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Posts posted by KingsMM
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headed up saddle mountian today searching for climbable ice. we found some. but i'd say very gheto ice. only 3 inches thick with water running under it. would be great if a bit colder.
Note: the road is "closed" but you can drive to the TH. The trail had quite a lot of trees blocking it and there were lots of landslides in the area.
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anyone notice the front page of the Bend Bulletin today? An ice climber on hwy 20!
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What does it take for the Chinook Pass climbs to freeze? I'm looking at white pass weather. Should i assume about the same temps?
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seems like its been cold up there. what do you think the chances of anything around white or chinook pass would be in?
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Where are the Sumallo Bluffs at?
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anyone know where this clear creek falls is?
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yes there is!
it is seldom reliable though. Some worth mentioning..
crater creek running off the broken top plateu has some good pitches. Early Bird WI2/3,Sins with Twins and Seldom Seen WI 4/5, right of sins with twins WI4 is very reliable- third pitch down from the top. The top one (Early Bird) is almost always in, the next two down are better though. I would ski upto the plateu from dutchman and then head down to try and find the highest pitch. It is hard to find (and I suspect im the only one who has found/climbed these) so you will probably need a quad topo of the area. the top most falls are close to a trail which should be shown on the map and originates at Green Lakes trailhead (not the falls creek trail). Sometimes there is too much snow to get to this place but it is awsome on a good year. All day ordeal too.
Cougar bluff (on your right to Tumalo falls) has some mixed lines but I have never done them. I think they are to the right mostly. And there is topropabe stuff usually on the right of the falls.
Also Cougar Slayer WI3/M2 is a fun, although thin and hard to protect, climb that is on the steepest right-hand part of the bluff by the Hoodoo ski area.
Ice is hard to find around Bend but just keep exploring and you might find some more. (let me know if you do )
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With all the good ice out there, if you end up climbing on a roadcut, something is wrong.
either that or you live in Oregon.
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Hey does anyone know the law in Oregon/Washington regarding climbing ice on road cuts?
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Trip: Paulina Falls - just ice bouldering
Date: 11/26/2007
Trip Report:
Checked out Paulina Falls today. There wasn't a line that I wanted to do without having a belayer. (was up there by myself) I did some fun ice bouldering on the right falls though. If it stays cold or gets colder anyone want to head up there this Friday or Saturday?
Falls on climbers right. There was a line of ice connected top to bottom on the right but very thin/steep.
Right Falls
Right side of left falls. Trying to form.
Gear Notes:
ice gear
Approach Notes:
1hr drive south of Bend. 1hr hike on snowmobile road.
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what do you think the chances the route will come in this year? or was this just a freak of nature?
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I'm hopping to climb strawberry falls near Strawberry mtn in Oregon this weekend. Do you think it would be formed? I did the math for the average mean temp for the last 13 days and it is 27.5 deg F. The average mean temp since Oct. 1st is just below freezing (31.5 deg F). I used weather underground's stats for 3,500ft at Prairie City and then added 3.5deg F per 1000ft. Strawberry falls is at 6,800ft. What do you think? I'm just hoping for any little bit of climbable ice nothing grand.
Thanks,
Kip
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Although I only met Jim once, I feel he was one of the nicest good natured people I've ever met. His routes are truly inspiring.
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If anyone finds a cell phone on mt. Washington N. Ridge route please PM me. I believe it is somewhere above pitch one. It is a black and silver motorola phone. Thanks.
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is that English?
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Is this little word beneath my name based on the number of posts i have? or what?
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sweet! I wish i could get out there some how. anyone from bend wanna make a trip out there?
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thanks for the info guys! right now i'm going to Central Oregon Community College. I'm very interested in Fort Lewis College. Seems like they don't cater to transfers very well. Maybe transferring to a Colorado community college first then transfer again to Fort Lewis after a year is the way to go???
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Sweet! what is that WI 3?
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sounds like that's the place to be.
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sorry my geography isn't up to par. does Durango have ice?
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mommy and daddy aren't rich. which is unfortunate. Boulder's tuition is out the window for out of state IMO.
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how about UNIVERSITY OF WYOMING -Laramie, Wyoming? Is there ice up there??? mtns?
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What do you guys think? Lets say mainly for quick access to Ice,Mountains,and trad. In order of preference.
Saddle Mountain - Water Ice
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
small peak in NW oregon coast range off of hwy 26