pazzo

ahha, picnic lunch wall. that rings a bell.

the climb i'm referring to may have been called Appian Way, but i may be mistaken?

that looks like the top of a .12 i did at smith... it was on the right side of the huge wall opposite the wooden bridge which crosses crooked river, visible from the parking lot.

i've heard good things about the Underfling. To the Hilt looks good too, but that last 12 feet from the horns on the Sword to the belay, would be enough to make it quite pumpy

and there's my boss: "Squamish, or something in the alpine this Tuesday?"

i rarely bring my phone on long climbs in squamish, but i feel differently about it in the mountains. for instance, i told everybody i should be back at a certain time, i was not, so i called from the summit ridge, and everything was ok. my phone stays on silent when i'm up there, and my partner doesn't object. and if he does, too bad. if (s)he's the one who gets injured, it's a lot quicker most times to run up to the top and call for help as opposed to running 15kms back to the car (depends on where one is).

haha sorry for the short answer, i was late for an appointment!! so the bottom of the Dyke itself, would be considered 4th, and easily doable w/out ropes, wet or dry (rock, not ropes) the crux of the whole route, if one were to summit Edge, would be the little 4th section passing the large chockstone in the gully as you start up the summit, after the col. but it's easily climbed/ downclimbed. if you don't feel comfortable downclimbing this section, there was rap slings around a tree to get thru this section. this pic shows the dyke from the bottom, before we started up and here's a pic of my ass as i mount the dyke . here's the last steep section of the dyke, before it slabs off

crux is 4th. and i did the whole route in approach shoes, no probs.

i've reconsidered, and i think they're equal now. ok fine, maybe Freeway's better, but only cause it's longer and more consistent. i like the DP so much cause it's so steep. Freeway's quite slabby, w/ two steep pitches (the two roof pitches). at the top of the first pitch of DP is a hanging belay. after that is a .10b pitch which starts up a chimney, then moves into a crack/ corner system then moves right at the top to the belay. the hanging belay on top of the first pitch should be avoided, and linked w/ the second pitch for full value. the third pitch in an amazing undercling which goes at .11a. the next pitch is the crux. it's .12b face climbing which is i found very reachy. heres a pic i took of a chick i climb w/ on DP back in '04. she's on the start p2, in the chimney just off the belay.

i like the Daily Planet better and Cruel Shoes - Grand Wall - Upper Black Dyke is probably one of the best long climbs in Squamish.

definitely!! ^ there was quite a few rocks like that around up there, only they weren't as neat

when i first read the post title, i thought about my pic i took up on Golden Ears. then i saw yours and thought mine was ridiculous... so what if you're sitting on the pot, and a group of uninhibited chicks walks around the corner? 8D it just seems so, exposed!!

trad at it finest...

Trip: Edge Peak - White Dyke Date: 8/24/2007 Trip Report: did the white dyke route up edge a few days ago. there's not much to tell, except that i saw a mtn goat. so i'll just post pics. in total, it was probably 6000' elev gain from the trailhead, and just over 20 kms round trip. enjoy... double summit of Edge crux section on Edge bypassing chockstone descent w/ mtn goat and rappel (down opposite side) Gear Notes: one 30m rope for rappel if descending via Golden Ears/ west canyon trail. Approach Notes: west canyon trail to alder flats. follow creek bed up until possible to take left hand branch near top. follow this to base of dyke.

i heard of goats further north, but has anybody ever seen one in Golden Ears? i saw one on Edge while climbing the white dyke on friday. anyways, i just thought i'd see if this is a common sight so close to town.

is this the one in the ditch across from Brohm Lake? good call, i believe you are right. how hard are they? i figured both felt like .10a? back in 2005, a friend and i were driving to cal-cheak and we spotted them, so on the way back we parked the cars at Brohm, hiked back up the hwy 1 or 2 kms, then sent them. not knowing anything about them, except they looked significantly harder from the hwy...

^^ um, any clues?

can't figure them out?

wow, inspiring pics!! i've got my next trip planned...

and another one, north of Squamish...

here, i'll help u out w/ another shot of the last pic. this should help.

Short People is right for the third pic. the rest are WRONG!!!

notbad notbad if you are at least a weekend warrior, they weren't too hard. now i must test your skills a bit further. so here ya go... this one's not in squamish, but w/in 2 hrs max of Vancouver... and you might never get this one, EVER. . unless you climb lots in the area. but it's not in 'squamish' but still in the general area.

this is Crime...