Toast
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Posts posted by Toast
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quote:Originally posted by thelawgoddess:...it's going to be fucking wet fucking eveywhere this fucking weekend. (not that i'm fucking letting that affect my fucking mood.)
My point exactly. Daylight is short and the weather is less than predictable. I've been trying to think of a way to work on anchor systems and mechanics without having to drive an hour out of town... which basically limits you to a weekend day... which is tough to schedule if the probability is high that that you're gonna get soaked.
For the sake of efficiency, my suggestion would be to narrow the scope and run a focused clinic on complex anchor systems... an equalized anchor set up with cordalette, quick efficient methods of setting anchors in opposition for an omni, hybrids of the two and a little discussion of why and when you'd do so.
That's pretty basic, but it gets a little more complex when you add in handoff from a hanging belay. I was a little slow on the uptake of my first hanging belay, and I'd like to get straight where I clip in and what I can unclip when without having the prospect of a 300' drop below me messin' with my concentration. Basically I'd like to work out these mechanics in advance in a safe environment... preferably with a beer within reach.
In my mind, what I've just described is enough for about a two hour clinic. With that foundation, I'd be a little more comfortable picking a weekend to climb and put that knowledge into action on real rock. This could be another clinic or a real climb.
Lambone, I just noticed your last post. I'm up for that as well, but I think we'd get more out of it if we got some of the mechanics greased on the ground. I like the idea of scheduling this before one of the Pub Clubs and heading down for a beer with the rest of the crew after. Just my $0.02
[ 11-07-2002, 05:04 PM: Message edited by: Toast ]
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quote:Originally posted by Lambone:I could be tempted to instruct with some type of compensation other than $ ie.
![[big Drink]](graemlins/bigdrink.gif)
, perhaps we could do it before pub club sometime.The biggest question is where?I can open up my place in Fremont, and I'm happy to pitch in on beer and pizza. Now the question is when?
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Here's an idea...
Any interest out there in running a couple of indoor mini-clinics on complex anchor systems, self rescue and all the stuff a good newbie should have down cold before venturing out to lead?
Like some of you, I'm new to rock climbing, but I'd like to learn to lead. Recent threads have pointed out that a new climber has no business being on the sharp end of a rope without acceptance of the risk, good judgment and solid technical skills.
I've been reading and re-reading Long's Climbing Anchors as well as all the print material I can get my hands on. On occasion I'll get up the gumption to rig table legs and chairs into multi directional or equalized anchors and practice emergency tie off
![[Roll Eyes]](images/icons/rolleyes.gif)
This is all good, but practicing solo lacks some of the scenarios like dealing with rope management and swapping leads on a hanging belay. Besides it'd be handy to have a few eyes scrutinizing the systems and get some collaborative input ![[rockband]](graemlins/rockband.gif)
I'm not saying I know how to do all this, but I want to make sure I figure it out... and I'd like to make sure you do too
![[Wink]](images/icons/wink.gif)
Any interest out there... Leejams, SK, TLG, others?
[ 11-15-2002, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: Toast ]
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Yep, I got the same fever. Looking for any opportunity to get out mid-week... though, I really gotta find some work soon
![[laf]](graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif)
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quote:Originally posted by mattp:quote:Originally posted by Toast:How about this as a query: Name a few good in-city cracks to practice on
Most "cracks" you find in the city, formed concrete seams or gaps between two separate concrete structures, are straight and parallel sided and do not really replicate real cracks. You will find some big-stone rock walls with more irregular "cracks," but these don't really replicate real cracks, either. You really gotta go to Index, or further afield, to find real cracks to practice putting gear into. For climbing practice, there are a few cracks at the UW rock, Stone Gardens has one (doesn't it?) and there are plenty of buildering problems scattered about town.
Thanks Matt. I guess one thing that sucks about Seattle is that it's just a rubble pile of glaciel till (sigh)
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BTW, thanks for all the great recommendations on first trad routes to lead
![[smile]](images/icons/smile.gif)
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Okay, lots of people have recommended placing gear off the ground as a start. I wandered over to Little Si and found a good crack to practice an equalized anchor, but that's a bit of drive for just farting around. I have a crack in the concrete retaining wall in back of my house and I've seen a few other spots around town. These are all fine but limited to just a few good placements each.
How about this as a query: Name a few good in-city cracks to practice on
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quote:Originally posted by freeclimb9:I haven't been to Chiapas, and have only heard bad things about that state.
I say
![[HORSECOCK]](graemlins/HCL.gif)
to that!!I've traveled through Chiapas state twice, and I can say is it's an honest slice of Mexico I'd be happy to visit again. There are next to no Gringo tourists, and the smiles I encountered were the real thing. Yes there's the army looking for rebels and an occasional roadblock to deal with, but I assume TG and his family don't look like they're looking for trouble.
To be honest, you've only got a month, so I doubt you'll make it that far. But if you do... San Christobal de las Casas is worthy. Try the tepache (sp?) a local specialty and a very refreshing drink. It's more or less slightly fermented pinapple water packaged up in used Coke bottles with corks atop. If you head further East into the Yucatan you'll encounter wonderful local fare and tamales that will melt in your mouth. I don't know the names of some of the food I encountered, but mmmm.
Words of wisdom: Do take acidophilus suppliments daily and eat fresh yogurt when you encounter it.
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Aren't there similar mechanics at work with a GoreTex bivy bag?
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quote:Originally posted by Beck:My flavor in routes run to high grade low class stuff that keeps the crowds down. I even saw a woof once!
You saw a woof?
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I have a FF 20 degree down bag. It shrinks up super small and is awesome in the summer. In cold weather I'll add a bivy sack which adds another air trapping layer. Add a fleece hat and down vest and I'm toasty... ha, a pun
![[big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif)
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Werks fer me... It's a stroll down and a stumble up the hill from my place.
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Hey, let's get this back on track
I wasn't asking where to buy tires. I was actually asking about specific feedback on two models, the Goodyear GT II and the Bridgestone Potenza RE 910... or feedback on what you like for tires in the mountains.Now let's go drink and drive
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Hey, let's get this back on track
I wasn't asking where to buy tires. I was actually asking about specific feedback on two models, the Goodyear GT II and the Bridgestone Potenza RE 910... or feedback on what you like for tires in the mountains.Now let's go drink and drive
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quote:Originally posted by mtnnut:My favorite so far is the TOPO! series because the map output is basically a familiar feeling USGS map. I've never been comfortable with the ones that have computer drawn contour lines, since I don't know how those computer interpretations came to be. The USGS maps were created using long established standards which after using paper maps for a while you get the feel for.
I think mtnnut is referring to DeLorme Topo USA. I have this product and it sucks
![[Mad]](images/icons/mad.gif)
for the very reasons he points out. I do love the convenience of a topo program for trip planning and for printing out a better-than-nothing map. But if I had to do it over again, I'd get the National Geographics Topo software. Hope this helps
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quote:Originally posted by TimL:Kevin first thing in the morning heading out ice climbing has the wonderful habit of slamming on his breaks on icey, curvey roads going about 40 mph to test if the tires are working.
Seems to be akin to jumping off a dicy ice screw placement to see if the damn thing'd hold
![[hell no]](graemlins/hellno3d.gif)
Glad you're still surviving, though
[ 10-25-2002, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: Toast ]
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Getting there safely is climbing related, don'tcha think
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Anybody got the Goodyear GT II's?
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My tire's are dangerously bald, and it's time for me to procure some new rubber for my car... just in time for the winter season
Now I've been doing some shopping and I'm totally confused. I know Bridgestone Blizzak's are the shit for passenger mud and snow rated tires, but they don't come in my car's size (205/50/R15). Besides, I really just need a good set of all season radials that will perform well over the pass and provide security in wet conditions and in snow on plowed roads. I've got a speedy little VW that's not exactly built for off road driving, but it's fun on the road and is what's gonna get me up the pass this season.
Right now, I'm looking at a set of Goodyear GT II's and Bridgestone Potenza RE 910's. The price diff between them is significant. Do any of you have either of these, and do you have any feedback? If not, what kind of rubber do you run on, and are you happy with it?
Thanx in advance... It's Friday and time to
[ 10-25-2002, 03:23 PM: Message edited by: Toast ]
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quote:Originally posted by Off White:yeah, testing mostly sucks. As an employer, I've done it to an employee once because he was fucking up big time, missing work and not calling in, and hanging out with a new girlfriend who I knew was a big part of tweaker culture out at the Nisqually tribe. He admitted to doing meth, but that he was turning his back on it, and the random test confirmed that. (though the testing agency called to tell me it was a positive test, he'd been smoking pot. I think they didn't quite know what to make of it when I said "Oh, good, its a good outcome.") The employee in question is still with me, but not with the bad egg girlfriend anymore. Drug tests suck, but so do junkies, and when you have employees unsupervised inside client's homes, there is a liability question.
Seriously, from an employer's perspective, what information do you get from the labs? Sounds like they give you specifics on "positives" and it's at your discretion wheter to blink an eye. Is that right?
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When I was in college I swore I'd never sink so low as to piss in a cup. This was more out of principle than the fact I'd fail.
Well, the day actually came and I did the deed for a job I wanted. Nothing ever came of it and it makes me think the testing process itself may be flawed, testing clinics underfunded, or just a smoke screen by companies to deter the... um, smoke.
Party on Garth
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quote:Originally posted by Billygoat:Hey Lisa, would this be Baker ski area below Table mountain and Artist Point?
Didn't all the walls around that bowl drop last year in one HUGE avvy last spring?
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quote:Originally posted by Beck:Ski PARTY New Years' Eve below Threeway Peak up Crystal Basin way, should be able to have dogs, big roaring fire, a keg of beer. Anybody game?
I'm on board with Threeway Peak.
Question: Is the terrain snowboard friendly? Yeah... I'm one of those
![[Razz]](images/icons/tongue.gif)
Wilderness First Aid
in Climber's Board
Posted
I was with my friend G at the base of the Tooth many years ago. Climbers above had kicked loose a grapefruit sized chunk of rock. G ducked behind a tree but his hand was exposed and his middle finger more or less got deboned when the rock smashed down on his hand![[Eek!]](images/icons/shocked.gif)
Anyway, the thought of shock and the prospect of getting stuck behind the pass was going through my mind. I was frank with him that this was my concern and that we needed to stop the bleeding and get back to the trail pronto. I dressed his hand in a bandanna, packed with snow and he tried to keep it elevated as we descended. All worked out fine with the exception that G now has a permanent fuck-u finger.
In hindsight, I think we did an okay job. I've taken a MOFA class since and now know there are other things I should have checked. Yes, these classes are extremely time consuming, and much of what they teach is common sense. However, they do drill on fundamentals that can help keep you and your partner's ass alive in grim circumstances.
Maybe it's just me, but I kinda think its a no brainer that all of us should have some kind of first aid knowledge... even if it's only from reading a book. I'd get a little pissed if you let me bleed to death because you forgot to check![[Mad]](images/icons/mad.gif)