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Posts posted by cook
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If anyone can resize these images or tell me how, please do
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Here are some photos finally.
Scrambling up the entrance gully
Longpause Nearing the top of the gully
Longpause At the notch on top of the gully
More scrambling
Longpause kickin it, with Ingalls lake in the background
Traversing some goat/ human paths
The lyger rests. Here she made a deal with gyselinck where he would carry a rock if she gave him a sandwich
Gyselinck hanging out on the rad ice/loose rock ledge. Here we roped up for the last few pitches to the top
Gyselinck leading the cruxish pitch just below the summit
Lyger and Longpause descending in excellent weather
Gyselinck taking advantage of a break in the fog to find the way down. Note the magic box around his neck
Longpause and the Lyger soggy on the descent. Note the one mitten technique.
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We didn't see any goats, but saw lots of droppings.
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No forking on this trip Layton, someone tried to slip some pills in my drink, but I was having none of it.
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Climb: Mt. Stuart-West Ridge
Date of Climb: 7/10/2005
Trip Report:
On sunday Craig (Gyselinck), Liz (Lyger), Kat (Longpause), and I climbed the west ridge of Mt. Stuart. We left Ellensburg on saturday night and camped near the trail down from longs pass, just across from the creek near where the cascadian would spit us out the next day. After a dinner of cheese, wine, and canned chili, we caught a few hours of sleep before waking up at 4am.
We left camp at 4:30 and were approaching the entrance gully when it started getting light. The weather was cool with some high clouds and even some blue sky to the west.
The gully climbing was fun and straightforward and not too exposed. We saw many one man bivy sites and a few rap slings on the way up.
Eventually we came to the top of the gully at a notch and got a look down another possibly entry onto the route, which looked like slush covered rock and loose crap.
From here we traversed over a rib and below Long John Tower where an easy but exposed class 5 section led us around the tower.
From behind Long John Tower we began traversing west below the ridge crest for several hours while the weather slowly began to suck. The traverse to the summit notch was less interesting and more complicated. We followed a series of discontinuous climber/ goat paths over several "minor ribs" to the summit notch. During this time, Gyselinck continually whined that he was looking for more burly adventure. This was obviously a cover for his overwhelming fear. I guess he's just not as tough as most people.
At the notch, we intended to scramble as much as possible, but a slick ice ledge prompted us to pull out the rope. The final few pitches were thankfully not "lot's of fourth class terrain covered by a shitload of unconsolidated slop" as JayB reported in June, conditions here were much improved. Gyselinck led the way as we simul climbed and belayed the odd pitch to the summit.
The final pitch was a left facing corner that Gyselinck recalled being "really scary in crampons and in a whiteout" that ended up being thirty feet of awkward 5.8. Since Gyselinck is like 30 feet tall, the rest of us had trouble following the opening move so Longpause stood on my shoulders to reach a key hold. This was probably my favorite move I've done in the mountains.
We didn't stay long on the summit because it was raining/snowing and we couldn't see far so I tossed a piece of cheese down south from the summit and headed east.
Guided by carins and craig's magic box (GPS) we later found the piece of cheese and immediatly Craig shoved it in his mouth, snarling at anyone who made a move to take it from him. Eventually we made our way to the cascadian in low visibility and after a knee aching descent we arrived back at our camp where we packed our bivy gear and headed back to the car.
Good route except for the crap weather and the soggy descent.
There is an exposed snow section just below the summit and snow at the top of the cascadian. Ice axe was very useful.
Thanks for a good trip guys and thumbs down to Lyger and Longpause for spooning in the tent while Gyselinck and I were spoonless in the dirt.
Gear Notes:
Ice axe
Gear for two rope teams of two
Could have used more than 1 liter of water (had to bum off of others)
Edited to add that photos should be up this afternoon
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I second the Boxtop idea, there is so much great climbing in that area. If I were in your situation, I'd also climb the high priest.
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you didn't ruin the thread,
its all I ever hoped it would be!
and even more
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Layton, I'll still drink with you
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# 20 is for you Gyselinck
# 19 is for you Darth Vader
Layton, that was a good one. I met you the other day at Lyger's
. We should drink again sometime
#52 Bury her in the grain Wayne
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Nice job. I think we saw you two descending dragontail on sunday evening. That thunder storm hit while we were still on Asgaard, which was annoying.
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At whom were you pointing?
At Gyselinck, of course
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Sorry there is no perspective on size, I was too busy prepping my bow and arrow for the kill.
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to gyselinck for leading hard scary pitches in the snow and
to L0ngpause for not spooning with me in the bivy. Nice job guys
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Good pictures and nice job. I did this route spring of last year and thought it was fun. Try to get some more photos up.
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Found an Ironman triathlon watch halfway up the south face of the tooth on saturday. It is black and kind of roughed up.
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Cook wants to go.
Driving to said rock is also neither.
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I'll climb with you, I lead 5.13 and follow 5.14a. I can also boulder V31.
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Holy Moses What A Woman!
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thats why i don't like cats, they are a liability
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I couldn't believe it either. I did some research and this is what I came up with.
http://www.ppsa.com/magazine/NMtimeline.html
I think they are out of volcanoes, but they have some breweries.
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Longpause,
You must be an ignorant fool to use dark matter as a means of travel in this atmosphere. You should know that with the recent eruption of Mt St Helens, there is too much ash in the air for such a thing to work. Next time do your research, I won't always be here to bail you out.
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Queenstown, NZ is meant to be super cool
[TR] Mt. Stuart- West Ridge 7/10/2005
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
I figured it out