retired

Welcome to the club...it's pretty damn small. Be proud you monsters. Turkey on the downhill south side is a legit 400'

Bill, discovered dead batteries in my camera on the hike in to Longs but Joanne had a camera and I'll post some up when she sends them.

Just back from a fine two week trip to colorado where i capped my trip by climbing the casual (yeah right) route on the diamond with my friend Joanne. this isn't a trip report however but just some photos of living climbing history...how many years of climbing in this trio..Jorge & Joanne Urioste with Fred Beckey Was lucky enough to climb with Bob Culp one day, climbing strong at 70 and moving down trails like a teenager here are Jorge Joanne and I waiting out a storm on lumpy ridge I'm a little weak with photo posting so hope this works

Looks like I screwed up the photos??? HELP!

Trip: Wolf Rock - Barad Dur Date: 6/26/2007 Trip Report: a trip report of my 10th ascent of barad dur is 4 posts lower...Thanks Tyler

I've got a couple of your biners and will gladly return them if we should meet up.

well you have to inch those ratings up little by little or you may be accused of the ultimate evil...overrating...shudder!

A great Callis story is the first ascent of hen rock in the menagerie. A group of 4 climbers including Willie Unsoeld had place a single shell bolt at the base of hens final slab but none could pull off the moves. Teenage Pat Callis with girlfriend comes strolling by and they invite hime to have a go. He fires it first time in his p.f. flyers. This slab now sports 3 bolts and is a solid 10a. What we will do to impress the gals.

Muffy, Those running up the trail days are over for me...still like to run down however. hanging out with us sure wouldn't kill you...you just might wish you were dead! Let me know if you want to climb up there someday and I'll meet you.

I believe the menagerie wilderness is actually to blame. In the old days the trees had been logged off and the south face was exposed to the sun...now the second growth has risen and the menagerie is dissapearing into a sea of green. We need more young warriors like Tyler to take over and keep the place clean or a 100 year wind storm to open things up. It was crowded up there...we saw another party. Bill we will have to get you and Joseph up there this summer.

Tyler forgot to mention that I discovered the true meaning of heartbreak on this trip...after scrubbing and bolting all day with a very sore hip from slamming into a wall on a silly fall...I arrived back at my van around 7:30 p.m. I wanted to throw up when I realized my van keys were in my pack we had stashed with gear up at rooster... another 2.2 mi 2,200 feet...and back down before my dinner...what dosen't kill us makes us stronger...I hope. 4 times up the rooster rock trail in 3 days is a record for me.

My feeling and the feeling of the asca is a hole for a hole. nothing new on Karate but worthless belays and old 1/4 inchers for sure and even many old 3/8 with bad hangers need to be upgraded. The old stuf served its purpose at the time but everything wears out eventually. Too bad old climbers can't be rebolted...instead of just rebolting...or maybe they can? I have a total of 17 screws in me with some very expensive stainless and titanium stuff too. Rest days are great...sorry for all the blab.

Good work Tyler...just talked to Greg Barnes at Red Rocks...He was wonderding what we had been up to with the asca project and I filled him in. See you soon.

Not where I am Brothers, having a cool day today...only 75. week off afer red rocks then the stronghold/Mt.Lemon. Will report back to duty mid May. clear up the weather if you could.

At last a thread i can sink my teeth into. Bill's given you great advice,monkey is the best clean aid around note clean you shouldn't be driving any Iron on the Monkey. Doubling up routes is fun and if you add a third you've climbed washingtons collum. Bubba's is my favorite route on Picnic I've topped out 5 times on it. The crux pitch is the third the way I break it up...first pitch above the big roof. I've led it clean now that's it's grown some fatties but I still use a sawed off 1" in a hole about half way up. the whole route has gone clean but I usualy nail a couple times,usually 3/4 angle somwerhe on the 4th pitch. The bolts on the travese off the end of pitch 5 are laughable...every type of crap hanger you could image all on shitty little shakey 1/4 inch studs. I don't care how much of this route get's rebolted but please leave thes historic relics and maybe just put one fattie in the middle. I was all for the rebolt of the west face but it would have been fun to leave about 2/3 of the old shit just for excitment. Have fun.

Yes Bill that's true but I was at A-51 yesterday from the east and it was beautiful, only a couple snow banks to drive thru the snow started in ernest just past the parking area we call ponderosa point. Buhlo only about 500' higher in elevation will be snowed in until May.

I have a metolius double bomb shelter but need something smaller and lighter for soloing. An old Gramicci/A-5 or (shudder) pika would work. I would even swap you my double on a temporary basis. I need the single for april & may.... p.m me jim

I do more aid climbing than mountaineering but these lightweight jobs look like they would do well for big walls or moderate snow routes. anyone have these boots or know if anyone in pdx carries them? I've seen them at mountain gear but really like to try boots on first....I wear aprox 44 if anyone has a pair to sell. Jim

I work xc races at Meadows when they have them for a pass. One of my stations as an official last winter for two different races was right at the falls...never even close to good conditions from my observations.

Tyler and I added the first asca bolts in the menagerie yesterday...a modest start but a start. I would like to systematically replace all the rawl shells with 3/8 bombers. markd I would gladly accept any bolts you have since without donations I'll basicly be paying to put a lot of the routes up twice since a lot of the shells to be replaced are mine.

Hey Tyler, I'm back from a long road trip south...let's get together...oh the bolts. does it have to be Smith? cause i know where a couple hundred could go in the menagerie, let's talk. Jim

I've heard it described as welded 3/4 minus...poorly welded I might add...Paul hope the ship arrives soon so I can muster the courage to go back up there...such a scary place with bad rock, man eating kitties and such.

I do have a 1/4 inch hand drill set up with a few hangers if you still need them...pm. me and I'll be heading thru pdx this evening

let me know and if I'm around I'll meet you there.

I'll be there tomorrow, come on out...or does it really exist???