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Everything posted by DanO

  1. To Montypiton I have been thinking of pertex and pile/fleece for general clothing and getting light silnylon pants and jacket for when it is really raining hard. Any opinion on silnylon rain gear? I like the light weight. Do you have any other rain gear that you recomend? Thinking of something to put on when raining hard, otherwise use the more very breathable gear. However if you know of more heavy rain gear that stays on all the time I would check that too, thanks for any information. I have not found much of non breathable rain gear made for hiking, but seen a cargoule by serria designs that may work. Would prefer something can use with gear and harness but am considering anything. Have a thought to use a campmor silnylon poncho as well, pros and cons for most everything. Thanks
  2. I really like thin merino wool for base layer, wool is warm when damp. Warmer than many nsulators wet, fleece/pile are almost as warm and synthetic puffys are likely warmer when wet or at least as warm wet, nothing soaking wet is that warm. The thing about wool is it is heavy, heavier wet and drys really slow. I may circle back to wool again but for now I use it for a base layer and it works great for this role for me. However, I sometimes bring a mid weight merino wool zipper neck sweater, it is that or fleece/pile. With synthetics you have a chance to dry them out in a sleeping bag, almost no chance with a lot of wet wool, that is my experience. Thanks
  3. Further, If I was going to build a wet weather quilt, it would have a semi breathable material for the inner. Enough to let normal body moisture travel out while sleeping and SOME more to dry clothing but not too much to overwhelm insulation. The outer material super breathable and then use a event bivy sack. Likely better to use a synthetic insulation quilt but I have down for now, need it over rated for wet weather. I myself would prefer a rating around 0 to 10 degrees, you need that extra warmth for drying clothing. Alternatively, Make a sleeping bag with the same semi breathable material on the inside with super breathable outside material, best would be Event for the outside. Either down or synthetic, but synthetic is likely better if wetness did get in, but either would work, depends on preference, down is my favorite if it works. Since I have a Event bivy sack(check out the Borah gear Event bivy, best deal on a Event bivy that I have seen to date) And I have goose down quilts, I ordered a Tyvek bivy sack,(Tera Rosa Gear) very simply made and very light at 5.5 ounces to try out as my semi breathable vapor barrier inner sack. Plan, craw into Tyvek sack, and then get into down quilt and Event Bivy. Get warm and then fan out moisture from time to time until manageable, then sleep while drying wet clothing. As you can imagine you want a overrated sleeping quilt to do this. So I am using a zero degree down quilt when dumping rain. Will it work? most Likely, but unknown by me, as it is untested, so will test at home. I put clothing and sleeping gear in waterproof sacks, what is the opinion about back pack covers? Sort of hard to use with gear on the outside, such as ice axes and snowshoes, Opinions? Any pack cover out there much better than the rest? I have not used pack covers to date.
  4. Thanks Everyone, I suppose the goal is to be warm and wet rather than wet and cold, mo matter what system. The pile and pertex system from the UK depends on making a micro climate at the skin that is dryer and is pumping the wetness out by body heat, works if your moving, warm and hopefully not overheating. If not moving then in camp inside a pile pertex sleeping bag drying out, or drying out with some other equivalent bag of some type. I guess a modern version of non breathable hard shell rain gear that would work is something made out of silnylon. Rain jacket and bibs. Using minim amount of clothing, wet with some sweat, this seems like a good option when out there for a long time. If the rain stops you dry the inner layers super fast by taking the outer layer off. You can put on some other kind of outer layer if needed while drying Some options, gear out of pertex or event or equivalent and wear the lest amount of clothing possible. Can keep on pertex or Event or equivalent and dry out that way. Maybe a better system for off and on hard showers and for general usage??? I myself don't mind wearing a merino wool base layer if warm enough in the rain as I tend to run hot and sweaty anyway. At camp to hang up what you don't want to dry and use bedding to dry out what you can dry or want to dry. I myself would prefer to dry out as much as I can, as in most everything. I have experienced a semi breathable vapor barrier inside a sleeping bag and it works really well, Stephenson's triple bags work this way. With a way over rated bag, you get warm and then fan out the moisture from time to time as you warm up. When moisture gets low enough you just sleep and dry things out over time. Wool is hard to dry in a sleeping bag but polyester does well. I am considering the hard shell non breathable, verses Event with pile/fleece, verses pile with pertex systems. I am also thinking of instead of pile/fleece clothing is mesh clothing. Or maybe some odd combination of all the systems. If I was going to get a synthetic sleeping bag I would want the inner layer to be of some sort of breathable vapor barrier, something like gore tex in effect and let the outer layer breath completely, IE very breathable material. I have a Event bivy and would use that in the combo. The Event bivy is super breathable and won't hardly restrict the moisture coming out the total system. With unlimited time, money and most importantly will I would test all possibilities. Maybe I will do so to some extent but for me to do so would take several years. I already have a good bit of gear and will use that while picking up more stuff here and there and see what works for me. Recently I have been renewing the outer DWR layer on outer clothing, giving it new life for awhile. Using Atsko water proofer, it seems to work fairly well. I will have some sort of semi breathable vapor barrier inside my sleeping bag or quilt, either down or synthetic. Good chance I make up a synthetic quilt as I want someday. By semi breathable I mean waterproof but somewhat breathable, something like a lower breathable waterproof jacket material. I am kind of thinking of a pertex wind shirt and pants along with a silnylon hard shell to put over that for poring rain. But still thinking. Still thinking and researching. Thanks
  5. The best ultralight tent for climbing

    Very nice tent, on a lower budget silnylon tarps, rectangular or square can do a lot of variations and be fairly lightweight. The light bivy sack and light weight tarp combo gives a lot of options. One can fold a larger tarp into a enclosed pyramid shape for one or two people for harsh weather or have it unfolded for better weather and lower down situations and for more people. And you can carry your light bivy sack up on summit day for an emergency bivy. One can get a larger silnylon tarp and a good light bivy sack for about 400$ or less or a little more depending what you get... at a weight of about double that cuben super tent... But still not that heavy at 3 pounds or so. Maybe in a few years cuben will drop in price....
  6. Gatewood cape for sale

    I have a Gatewood cape and inner fly for sale, full price on both is $135 plus 120$ plus tax and shipping. I will sell both for $120. In very good condition, only used two times. http://www.sixmoondesigns.com/raingear/GatewoodCape.html http://www.sixmoondesigns.com/nettents/Serenity.html It is very good for lite weight hiking and camping with rain protection in combination. I decided I like a bivy sack better for what I do. Thanks Dan
  7. Trip: Buckner - Out of Horseshoe basin and back. Date: 8/13/2016 Trip Report: Hot and buggy, lots of flies not so many mosquitoes. We wanted to do Buckner from Sahale glacier but no overnight permits to camp at the glacier. I imagine many more will be forced onto this route choice after failing to get a Sahale glacier camping permit. However later in the season it seems a good enough option as the snow looked thin for the traverse from Sahale glacier to Buckner and back. But we did see a party of three doing it, couldn't tell how they did it though? Coming out of Horseshoe basin is a bushwhack and rock scramble upward. The bushwhack is only semi difficult if you go the best way. It is best to use a GPS with tracking to find your way back or use cairns or flagging. We left a few cairns, but sill had to use GPS back tracking to find our way back down. Once above the bushwhack area in the green belt and the upper scree fields the going went well, not that bad. As your moving toward the mountain we went up the second left hand snow field (that looked good). We climbed the mountain left to right on the snow, had a rock section in between snow sections where we kept the crampons on. The snow was steep, not extremely steep but close. We used one ice axe and one trekking pole without basket up and down with no protection. Coming down at 3pm the soft snow had my full attention, and I wondered how self arrest would work out so I went down slowly face in, my partner went faster face out. A trekking pole with no basket works pretty well in one hand, just extent it far and it goes in the snow deeper than a ice axe, ice axe in other hand. The upper rock scramble above the snow at the point we went up was easy 3rd class. Plenty of water on route. When got back down to the lower bushwhack and rock scramble it was getting dark. We were not that fast up and down and also got a late start about a hour+ after daylight, so ended up on the bushwhack rock section at dark and unable to tell where to go exactly and had to use the backtrack feature on the GPS. At full dark we decided to Bivy as we thought it too dangerous to continue in the dark. It was a shiver bivy, I had a backpack with it's support foam to lay on and a bivy sack. my partner only had his clothes. In the morning with our GPS backtracking and cairns it was fairly easy to find our way down back the way we went. Going up, when starting out. Looking at the climbers right side of the upper basin We went up at the upper part of the basin at about the lower part of the snow field--located at the creek. Start out right above a waterfall creek and moving upward then left on a bench toward a upper waterfall creek. Again-starting out you scramble up and left, ie go up some and move left on a large rocky bench, keep moving left on broad bench to somewhere before a waterfall, then move diagonally up and slightly to the right, having rock and/or bush whacking how much each depending where you go. About 60% of the way up you cross a creek while moving diagonally right and then keep moving diagonally right (and up) upward on mostly 3rd with a few 4th class rock sections of rock with vegetation. Keep moving up and you run into nice open fields. When at the upper end of Horse shoe basin it is fairly easy to see this route, I would not do the tree filled ridge lower down the basin that one guide book seems to indicate. Just look at the rock and you can see a sort of zig zag pattern. Up first then left on bench, then up up and slightly moving to the right, look for the rock. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, rope and a little pro if anyone shaky on semi steep snow (not super steep, but had my attention) or on low level rock scrambling. GPS with tracking is nice, some minimal bivy gear just in case if possibility of moving slow. Approach Notes: Bugs in the basin, the higher you camp the better it is to get out of the bugs.
  8. It is difficult to know and remember where to draw the exact best route up, so look closely yourself on the way.
  9. Gatewood cape for sale

    I forgot to put in my email wretyduf@rocketmail.com Thanks Dan
  10. Just a heads up Mystery Ranch has a climbing pack, unlike many climbing packs it has a real frame and it is adjustable. That means easier to get a good fitting pack and it should carry a load better. Cons, may be not as good when climbing and have extra weight. I decided to try it out to give my shoulders a break for awhile. I still have a sack like climbing pack that I can use. I have the Pitch 55 and I am in the initial use testing phase. Two other packs I would consider to own is the Pitch 40, and the Ravine for mountaineering. I have no connection with the company. http://www.mysteryranch.com/Packs/Mountain
  11. Mystery ranch climbing pack.

    I have done some climbing with the pack and it did well for me. I have no way to compare it to the other major brands, but I like it. Dan
  12. Trip: Whitehorse - Date: 7/30/2016 Trip Report: Don't underestimate the hike in, it is a semi bushwhack with many climber trails and different ways to go. I did not run into much devil's club though. It is a work out. Mid July, there was water at the 4000ft pool with it's campsite above, it is mud by July 30. There is a small stream of water running down the trail a ways below the now gone pool of water. It has a couple of small catch basins made out of mud, don't know how long it will last. Above Lone tree pass up high along the ridge line there is a meadow at about 5000 feet, good camping. No water there at July 30. Little water there mid July, may be good water there early July?? It is a 4 foot by 3 foot dug out mud hole made to collect water. There is water at bear lake, that should last the whole summer season, but you have to lose a lot of elevation to camp there. Most would not want to do it. After you drop down the back side of the mountain, high pass is the third major gully that looks like a pass. At July 30 there is a patch of snow about 30 feet wide 50 feet long that has nice water RIGHT before high pass (at around 5000ft). I guess it will last the summer season?? There is also a small hidden stream of water right before this patch of snow in the same area right before high pass. We found some hairy scrambling on a rock line before high pass, probably there is a better way than we went, beware of blindly following climber trails. At the ridge line at high pass there is only enough room for a single one man tent and one bivy sack and be semi comfortable. Not enough room for a two man tent, could try but very uncomfortable--if possible. Could be more spots for a few more bivy sacks, but not comfortable. There is snow to melt at high pass, could tent camp at the glacier at high pass, but not flat glacier, may want to bring a tool to make a flat spot. If you hike from high pass up the glacier about 200 yard there is water running on rocks that you may be able to get too, there is a gap between rock and snow that varies. Likely want a rope. Snow does not firm up much over night, may want some pickets, we use ski poles for pickets. Also there are some places where you can use to belay from, via between the rock and snow. Mountaineer's belay worked well. No ice on glacier where we went, we had no use for ice screws. Did not summit, went to the right of mountain and climbed a rock ridge section above the steep snow. We were climbers right of the mountain on a rock ridge. No tracks on snow to show us where to go from high pass. Camped at high pass, very enjoyable, had good weather. Bivy sack great to see stars at times in between the fog/clouds, the high light of the climb for me. I was toasty warm with a 20 degree bag in a bivy sack with all my clothes. In July through Aug+ or so, there are bugs in the cascades from 3000 ft to 5000ft or so... It can be bad or only semi bad. We had bugs but only semi bad for us. The hike in and climb is likely better early season with lots of snow. It is better to do the climb in dry conditions during summer. The likely hood of falling down and get busted up is much higher with wet rock, grass and mud. Gear Notes: Pack light no more than 35 lbs unless you want to suffer. Ice axe and crampons, if you bring rope bring some snow protection of some sort. Water is harder to find after mid July.
  13. ultralight down quilt or sleeping bag?

    I think part of the equation is how you sleep, if you naturally sleep in a position that is good for a sleeping bag then it works pretty well. If you splay out limbs and thrash some then a quilt may be better. I think on average a quilt is better for moderately warm conditions rather than the really cold. I prefer a quilt or a zipped open sleeping bag when not in really cold conditions. A bivy sack or a single man tent can help hold the drafts down on the sides when using a quilt. I have a Jacks are Better two person quilt that is made well, not sure if it is wide enough for two, no field experience yet. I suspect it will be good for summer alpine with light belay coats for the occasional draft. For cold weather I suspect we (wife and I) need another system or a another quilt in combination(two quilts laying over each other in the middle or attached together) to be warm enough for us. A lot of sleeping needs is individual specific, and how hardman you want to go for a particular trip out. Quilts seem lighter for a given temp rating by the manufacturers, I wonder if there is a lower end in temp that a quilt works well enough as compared to a sleeping bag.
  14. Less than one year old, in good condition, no rips or tears. New $210 with shipping, size of backpack is regular. Good for medium weight loads, very good design backpack for climbing. It is designed to use a sleeping pad as the back support(large sleeve for pad), very convenient for emergency bivy. However, for me the length of the backpack was too short as I have a extra long torso. Will sell for $100 cash, or best offer. A great chance to pick up a climbing backpack. I am located 1.5 hour drive north of Seattle on Interstate 5. Mount Vernon WA. Email, wretyduf@rocketmail.com Or call 360 333 3709 Website for cold cold world. http://www.coldcoldworldpacks.com/chernobyl.htm Dan
  15. Sold, thanks CC forum. Dan
  16. 2015/2016 Washington Ice Conditions

    NWAC put avy danger high thur but moderate fri, but still dumping rain and snow, I thought danger shouldn't change downward that quick if still dumping. Figured also most ice washed away. Bailed on the trip. Learned via partner 20 min later after bail the road up the pass closed due to avy danger. Another time....
  17. 2015/2016 Washington Ice Conditions

    Thinking of heading to franklin falls on Friday and or Alpintal , first time there for me . What chances for ice and is avy danger there exceptional? Thanks
  18. New Climber needs some shoe help

    If buying new the general rule is to try on all you can and then pick the best one that suits your needs. Most would be better off with summer boots for their first boots for summer mountaineering. One could go to several stores in Seattle try all the boots and then select, find out the return policy before buying. Buying online is more likely to leave u with poor fitting boots.
  19. I have not used a vest much for climbing but really like it for daly use including working outside. I like the thinner kind made of polyester with zipper pockets. I figure polyester is polyester name brand or not. I find nice fleece vests in thrift stores. Tried all kinds, prefer thin ones made of 100% polyester. If I need heavy vest for warmth I prefer insted having a jacket of some kind. In some areas of the world climbers using vests is somewhat popular. Note , when waring a back pack this negates the effectNess of the vest somewhat as the back is always covered
  20. Looking for someone to climb mid week. Moderate alpine or trad rock. Lead around 5.7 trad, a little higher with practice. Like to do some scrambles as well. Located at north cascades and Mountain Loop Highway, mount Erie, can travel some distance though. Thanks
  21. Bivy Sack as Overbag?

    I have been reading lately that a thin synthetic sleeping bag over a down sleeping bag will keep the down bag dry. I have not tried this system yet to date but sounds good. I have Salathe bivy sack, I wonder if this would do the same thing or not? I wonder if it would work well to have a down bag then synthetic overbag then a bivy sack over everything? Of course the lightest option is to have a down bag then the bivy sack. That is for total shelter. I saw one writer who said that a synthetic sleeping bag over a down sleeping bag was weather proof, I can't imagine that is true in a rain, it would have to soak through, also wet snow. I have a synthetic bivy coat, I could put that over my down sleeping bag as a sort of synthetic overbag while in the bivy sack. Is that a good option as well? Dan
  22. Bivy Sack as Overbag?

    Thanks Rob, I think even a very experienced climber doesn't really understand the differences of situations that a SAR person may get into on a trip out. So far I have not gone on very technical ground on a SAR trip. Even so you can't just pick your spot and may end up on ground that it is not easy to set up a tent. You may be with others as well and this further narrows the spots that are available. Like you say on Pugh, it is a long stretch on third class with very few good spots to camp. When you get to the injured party, most often that is where you are at, good spot to camp or not. I sort of focus on the possibility of a bivy on my trips out, even though a unplanned bivy has been rare for me so far. I think to be light is just carry the bivy sack, some extra clothes and like you say maybe a light sleeping bag. Most likely a 30 degree down bag as this is the lightest I have in my kit. As you say extended trips out in SAR are fairly rare for me so far. Of course if it is dumping rain when I start out I may opt for my synthetic half bag in my kit. I didn't mean to stir up pot when I posted, I had no idea this would have happened.
  23. Bivy Sack as Overbag?

    Just because I belong to SAR does not mean I don't walk around on earth like everyone else. I have a lot of experience but no experience with synthetic over bags used over goose down sleeping bags. Hence the question. How many here have this experience. I just wanted to hear about others experiences, etc. 99% in SAR are volunteers, unpaid, buy own personal gear, etc. My experience, done a fair amount of climbing, a average climber. Can do up to 5.8 trad these days. Can lead around WI 3 on ice. Never been lost in the mountains. Done some decent climbs, plan to do some more. SAR is always looking for good climbers and ground pounders to help out. Often enough only a few guys are all that show up on missions, especially at first. Of course sometimes many show up. Maybe someday in the future one of u posters will show up at a mission? That would be nice, welcome it, I mean that. Good Day Fin
  24. Bivy Sack as Overbag?

    Thanks for the tips. Thinking about all of them. I think it too heavy for most missions to have a overbag with a down bag. Good day.