later. There was one open crevasse low down on the glacier that was an easy step across and there were open crevasses just to the right of the big rock below the couloir that you have to walk around. Very easy but taken with care. The couloir is in very good shape right now. There are moats opening up but they are easy to avoid. We did not bring pickets or crampons with us due to the hot weather and found we made the correct choice as it was easy to kick steps. After about 500 ft (not vertical but slope) the snow ended and we got onto rock. This was really the sketchiest part of the entire climb as we had our climbing boots on, no rope, it's class 4, loose rock with some snow, etc. This goes about one rope length until getting to the notch. At the notch we found the north side of the ridge still under quite a bit of snow so we ended up staying right on top of the ridge the entire route. Amazing exposure or highly intimidating, depending on your persuasion. I found it fun. The climbing is easy, a lot of class 4 and low class 5 with some mid-class 5 sections. The crux pitch has a fixed pin which was nice to clip and i put 2 more cams above that to get to the belay above. So, while climbing up was fun, the downclimbing kind of sucked. Since we were a party of four, it took a long time, even with the two ropes. Part of the route can be rappelled and the rest has to be downclimbed. Not sure the rappelling saves much time as you have to be very careful going down the ridge. Anyway, by the time we got back to the notch it must have been 6 PM. I knew this wasn't good and I turned out to be right. We did a double rope rappel down the rock part of the couloir which worked great. We did another double rope rappel down the upper snow section to an anchor on the climber's left. This turned out to be a mistake because as we did our third double rope rappel the rope kept getting caught in the moat on the left side of the couloir between the rock wall and the snow/ice. This ate up enormous amounts of time and by the time all 4 of us were down it was dark. We pulled the rope and worst of worst, it was stuck. The knot was only 20 ft above us but the rope must have gotten stuck in the moat as we couldn't get it loose no matter how hard we tried. I climbed up the 20 ft to untie the ropes so we at least had one. We left one behind. It was now very, very dark as heavy clouds had come in. Going back to camp was slow but we finally got there at 1 AM. The next morning we were going to climb Sharkfin Tower but instead we went back up to retrieve the rope. But as i expected it was already gone, one of the morning climbing parties had bagged it. So, if anyone hears of someone finding a rope in the couloir on saturday morning it's ours. It's a 70m, 9.2 I think, green. In spite of the lost rope and the long day, it was a great climb. We all really enjoyed the views and the rock climbing. What a fabulous area. Gear Notes: Gear Notes: I had double cams from .4 - 2. Used most of them Set of nuts - used one 4-5 double length slings are nice as there are many places to sling rather than place gear Approach Notes: Get a permit early in the day. First creek could be nasty. It was fine going up but coming down all rocks were under water. We actually belayed across this as it just seemed to risky to take a fall.

Does anybody know if the gate to Daley Prairie is now being left open, or is it still hit-or-miss? when i was there last year we were pondering the same question when this pickup came down the road and stopped. they said it's a good thing we didn't go up there as the sherrif is fining people who do and then there is the potential the gate will get locked (which he proceeded to do).

we did have to melt water. there's lots running down below of course and a ton was coming down Ulrich's Couloir, but high up on the ascent route we didn't find running water. we carried a small stove with us.

Trip: Mt Stuart - West Ridge Date: 6/28/2008 Trip Report: Lee, Stefan and I set off Saturday morning to climb the West Ridge of Stuart. We hadn't seen any trip reports for this route yet this year which seemed surprising. Since none of us had done this route before we were hoping to get some up-to-date info but alas, there was none. We did have posts and pictures from many other people who've climbed the route in previous years and knew all about the route finding problems for first timers on the west ridge. We found the info on ClimbingWashington.com to be quite helpful and also the pictures in SummitPost.org, along with some other detail info we found on the web. One key piece of info we got was to go up the second gulley from the west all the way to the top of the ridge. This was under heavy snow most of the way up and it was quite steep in the upper portions (50 deg?). Following the pictures and guides we crossed into the next gulley to the east heading to Long John's Tower. We tried going left initially and ended up on solid class 5 rock which we knew was one way up but not the way we wanted to go. So we downclimbed a bit and moved further right onto class 4 rock. This was much easier but was quite wet so the small rock particles (sand) mixed with water made it a bit interesting. We followed the guides pretty much as they directed us so we were able to stay on route quite well. We headed towards the west ridge notch, sometimes on rock, sometimes on steep snow. It was starting to get late at this point, 8PM, so we knew we needed to start looking for a bivy site. We crossed some very steep snow (55 deg) and got onto a small rock ledge where we were able to find a reasonable place to build a bivy site for the three of us. Lee and Stefan built the site while I got the stove going so we could have a hot dinner. It was amazingly warm that night and totally clear. Just beautiful up there. We were at about 8700 ft. The next morning we headed off towards the west ridge notch. At first we went straight up to the ridge top to a notch, but it was not the right notch. We had to rappel from there to continue our journey eastward and up. We obtained the west ridge notch pretty easily with class 3 and 4 scrambling. Now the "obvious ledge" leading to the north side baffled us for awhile. We eventually found a nice route up the north side of the rock from the notch but i'm not sure if it is the standard route. It was class 4 to easy 5, exposed, and quite short. This brought us to the ridge crest and onto the south side ledge of the summit block. It took us awhile to figure out what route to take from here. There's a class 5.4 route and a 5.6 route and who knows how many others. This was the first time we pulled out the rope for climbing. We eventually picked one and Lee took the lead up the right corner. He set an anchor at about 30m which turned out to be perfect for 3 people climbing as I tied into the middle, climbed up to Lee and there was just enough rope left for Stefan to tie in and come up. We did this again for the next pitch which brought us just below the summit. From there we scrambled onto the summit block. Views were stunning, weather warm (t-shirts and shorts) and we were all alone on an amazing peak. For the route down we intended to take the Cascadian Couloir but we didn't go far enough east and I believe went down Ulrich's Couloir. There was a very steep snow field at the top and after that we went back and forth between snow and rock. We did two rappels to get past waterfalls lower down the gulley. Eventually we arrived at a raging Ingall's Creek which we crossed by sitting down on a large log and scooting on a butts. At this point it was 8PM so we decided to spend the night right there. The next morning we got up a little past 5 AM and headed up the Long's Pass trail. There's lots of downed trees in this section and streams that have taken over the trail. The upper portion is still under snow so we donned our crampons and ice axes for the final ascent to the pass. From there is was all downhill and a very nice arrival at the waiting car. A stop at Cle Elum at a coffee roasting cafe for some wonderful coffee, smoothies and sandwiches finished off a fine climb. Gear Notes: Al crampons and ice axes, small rack of nuts, tricams, a few small cams, some single and double slings.

Trip: North Twin - West Ridge Date: 6/30/2007 Trip Report: There's been some other trip reports on this route recently but i just wanted to add some route finding info as it can be confusing to someone new to this climb. Drive to Acme and take the Mosquito Lake Rd to road 38 (it's a gravel road with a huge gravel mound next to it). Stay on this road for a few miles until it splits off to the right to head down to the river. There's a gate and a bridge at the bottom. This is the beginning of the bike ride/push. (1200 ft elevation) It's a pretty steep go from here. Two of the people in our party were able to ride all the way but the rest of us did a lot of pushing. In 2.5 miles (2600' el), there's a major right turn. Take this road/trail (much easier biking from here on) for approx. 1 mile until a stream crossing. Continue on, bearing left at the Y, until you get to the "top" of the road (3250' el). There's a sign here, can't remember what it says, and a trail that heads off left. Push your bikes up aways and lock to any tree. The trail continues up and changes into road again switchbacking up. Eventually you'll approach a logged off area. There's a road going left that you take and fifty yards later you should see a big fire pit. The real trail starts here. Head up steeply on trail through clearcut until entering forest. The trail continues through forest and eventually you will get to the west ridge (4900'). Climb as in the becky guide. Very fun scramble. No technical gear required other than an ice axe to come down the North face which is very steep at the beginning.

I did this on saturday with a group of 5 (3 students from a basic climbing class). It's a very fun trip, particularly the scramble which is why you go in the first place. i could skip the first 2.5 miles of biking as i had to push my bike most of the way up those hills. btw: we stopped at the other entrance where the gate was open and pondered driving up there. while discussing this someone came down and said if we went up we'd probably get locked in and possibly fined.

Yes, I remember passing you on the way down. compared to the other two i was with i'm the "old guy". In fact, i think i'm the same age as the two of them together, 57. Even going up the way you did is a fun climb and it's such a beautiful area. Glad you enjoyed it.

Trip: Mt Maude - North Face - Date: 6/23/2007 Trip Report: Thursday afternoon I got an email from Joanna asking if I was interested in doing the north face of Mt Maude (1600 vertical feet on continuous 45 to 60 degrees snow/ice). How could I say no! Some quick planning of necessary gear and arranging times and Krystian, Joanna and I were off at 6 PM Friday. We each had ice axe, ice tool and crampons and then there was the group gear of two pickets, two ice screws, small set of nuts and a 30m 8mm rope.. We weren’t sure what conditions would be like so we had to prepare for a few possibilities. For those new to this route it begins at the Phelps Creek trailhead (3500 ft el), better known as the route to Spider Meadows. We arrived at the closest camp around 10 PM Friday night with plans to get up at 4 AM. Unfortunately during the night my altimeter watch battery ran out but luckily theirs didn’t so we were up at 4 and at the trailhead by 5 AM. The trail is quite level all the way into Spider Meadows, 7 mi, but we were only going to Leroy Creek which is about 3.5 miles in. All the creeks were overflowing their banks which made it a little harder getting in but didn’t really slow us down. However, crossing Leroy Creek was a challenge. It was really blasting along so we hiked up creek a ways until we could find a spot to jump from rock to rock using our poles for balance. Falling into the creek was not an option as it was running fast and deep and a fall would have meant a nasty swim. At this point the trail goes ballistic climbing very steeply to Leroy Basin (maybe 1800 ft in a little over a mile). This was a good rest spot and a time to get some good clean water and some food in our bellies. Looking up we spotted a group just approaching the 8158 ft col between 7 fingered jack and maude, our intended route. They must have gotten a real early start considering where they were and where we were and we had left the trailhead at 5 AM. We headed up on intermittent snow and meadow until it finally turned completely to snow. The snow was quite hard so we put on crampons and didn’t take them off again until we hit the summit. It’s a bit of a grind getting to the col with some 2000+ ft of gain. However, the snow was hard and just great for cramponing so it wasn’t too painful. We arrived at the col about 10 AM, now 5 hours from our start and almost 4700 ft of gain completed. Another break before the traverse over to the base of the north face. It was beautiful, sunny weather so we basked in the sun’s rays for awhile looking at 7 Fingered Jack and our route. We now saw the other climber’s again who were just topping out of the north face. Boy did it look steep. Were we really going to climb that thing? Pictures from Krystian: www.flickr.com/photos/13118816@N00/sets/72157600480079132/ Pictures from Ira: http://picasaweb.google.com/ira.rushwald/MtMaudeNorthFace Hell yes! We dropped steeply off the col and began the traverse. This could be the trickiest part of the entire route. Traversing across 45 – 50 deg snow with intermittent rock along the way that we had to downclimb in crampons. Nothing difficult, just had to be careful not to bite the dust, or in this case a steep descent into unknown parts of the glacier below. Finally made it to the base and it didn’t look that bad at all. It starts out at 45 deg and stays there for maybe 500 ft. Then it rolls back a little so we stopped for a needed rest at a rock outcropping to put on more sunscreen, get some water and food. It starts up again at the same 45 deg and holds it continuously until the last few hundred feet when it gets steep. Up to this point we were just using one ice axe and didn’t bother with the rope since conditions were so good and we all felt totally comfortable on the slope. The last few hundred feet Nelson describes as exhilarating. Yea, I can see that. ! It jumps to 55 to 60 degrees in this section so we all pulled out our ice tools to help us along. They weren’t really necessary given the great conditions but with 1200 ft of steep snow under our butts it seemed like a wise thing to do. We still didn’t bother with the rope as it just didn’t seem necessary. The snow had softened somewhat from when the first party had gotten there. We probably would have roped up if the snow had been as hard as it most likely was for them. Once up the steep face, there’s a little bit of snow and then some easy rock to get to the summit. Success! It was now 1 PM. 8 hours and approximately 6500 ft completed. And it was still sunny and beautiful. We hung out, took pictures, ate; all the usual stuff before heading back down. The return took us down the southwest ridge until krystian headed off to the right and said there looked to be a faster way down. He was right, so we headed off down various snowfields until we eventually got back to Leroy Basin. I was really beat by this point yet still knew there was at least 5 more miles to go. We had a good rest and took off again. Arriving at the nasty stream crossing, Krystian threw a bunch of large rocks into the water to make our jumping a little easier. From there it was 3.5 miles down the road to the car. That lasted forever for me. I was very happy to get back to the car at 6 PM. A long, hard day but really a great climb. Highly recommend it to those who like steep snow. Distance: about 14 – 15 miles Elevation Gain: 6500 ft (almost all of it in about 3 miles) Gear Notes: Gear used: crampons, ice axe, ice tool Gear not used: 30m 8mm rope, nuts, ice screws, pickets

Climb: Dragontail-Serpentine Arete Date of Climb: 8/20/2006 Trip Report: Serpentine Arete! 14 pitches with a couple of 5.8s, a few 5.7s, and some more 5th class with a bunch of 4th class thrown in. I knew this would be a challenge but felt I was up for it. The big question was speed, were we fast enough to climb the entire route and get back to camp in one day. So I called my friend Stefan and asked if he was interested. He definitely was as he tried to do it last year but work interfered with his ability to get out. We needed a permit for the Colchuck Lake area so we decided to head over Friday night after work on August 18, sleep at one of the campgrounds up Icicle Creek and then hit the Ranger Station at 7:45 AM to hopefully get our permit. Unfortunately, every single campground was full by the time we got there so we found a side road, drove up about 1/8 mile and found quite a nice little spot to set up our tent for the night. Up early on Saturday to get to the ranger station and we were the first ones there at 7:40. Three more people showed and we all got our permits at 7:45. The ranger said there were 37 people Friday morning and most didn’t get permits. We lucked out. Now having lots of time we headed off for a nice breakfast and then when on to Castle Rock which is a little ways upriver. Castle Rock is a good size rock with lots of trad routes and some bolted routes on it. We chose a mid-fifth class multi-pitch trad route as a good warmup to Dragontail. We finished the route and then headed off to lunch/dinner, pretty tough work so far. Had a nice lunch at Gustov’s before we made it to the trailhead, repacked and were ready to roll by 4:50 PM. Not exactly the start time we had planned. We arrived at Colchuck Lake in 2 hrs, 20 minutes but then had to do the long up and down hike around the lake. Stefan thought it would be a good idea to camp well above the lake so we could get an early start on the climb in the morning by not having to hike up so much to the trailhead. Seemed like a good idea. Mistake #1! We climbed up the scree field about 800 ft or so which was absolutely miserable but did find a nice bivy site next to a stream coming out the colchuck glacier and snowfield below it. Up early the next morning for the climb we weren’t sure whether we needed ice axes and crampons to get on route and also to get down the snowfield from the Dragontail Col. We elected to leave the ice axes at camp and only took the crampons. As we approached the route higher up we realized there wasn’t any snow or ice to cross so no need for those crampons. At the base of the climb we decided to leave the crampons, my emergency bivy bag and a few other items behind. Mistake #2. Climbing. First pitch up a ramp with a few small trees is class 3 to 4 but we must have turned up too soon as we got into some 5th class stuff we weren’t supposed to. I belayed Stefan as he led a short section that got us back on route. The next pitch was class 3 and led to the first real climbing on the route, a 5.7 corner system with a big flake that had to be worked around. I led this pitch and it was definitely a challenge. One report said there were ledges off to the left but I couldn’t find these so I stayed in the corner system. This eventually led to a lieback which I could only protect from a few feet below the lieback with a large hex. Made me nervous but once I started I was fine. This brought us up to the crux of the climb, the 5.8 sections on the right side of a big pillar. Stefan decided to leave his pack behind for the lead of this one and it was quite tough. It was particularly difficult getting started as there’s a small crack starting above the head with very little placement for the feet (particularly true when you’re short like me). The crack continues for some 50 ft up to a nice belay station. Stefan lowered the rope, I attached his pack and he hauled it up. I then climbed the route without too much difficulty except for the start. The next pitch is also a 5.8 crack but more in a corner and part way up has another crack about 4 ft off to the right. I led this pitch using the other crack for my right foot and it went quite well. This pitch was also short so I just continued on to the next 5.7 pitch which seemed harder than the 5.8 to me. I finished this pitch, brought Stefan up and he led the next 5.7 or so pitch. At this point another team of a man and a woman were catching up to us. However, we had made it to the ridge top and could now start simul-climbing. Stefan led out but we were going kind of slow so I volunteered to let the other team pass up as they were clearly more experienced and could move faster. A couple of more pitches and the realization that time was moving faster than we were started to become clear. It was probably 6 PM or so and we still had a long way to go. The route description says that if you stay on the right side of the ridge the climbing is class 3 to 4 so we opted for that to save time. We moved right and up into a big gulley (Mistake #3). We simul-climbed this gulley for 2-3 pitches with Stefan leading but it turned out to be really nasty. Lots of falling rock, one big one caught me in the back as I pushed against the rock to avoid being hit in the head. As it turned to dusk we switched leads and I headed off up an angled crack that turned bad. I had to back off and downclimb to Stefan as darkness descended upon us. Decision time. Do we hang from a rock all night in our harnesses or risk rappelling down somewhere in the dark. We elected to rappel down and after two full length rappels found a big ledge to make home for the night. We each found a flat rock about 2 feet long to call a bed. Sure wish I had that bivy I left at the base of the climb. We put our packs and the rope underneath us for protection, put all our clothes on and settled in for a chilly night. After a couple of hours I could see Stefan was particularly cold as he only had shorts on his legs so I suggested we cuddle up for the remainder of the night. He accepted this invitation, how could he refuse me, and that definitely made a difference in the warmth factor. As the sun rose, so did we. We made one more short rappel that allowed us to get back to the ridge where I took all the gear and started climbing for the summit. We simul-climbed the rest of the route and in 1 to 1/1/2 hrs were at the summit. Had we stayed on route we would have made the summit before dark. Drats!! A short time on the summit, it was gorgeous, and down the class 3 trail to the col. Now the snowfield. We had to downclimb the rock a short ways and jump onto the snow. It was pretty hard but not solid. I saw some tracks angling down the snowfield and thought if we can get to them they will probably provide enough footing for us to make it down safely. Sure wish I had those crampons we left at the base of the climb. We backed ourselves down to the tracks kicking steps and digging our fingers in the snow. This worked quite well and we were soon on the tracks and down the snowfield. Water!! I forgot to mention we had both run out of water the day before and were completely parched as we baked in the western sun the last few hours of the climb. Down Asgaard. Now the unfortunate part of mistake 1 and 2 came home. We had to hike all the way back up to get our gear. This really sucked and it took hours as we were really tired, there’s no trail, it’s very steep and loose and it’s the middle of the day. We made it up, got back to the gear we had left at the bottom of Asgaard so we didn’t have to haul it up, repacked and headed on out. A much longer ‘day’ than we had thought but all worked out fine in the end. Now, the bivy was uncomfortable, but manageable. Camping high and leaving our gear at the base of the climb seemed like a good idea at the time but clearly turned out to be a mistake. The climb itself was a lot of fun and I would definitely do it again. Gear Notes: 6 cams up to size 3; 4 smallest tricams; set of nuts; some smaller hexes and one large one; 12-14 single slings; 4 double slings; crampons depending on time of season.

Climb: Sloan Peak-Corkscrew Date of Climb: 8/6/2006 Trip Report: My friend Eric and I headed out to the Sloan Peak trailhead Saturday evening as we knew the climb was going to take 12-14 hours and had to get an early start. It's 6 miles to the summit and 6000 ft of elevation gain. The first mile is perfectly flat so it's really 5 miles and 6000 ft up so we knew we were in for a strenuous day. We got to the trailhead around dusk, set up a tent in the parking area because of bugs and after a cool beer settled down for a short night. We got up at 5 am and were on the trail at 6 am. We were trying to go as light as possible so Eric convinced me to cut my 30m 8mm rope in half so we could reduce the weight. I'll buy another 30m with him putting in half the money. The first 3/4 mile is a little confusing but there are plenty of flags to follow (this is not a route you can follow in the dark with a headlamp). After a few stream crossings we got to the main crossing of the Sauk River. At this point in the year it's quite an easy crossing but it's still knee deep so bringing along sandals is a really good idea. The crossing is easy but the water is moving along pretty quickly. There's a sandbar (rockbar) just upstream that's where you head to. We put our boots back on, hid our sandals to cut down on the weight and off we went. The trail starts up from the rockbar about 30 yards from where you get on it from the river. After a very short flat section it starts to take off and is generally pretty relentless. The trail is unmaintained but well marked with flags but there are a lot of big trees to climb over and under and at times you can't even see your feet from all the brush hanging over the trail (also lots of spider webs to stick to your face). On the way is a beautiful waterfall that Eric remarked would be a state park in most states but here it is totally unknown since it's along a climbers trail. It reminded me of a waterfall I saw in Costa Rica and of course there was a park there. At 4600 ft you arrive at a small meadow. The trail goes upstream on the rocks and after a very short distance begins again on the left side of the stream. This is the steepest part of the entire hike and it wastes no time in going up at a riduculous rate. Luckily this section is not too long and it rises to a knoll, drops down a little bit and then heads up again to reach the upper basin. From here the snow begins but it was quite easy going, no need for crampons or ice ax. We climbed on snow for about 1000 vertical feet up into a saddle where the peak and glacier really opened up to us. From here we followed the main rock ridge up until we came to a reasonable place to start our glacier traverse. We donned crampons (marginally necessary), ice ax and rope, left our poles and off we went. The 15m rope was very nice here for two people. We climbed steadily passing some large, deep crevasses and had to cross a couple of snow bridges. At the SE corner of the summit block at the top of the glacier we got off, left all our glacier gear and took the corkscrew trail around the mountain. It's a good trail around the mountain to the southwest side. A gulley marks the beginning of the class 3 scramble to the summit with various alternative class 4 sections to do if you so desire (which I did and were fun). We reached the summit about 12:45, 6 3/4 hours since leaving the trailhead. The views were amazing!!! We could see from Mt Baker and Shuksan all the way past Rainier and then west to the Olympics and of course east to Glacier Peak which we could almost touch. Also a great view of the Monte Cristo Peaks from a side I had not seen before that included numerous glaciers and a hanging one to boot. After 45 minutes on the summit we headed down just as two other climbers arrived at the summit. It's an easy down climb back to the trail and the glacier. We decided to take a different route across the glacier that looked like there would be less snow bridges. This time we stayed very high, close to the big wall of Sloan, but far enough away to avoid any potential rockfall. This turned out to be a good route down as it was less steep and had no crevasses to cross. I'm glad we took the other route up as it was much more interesting and beautiful with the crevasses but for the way down we wanted the easiest possible. We ended up a ways above our poles which was fine as we stopped for some very refreshing glacial runoff, scampered down the rocks to our poles and did standing glissades all the way back to the upper basin. We finally made it back to the trailhead at 6:15 PM, 12 hrs and 15 min after starting out. Another beer for the rode and we were ready to head on home. I'd really recommend doing this in one day as lugging a full pack up that steep trail and over and under the 4 ft diameter logs would be crueling. There's plenty of water along the entire route until you get to the glacier so it's not necessary to carry too much. Gear: Alum ice ax, Alum crampons, short rope, and glacier setup. Go as light as possible. Gear Notes: Alum crampons, Alum ice axe, Glacier setup Approach Notes: Bring sandals for the river crossing

Due to changing plans i now have some very difficult to come by reservations for Yosemite available for sale if anyone is interested. 2 nights at Tuolumne Meadows: nights of June 27 and 28 $36 3 nights in the valley at Upper Pines campground: June 29, 30, and July 1 $58 email me at: ira.rushwald@boeing.com