pazzo

Below are a couple of pics of the Stadium Glaciar on Aug 6th. I brought Kahtoola Microspikes and an axe, but ascended the glacier fairly directly (further left and steeper) compared to other GPS tracks I’ve seen posted online. Without my axe I would have gone for a pretty long ride. I wish I had brought my aluminum Grivel crampons.. Here’s the line I took: And here is the glacier to the right of previous pic: I’m not sure if that helps at all.. good luck!

For the record you can get descend from the base of Perry's Layback to the ground on a single 70m *There is one steep rap in there but it's quite manageable.

Bwahah. That was FAST ^^

There is NO fine line between a talented music person and a horrible one. Unfortunately one can not say the same about art.

I’d rather FreeBASE [video:youtube]

Bwahaha. I second your opinion. Granola eating drummers We motel it in Redmond for a reasonable price. Hot showers, Wi-Fi and movies all night make for a comfortable stay.

Here’s a cool internet photo of the crux roof pitch. It’s not nearly as bad as it looks and is VERY short.

Yes you can rap off the top of the Split Pillar (and the Sword and the top of the bolt ladder for that matter) and get safely back to the ground with a single 70m rope. The Split Pillar is around 32 or 33m long if I remember correctly. Start by rappelling off the Pillar to the chains at the base. Then rap to the other lower anchors 20’ down (the bottom of the three-bolt ladder and the belay for the Left Side .12a). From there you have to make a crazy diagonal (climbers left) rappel to a belay on Genius Loci (keep your climbing shoes laced up and be careful as it is quite a sharp angle). From the belay on Genius Loci you rap diagonally left again to the p1 belay on Merci Me. From there you rap to the Flake, where you walk down. Total of five rappels and a scramble down the flake.

That fence that caught the boulder was the best part. Wow. I thought those fences were just there for show and to make the people happy.

The long sling is not required. Just clip each bolt and grab the draw and stand up on the bolt, repeat... The bolt ladder is fairly low-angle and is not hard in this fashion.

Meh. It would be a different issue if he were barefoot soloing a hard crack.

Are you familiar with the “French free” technique to get up the bolt ladder? It is about 30x faster than using aiders and won’t hold up any parties below you. You basically rack your quickdraws on your harness as if you were going to “sport” climb up the bold ladder, but instead you clip the bolt and grab the draw on the dogbone (webbing between the biners) and yard up and clip the next bolt. In between bolts for those big reaches, you step on the bolts like a ladder. You can clip every third or fourth bolt if you want, for protection, or clip every single one if you are scared. You can rest on any of the bolts by clipping the draw into your belay loop once you have yarded up to it. Easy. And best of all you don’t need to bring any extra gear than you have already brought for the Grand. The bolt ladder above the sword should take no more than two minutes to complete if done in this fashion.

Aiders? You weren’t kidding. I can honestly say I’ve never seen that on a free-climb of the Grand. Good job though.

If that

No it doesn't help. Facebook sucks and many of us aren't on it **Picture an angry mob of climbers marching down the road** PICS OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN...PICS OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN...PICS OR..........