sill
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Posts posted by sill
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The real plus about the climbing around Boulder is the access. You can get off work at 5 pm and be climbing pretty soon after that, usually in awsome weather all winter long. Still no crag in Colorado is as good as Squamish, but there are some pretty good ones that I will settle with that are just a few minutes down the road. I learned to climb in the PNW and and now dwell in my truck in Co. If you want to climb pretty much everyday then places like Boulder are the place. We might have a shit load of ass bags to deal with at the crags out here, but the NW as a nice share as well, I'm shure most of you guys have dealt with it in Leavenworth on a weekend in the fall.
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Most everthing still available. I've got to get rid of this shit asap. Make an offer.
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Got a bunch of PMs for the Sheild Harness. I think it is pretty much sold. Someone make an offer on the other shit, prices are very negotiable.
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I've got to get rid of this shit. Someone make an offer on this stuff.
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Bunch of Stuff for Sale. I will pay shipping costs from Co.
La Sportiva Nepal Extremes-sz 42 (9)- $150-used a season and a half, still in very good shape.
Scarpa Alpha-sz 9-$150-still in good condition
Mammut Champ Pants-sz med-$150-brand new-never worn
Yates Sheild Harness-sz med-$65-Never Used (really)
North Face Caber Hybrid Jkt-Gtx-sz med-$150-Red w/black panels. Still in plastic with tags. Retails for about $300.
Prices are negotiable to a certain extent. Like I said, I will pay UPS ground unless you live somewhere on the Front Range in Co, then either you pay it or you come and get it. Someone buy my shit.
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Bruce Miller is a bad mother fucker, probably one of the most talented all-rount climbers I have ever known. He lost a partner in the mountains not to long ago and didn't want it to happen again. From the account that I heard, Steve House was a little worse off than he described in the article.
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North Face Caber Jkt, Sz M, Red/Black
-Brand new, still has tags and in plastic
-$200 OBO
Mammut Castor Pants, sz M, carbon/black-really nice shoeller pants with internal gaitor
-brand new, still have tags on them
-$200 OBO
Scarpa Alpha Boots, Sz 9
-used but in very good condition, havn't used much in last year or so.
-$175
I will pay shipping if that counts for anything.
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The route is super cool, I was able to do it last Sunday. Awsome long pitches. The climbing was only junky in a couple spots. Not as hard as I thought it would be, but still really cool. We didn't take enough pins though, only took three. Ranks up with the Talisman as my favorite ice/mixed route in Colorado.
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I second what everyone else has said. The weight and money you save on them is cancelled out by the lack of duribility and the time it takes to place them. Funny thing is that they will probably break while you are placing them so you won't have to rely on one of them for pro.
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Wunsch's is even better. It took me a second try to get the crux clean but it is way better than the center route. The approach is cake compared to other areas in Colorado, particularly estes park. People from boulder bitch if they have to walk for more than ten minutes to the base of the their route.
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It looks a lot like last summer up there but without the smoke from all the fucking forest fires, not yet at least. Topping out on climbs with a headache from the smoke pretty much sucks ass. Good weather for rock routes though, as long as they're not falling apart while you are on them.
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I agree with the above statement. If you need a topo for PC then you probably don't need to be climbing it. All the Belays/raps are fixed and pretty obvious.
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Start at base of obvious long waterfall, go right at big hanging piller about midway. follow ice to top, rap route with two ropes.
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Bridwell, and he still regualarly gets tickets for throwing his pig off el cap
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So what gear of his have you used? Probably a lot, since you're so sure that it works so well. Spill the beans.
You don't seem to get it. BEING A GOOD CLIMBER DOESN'T MAKE YOU A GOOD DESIGNER. Indeed, being a 'cool guy' and/or 'the real deal' doesn't make you a good designer, either. I don't care what he's climbed, all it does is make a marketable image for his products.
I have used the pack and the m-pants since the middle of January. The pack is great because it is super light, climbs well and accomadates both leashed and leasless tools, something that is good for me since I climb with both, depending on the route. The pack also has enough capacity to use on multiday routes or ski tours. It does have one or two uneeded extra's, but I just cut them off. The pants are the best of the type that I have used. I wore them on every ice/mixed route I climbed since I got them, probably spent about 25-30 days in them from mid january until late march. They are definately warmer than other stretch woven pants, they kept me comfortable on a very cold day on the Stanley Headwall this past winter. As someone said, the prices are high because he is trying to get the stuff produced locally, unlike Wild Things or similar companies who farm out to Asia. Fabrizio also has a new glove coming out next year that is going to be far and away better than anything out there, altough it is hard to beat a cheap pair of Atlas work gloves at this point for mixed climbing. I climb a lot more than most, so I am pretty fucking poor. This means I just don't go out and buy stuff on a whim, I buy it because it works. Do I "get it" now?
J. J. Sill
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"The Magic Line is owned by Fabrizio Zangrilli and is based in Boulder, Colorado" - from website
Boulder = image = marketing = $$$ (e.g Nuptse alpine pack = $315, "m jacket" = $315) maybe fabrizios alfa romeo lease is $315/mo
we shall assume these products to be of the highest quality, but will never afford to know
I second what Lambone said. I have run into Fabrizio many many times over the last two winters while I have lived and and climbed in Ouray and he has been very cool to be around whether he was guiding in the ice park or climbing with his friends. He is definately the real deal. For you to bag on him without even knowing a thing about him is a complete joke. He has been up K2 as well as the peaks Lambone mentioned and is a very stong all around climber from what I have seen. The gear he is producing comes from his own experience in alpine climbing, unlike most gear companies these days. Yeah, the stuff is expensive, but it is no more expensive and works much better than the some of crap that's out there. One other thing, the training info on his website is really good for anyone wanting to formulate a more stuctured training regime for themselves.
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Bellingham probably fits the bill better for the things you listed. Ouray is pretty good in the summer though. Mountaineering in surrounding peaks, tons of rock climbing-sport climbing in town(good granite in Unaweep Canyon, and long routes in the Black Canyon) and awsome spring skiing (powder skiing until early may last year), no real social life though. If you can figure out a way to work, Canada is the way to go.
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leavenworth might be good, lots of rock and alpine
After living in Ouray, Levenworth will weem cosmopolitan, a pretty scary thought.
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Hey glassgokiss, does the strain get climbed very often in the late winter or spring. I had always thought of it as a fall route. After seeing the condition the lower couloir was in last fall after a hot and dry summer I was thinking to myself that maybe spring might make better. What do you think?
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what are you talking about? The cool routes in Rocky Mountain National Park form up at the end of September, Smear of Fear, Feilds Chimney, Alexanders. A friend of mine climbed the Smear in September last fall.
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The ice is generally still very good most places in the San Juans. The very cold temps of last week, -10 to -20 at night, have given way to pretty mild weather the last few days. The ice park is still very good, but the cold weather of the last couple of weeks have made the ice pretty spooky for leading. I saw two pretty big leader falls in the lead only area of the park, while I was in the bottom of the gorge getting ready to lead out, last Saturday. They happened within about fifteen minutes of each other. The ice in the park generally has quite a bit of air in it, so watch your pro and use long screws when you can. The backcountry ice is about as good as it's going to get this winter.
Ouray
Camp Bird Road
-Most of the climbs at the skylight area are in, but thinner than usual, like the Skylihgt route.
-The Ribbon-In, but you have to be pretty certain about snow conditions
-Birdbrain Boulevard-pretty much just a rock climb this year, no ice
-Talisman-has seen some ascents, but the climbing is full on, first pitch may have sublimated away after very cold weather
Hwy 550
-Horsetail Falls-In pretty fat, probably a 3+ at the moment
-Gravity's Rainbow, Abraxus, Kennedy's Gully-They were all in and climbed the 11th,12th,13th by several parties and then melted out this past weekend.
Hwy550 North of town
Dexter Slabs-In, this is a good moderate climb with now real avy danger
Silverton-
All the popular routes are in and being climbed quite a bit. Snow conditions have been good but will probably change with next weather system moving through tonight.
Telluride-
Ames Ice Hose-Contrary to popular belief this route is still in and going strong, I climbed it Sunday and it was outstanding. We took the mixed rock start on the first picth, which offers awsome pick torques, dry tool edges and hand jams. The direct start could probably go but it would be of the x-rated variety. I climbed the direct start in December and it was thin and 5+/6 then and has much less ice now.The second pitch is the money, good steep ice pulling chockstones with stemming onto rock for feet in places, protected with small cams screws, and two fixed pins. The last pitch is 60 meters of steep brittle ice with no real rests. Best ice/mixed route I've done in the area this year. If your in the area this one should be on the top of your list.
-Howards Fork-Vince Anderson is putting up some new bolted mixed routes in this small area. The ice is steep and pretty hooked out in places but the routes that are there are pretty good.
-Bridalviel Falls-Seeing a lot more action as the winter has gone on. First two pitches are steep and in the 5+/6 range. Get an early start on both bridal viel and the ice hose so you don't get scooped.
I hope this info is useful for people.
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Sold as of 2/1
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Page top. someone buy my tools, they're in great shape and I'm giving a screaming deal on them. TimL and Stebbi can vouch for me.
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Yeah I'm back in Colorado for the winter. Did you quite your job? Climbing has been pretty good so far this winter. I send you an e-mail. I will be around Canmore for about two weeks starting on feb 23. Some one buy my shit. I got to get rid of these tools, it's a screamin deal.
Hasta Luego
in Climber's Board
Posted
Quit your bitchen and get out of here already. Really though, take it easy man, enjoy all that bullit limestone over there. See you down the road.
J. J.