crusty_climber

I was one of the instructors at Barney's Rubble on Sunday and many non-Mountaineers climbed there all day. Where were you bouldering Erik? I wonder if I talked to you. What is wrong with the comment about gear not always holding? That may be obvious to a proficienct climber (such as yourself) but might not be obviuos to a newbie. (no, I didn't make the comment but I know who did). We left NO tape and no beer cans, sorry. And referring to your complaint earlier about Mountaineers always telling you what you're doing wrong. Well we had some non-Mountaineer climbers there telling the students they where doing stuff wrong!!

We can see your remarks prior are really just contradicting what you are now saying.

though i heard it, yes i did! a mountie's intructor told the students that gear doesn't always hold, so be suspect!! Goran Kropp had gear that failed.

I wanted to start a ethics discussion, not a "what ehmmic did right or wrong" spray fest. What's ethically more correct then? Getting yourself down from a pitch with a couple of pitons and going home for burgers or calling in a rescue while on top of Glacier Peak because you were to scared to walk down the mountain? I just had to.

shit, I took a leaderfall on cat crack first time I tried it. no joke! blew the onsight!!! Don't tell us you'd mess up on 5 finger sally too? I hear she gives it up to anybody

I ran over a white rabbit on my way into Marblemount las time I was there.

Some A3 at Index to the left of Princely Ambitions.

I'm willing to crust my way up Index only in winter after my last foray. I'd rather go to the Canadian Rockies instead. Mt Index is like a giant dingleberry

It sounds more like you think it was cool to do it once and that you'd never have anything to do with it again since you bagged all the summits?

You tell me. Never did it winter. Probably better as a winter climb.

What are some good uns? Let's hear the good and the bad of some of the routes you've done in the range. Let's hear why? Leave out the sufferfests if the route was a pile of doo. I like the North Ridge of Mount Stuart, the East Ridge of Eldorado Peak, Prusik Peak by the West Ridge, Sulphide Glacier of Mount Shuksan, Easton Glacier of Mount Baker, and the Serpentine Ridge of Dragontail Peak for example. Some bad ones. Or should I say over rated are the West Ridge of Sherpa Peak, the South Face of Ingalls Peak, the North Face of the North Peak of Mount Index. Name as many as you like. You don't have to tell us why.

schoeller is OVERPRICED. I never had it 4 years ago and it's still not worth it. I do like light nylon shells in the summer. If you can get a deal on some golite and or wild things stuff it's worth the sale price. I never have many regrets when torching or ruining a pair of their stuff as long as I didnt pay the retail costs and got it for a deal. It was cheap climbing over 11000 feet in high winds over 60MPH constantly of the Canadian Rockies in cheap thin stuff that WORKED.

I am sorry that ehmmics name got drug through this argument, but don't blame me. Seems a little shallow of a comment considering all things from an outsider. I don't think I'd go up to climb GD with pins and a hammer so maybe I'd find myself in a different situation or maybe not. That's not saying I'm any better. I could find myself in a sketch situation too and do the same thing if I had them. Who knows? How much do you wanna bet they have learned something about aid climbing? It's good to hear that nobody was hurt. There are not many rules in climbing really... There are just a lot of people trying to create and enforce their own methods, purposes and morals on others. Wether or not you believe in them is up to you. Just because a couple of pins were smashed in the rock doesn't ruin my day or experience to go on the route. I'm sure they thought about their actions before nailing which are a lot less costly than injury and rescue. It seems like a small comparison than to a rescue cost on Rainier or the impacts related to something similar including rescuers' time and energy and exposure to possible dangers to rescuing some poeple for instance. The final impression I get is that they\she rescued herself and did fine.

Mountaineers Suck!

Even though I'm not sure they can do them I'll throw in a wild idea anyway. Try a vet hospital.