KingsMM
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Posts posted by KingsMM
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west (east facing) wall of crater
crater showing 9 and 11
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Trip: Broken Top - South Face Gully
Date: 10/27/2007
Trip Report:
The four of us (Matt, Max, Gabe, and Kip) had the goal of doing a route up the Crater of Broken top. We were hoping to get on either 9 o'clock or 11 O'clock. Once we got a good view of them we decided not to because of the warm temps and the small amount of snow in both of the gullys. So we climbed what is called the South Face Gully in Oregon High. Just like it said we encountered some fourth and easy fifth class rock. There were a few short easy fifth class steps about 15-25ft high. Apart from one very loose, probably 3rd class, 80 meter traverse I really enjoyed the climb. We did a running belay on the upper part of the ridge. Descended the NW Ridge route and traversed around the mountain back to camp.
nearing the crater
Max coming up to the ridge
looking at the upper part of the climb
Gabe starting the very loose traverse section (we couldn't find any bomber anchors so we ended up soloing it)
looking down our route. The red line is our approximate route.
classic summit shot
Gear Notes:
One skinny 60m rope, slings (to tie off small trees/rock horns), one picket, ice axe
Approach Notes:
Todd Lake Road- we pushed the Subaru to the limit on the road. It made it half a mile from the BT trail head. The hike was just snow and scree.
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ah zae Leavenworth eh?
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is this ice in Washington Ice?
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Possible ice routes on saddle mtn? maybe one week a year??? anyone done anything technical on saddle?
pics stolen from summitpost
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10-13-07
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I just started climbing water ice last year and am totally hooked. I'm looking for other people who climb ice in Oregon. As far as experience I'm a beginner but have been rock climbing/mountaineering for over 5 years now. One of the most technical routes I've done so far (Alpine climbing) was the Jeff Park Glacier route on Jefferson. I just moved to Bend from the Willamette Valley so I'm especially looking for people in Bend. Always wanting to climb ice so just let me know.
Please PM me!
-Kip
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Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to buy the Rages from John.
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I'm looking at tools to buy for this winter. I'm on a budget. I'm looking to do WI and some Alpine routes with them. Maybe a bit of dry tooling but not much. What would you recommend? What about the STUBAI HORNET for 100$ each? Tools are so expensive i don't want to buy the wrong pair.
Thanks,
Kip
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yea we came out elk cove TH.
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friend and i did most of the trail starting from cloud cap headed clockwise (towards timberline). We talked to many people that were not doing the whole trail due to the washout and 5 people who did do the whole thing. 3 of them went up on the glacier and 2 used the ropes. We made it to about 1 mile before the washout and started to make camp - just at that time we recived a message from my friend's parents saying that they "forbide" him from crossing the washed out area. Low on food and a wee bit tired we back tracked to elk cove and then took the 5 mile trail back to the Elk Cove trail head to meet his dad who had brought us a pizza. The day turned out to be about a 22 miles day! We neved did see the wash out. next time we won't tell the parents...
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I have heard that since the massive land side on mount hood that the timberline trail has a 4 mile section missing. Anyone done the trail sense the slide? I'm hoping to do it starting tommarrow. (I know this isn't a climbing post, but still seems alright to post it here.)
thanks,
Kip
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nice pics joel thanks for sharing. i be looking forward to the route des.
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What a sweet route! I guess you guys got the tuna then. That's a climb I'll do someday.
-Kip
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Adventureboy you have any pics?
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I've climbed on the coast just south of Lincoln City. This is the best stuff i've found. The highest is 30ft high. The rock is grity and best described as vertical gravel. Fun! A few cool boulder problems. some easy gear routes if you don't mind the loose, corse rock. I just did a 5.7, two 5.5s, and Top Roped a 5.8 face.
The Location
Some of the Rock
Jerusalem - V3/4?
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if i remember right one bolt looked good the other old/questionable. I hope i would have set up a equalized/ non-shock loading anchor but yea i wanted to get down so i could have messed up. i thought the nut was good did you think otherwise? anyways i bought it at climb max. i guess you got my other booty as well a few biners if i remember right?
oh yea - thanks a lot for all the work! I love the Menagerie it's great to have people out there like you guys.
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when i did the first pitch of that route last summer. I was attacked by red ants. I was getting bit about every second so called it good and rapped off of two bolts and a nut. do you think the ants will be gone with the moss? Anyone find the nut i left?
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Thanks for the info! I am trying to climb there this weekend. what are the odds there is any climbable ice there?
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Anyone been to the Weeping Wall at Bluewood recently? Any ice ?
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This is like $1,000,000 being shown to you and then find that it is incased in glass. Looks awsome! Really cool to see ice routes go down in Oregon. This makes me wonder... Is there other ice out there (in Oregon) on Public Land? (not counting the gorge or strawberry mtns) There has got to be...
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Nice photos! Looks fun! How long of a drive from Bend is it? How long does it take to ski in?
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First ascents are going up all over the place! Nice work! How long of a drive would that be from PDX?
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Sweet thank you!
Saddle Mountain - Water Ice
in Oregon Cascades
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Sick! Okay that's it I'm most def heading up there this winter!!!