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Everything posted by bDubyaH

  1. Little Switzerland

    PLC, There are plenty of moderate climbs in LS, so if you hook up with some competent climbers you can have loads of fun. if you decide on the guide route one good place to check is Alaska Mountaineering School in Talkeetna. But it would be sweet if you could hook up a couple of CC'rs. my $0.02
  2. How Much is Your Life Worth?

    probably not much, maybe some booty biners and some webbing, although i have left an ice screw or two, those cheap ti ones are easiest on the pocket. my question is if i was to leave the same gear as a canadian would my life be worth more since i bought said items with american money?
  3. Attention snowboarders---I need advice!

    Ultra, it's the K2 clicker then. the bishop, while a great binding will be difficult to use as a releasable since (unless you are really good in the shop) the pull is at the top of the boot, while with the K2 you can have a strap that is basically flat on the board. A couple of my friends ride this setup, including our local avy guru, but it only works if the boots fit your feet.
  4. Attention snowboarders---I need advice!

    I believe K2 Clickers work the best. As mentioned before, being avy savvy will go much further than just having gear to help you out if it does happen. That being said, releasing your board is great if you can cause they are huge anchors in a slide. Just don't let "releasable" bindings convince you it's ok to make turns in an area you wouldn't be in otherwise. cheers and happy turns!
  5. sponsorship

    I am part of a small group heading to some unclimbed 6000+ meter peaks next year. We are looking into the possibilty of sponsorship from a number of gear companies, just wondering if anyone has experience in trying to get an expedition sponsored and if so would you please share a few nuggets with me. just pm me with any detailed knowledge. thanks. bw
  6. your daily zen

    yeah, we have just started our 3 months of rain before there is any hope of snow. at least the coho are running.
  7. your daily zen

    Baker should get some in Sept or Oct, it did last year, and that was a pathetic snow year. yeah i am hopiing soon soon soon... cant wait to get some turns in!!! Are you one of those pansy snowboarders or something? bite your tongue ass hole! two planker all the way! Two planks, no heels
  8. Anybody know climbers in Fairbanks?

    Will, there are plenty of climbers running around in Fairbanks, the Granite Tors are a cool rock formation to climb. Mostly you will be heading south to climb in the AK range (which you can see from campus). Stop in a Beaver Sports to gain some local knowledge, also check out the Alaska Alpine Club. Oh yeah, be ready for the screamin/barfies ice climbing up there is freakin cold!
  9. your daily zen

    sisu, you sound like just about everyone I know. and that was not zen. it just made me mad, we had better get some good snow this year...i didn't move to ak for the rain. although we did get a dusting down to about 6000' the other day
  10. "Reeling In" a Falling Leader

    That's why I run sideways. Or just alpine climb...nowhere to run 1000' of the deck at a hanging belay.
  11. Glacier Winds?

    Taku winds, at least thats what we call them in juneau when they come ripping off the icefield.
  12. Mantras

    me thinks that if you tell yourself you are no good at something after a while you will believe it and not be anygood at that something, but if all you are doing is giving yourself a reality check i.e. if i screw this up i could die, when you are in a situation that will not be adversely affected by your self doubt, then that is good. example: i rarely tie the ends of my ropes when rapping, but i always remind myself that if i botch it i'm a gonner definitely not a false precaution in my book, if you get comfortable climbing and rapping then great, if you get sloppy then things can get ugly, particularly if you take the fast way down. on the other hand if you are soloing some ice and 300m up you start to question what you are doing and thinking that you could die, then you are not doing yourself any favors, just making it more likely that you will die. moral of the story, use your i'm gonna die mantra for thing like rapping (keeps you on top of things) not when soloing (distracts you from what you need to do and could potentially kill you)
  13. Secret Bivi Tricks

    I thought you were supposed to play the time game. Climber 1: "2.00 am?" Climber 2: "Wrong" Climber 1: "2:30 am?" Climber 2: "Wrong" If you get within 5 minutes of the actual time then climber 2 has to start guessing once a sufficient amount of time has passed. Loads of fun Or there is always cuddling to stay warm.
  14. glissading seat cushions???

    put breakables (camera) in your jacket put your legs through the arm holes of your old pack and ride it, that way you don't get swamp-ass from an hour of trying to cram snow up your butt.
  15. Secret Bivi Tricks

    Take some vitamin I for the a.m. you'r gonna be needing it . Oh, and climb for as long as you possibly can otherwise you have to sit there suffering for an even longer time trying to guess when the sun will come up so you can move again.
  16. Favorite Booze related quotes

    I'm not as think as you drunk I am.
  17. Famous last words

    "There are known knowns. These are things we know that we know. There are known unkowns. That is to say, there are things we know we don't know. But, there are also unknown unknowns. These are things we don't know we don't know. " -- (Rumsfield at a Pentagon briefing)
  18. So i was supposed to head up to the mendenhall towers , but it turns out that instead of that I will be defending my thesis. Granted it will be nice to finish 2.5 years of graduate school, but fielding 4hrs of questions from my committee definitely sucks when my buddies will be going for a first ascent . And to make matters worse I get those lame condolences such as...the mountains will always be there. Whoever thought that one up never climbed a day in their sorry flatland life. So next week when you are out climbing just think about me sitting at my desk gettin ready for a final exam almost 3 years in the making . ok pity party over, climb on.
  19. the not-yet list

    second pitch of heinous cling...puts the sport back into sport climbing, really hard to get back on after the huge fall.
  20. Koflach Arctis Expe sizing question?

    i have a pair in size 11.5 and usually wear that size. they are too big for me, which is fine for slogging all day, but they are sloppy when the route gets vertical creates calf pump and numb toes. go to the store and pull the liner out, put your foot in the shell. get the shell that has 1.5-2 fingers of space behind your heel with your toes just barely touching the front. then you can adjust liners or get thermofits that will work best with your feet. the right shell size will help hold your heels in tight.
  21. La Sportiva Extreme S boots?

    my buddy wore a pair for 10 days in little switzerland, ak. they worked great and if you lay down some duct tape between the toe box and where your gators end they stay a bit dryer if the glacier is getting slushy.
  22. Denali airplane crash

    This is a hard hit for Talkeetna, my condolences. crash
  23. Old guy on top

    There has been a bit of a weather bottleneck this year. lots of teams are doing the summit journey right now, so hopefully there will not be any accidents. one of my good friends summited yesterday and sent a sliothar (ball) into oblivion, with his Hurley (think Irish baseball/lacrosse).
  24. stickers?

    gregm, i really like that last one
  25. let's Play...

    trees are aid