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cook

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Posts posted by cook

  1. As far as trad routes go, people do all of the things you mentioned. You can practice on toprope or just pick a climb that looks like it has gear and try it with or without doing some research first. Much of what you do depends on the the climb itself. For FA's on multipitch climbs you are at some point going to have to continue without knowing the terrain. If the gear is good though, you can always aid up tough parts and possibly have to bail.

     

    As far as mercury and water go, you just have to make a nonsensical reply. Its funny.

  2. Climb: Guye Peak-Improbable Traverse

     

    Date of Climb: 8/23/2005

     

    Trip Report:

    Yesterday (Tuesday), I left the unpaid internship 5 1/2 hours early and called Gyselinck to maybe go to exit 32 or 38. He suggested the Improbable traverse. We met in North Bend at 1:15 to leave a car and sort our hastily packed crap.

     

    We started hiking just before 2 and made good time on the talus slope. At the tip of the rockslide, we scrambled/ climbed for as long as we were comfortable and then roped up.

     

    Gyselinck led a near 60 meter pitch to lunch ledge. Then I led the traverse in two pitches, clipping two fixed pins, one old sling, and placing some small stoppers.

     

    At the end of the traverse, I led as far as I could up the loose gully. Gyselinck followed and led to the top of the gully where we unroped and easily scrambled to the summit by around 5pm.

     

    The descent was uneventful, we scrambled the ridge until reaching the trail on cave ridge. I had heard horror stories of this descent, but had the benefeit of gyselinck having come down Guye twice before.

     

     

    Me leading the traverse

    3146Improbable_Traverse-med.jpg

     

    Gyselinck at the mid traverse belay

    3146Improbable_Traverse_Belay-med.jpg

     

    Gyselinck scrambling and hiking ramps to the summit

    3146Near_Guye_Summit-med.jpg

     

    Gear Notes:

    Medium Rack, did not use large pieces

  3. No drugs on this trip Lyger, but it does sound like we went climbing in fairy tale land. Note: Gyselinck's hot date was not Cook, it was his mom, but she bailed. Also: we did not go climbing in fairy tale land, it was actually tough guy land. Those landmarks were mislabled in the Beckey guide. It is actually, hell mountain, flaming feces creek, stinging of death pass, and the tower of infinite pain and moss.

  4. Well Lyger I suppose that I'll accept said apology. Mostly, I'm glad you said that you're a little sorry, because we don't want to get carried away here. I gues now I can stop the string of broken hearted extreme solos I've been undertaking.

  5. This photo was taken looking straight down at Gyselinck at the top of the first pitch. From here, climb class 4 trees and heather to the belay.

    3146top_of_pitch_1-med.jpg

     

    Gyselinck leading the crux third pitch

    3146start_of_pitch_3-med.jpg

     

    Toppling tower. The descent is via the obvious gully in the center. The route Becky describes traverses left along the tree band and then ascends the ridge that is blocked by the tall tree.

    3146untitled3-med.jpg

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