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sill

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Posts posted by sill

  1. Gloves from the hardware store are great for leashless climbing, I use them all the time. Most of the time though they are pretty hard to get dried out when they get wet. I have to take a few pairs with me if I want my hands to stay dry. For long routes windstopper material gloves are great, they dry out when you shove them inside of your jacket and they aren't to expensive.

  2. RR is probably overhyped, but you can pretty much depend on having great weather. It's sunny in the winter and spring in Vegas when many other places are unclimbable. Peope who exclusively sportclimb try to bag on the climbing at RR, but in reality it is quite good, they really don't know what they are talking about. There is a lifetime of climbing, both trad and sport at RedRocks. My two cents

  3. Yeah, this is total bullshit. The word is that chuck didn't place the new set of bolts, some other fucking moron did. Chuck is a complete tea-bagger, but apparently one of his buddy's is guilty this time. The shitty thing is that they are Petzl long life type bolts and they are not easily removed without damaging the rock. Someone really put a lot of effort into placing these bolts, it's gonna take some effort in getting them out I guess. Once the culprit is identified, they'll get their tires slashed just like chuck did. On the bright side, it is a stellar season so far in Ouray/Telluride for ice. The high temps have been in the teens for the last week, so come down and get after it.

  4. You're right, they are pretty much based on the russian ice fifi that you see getting used at the speed comps. They don't have much weight to them, like the monstgers, so I really don't see how they'd be that great for real swingen, probably good for kids though. The icefests at climbing gyms seem to be a good way of getting people together for shmack talk and boozin, but do people get anything out of the gear demos when they arn't swinging ice tools into real ice? I'm not trying to be critical, I was just wondering.

  5. A lot of people bag on it, but it's a pretty fun event. The folks who run it work there asses off. You kinda just got to see it for what it really is, a big party. If you really wan't to get any climging in, arrive about four or five days in advance of the icefest. By the weekend it is just too crowded everywhere to get anything done. Donini in a dress was a fucking riot, but the teenage girls dance team was the shit.

  6. Moderately heated. It is a good place to cook and dry your shit out. If you have a truck or a van, it is better to sleep in it in the parking lot-as not to get harrassed by the RCMP. Sleeping in your vehicle in Field isn't quite as cold as Canmore or Banff. All of this assumes a low profile.

  7. The ice in Field is probably the best, most consistant ice of varying difficulty levels in BC. Field is cheap to stay in as well. You can squat in the visitors center-which is my preferred bivy spot.

  8. I'm going through the same thing right now, laid up with a knee injury. It's amazing how many books you can go through when you've got time on your hands.

     

    Bringing Down the House- a good story

     

    Let My People Go Surfing

     

    The brand new book by Bob Woodward about the Irag War- it's supposed to be really good- I think it's called State of Denial?

  9. Yeah, the bolt got chopped only a couple days after it was placed. In my opinion, this guy deserved and still deserves all the harrassment that can be thrown at him,just so he doesn't do it again. He's a complete jackass for placing it. How he got the idea in his head in the first place is a mystery.

  10. To this day, the guy still says he was doing the right thing, his justification was pretty lame. He paid the price in the end though. Vince posted the dude's email address and phone number on the internet which led to the guy getting harassing phone calls and emails for quite a while.

  11. Why waste a bunch of money driving around chasing ice in the PNW that doesn't regularly come into shape. The Rockies are only a days drive from Seattle. You can get more climbing milage in weekend up there than you can in a season in Wash or Oregon. This is only true if you don't have any border issues of course

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