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Toast

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Posts posted by Toast

    Easton Glacier access and Schreiber's Meadow?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Here's some beta from this weekend, May 24-25. Snow on the road blocked access to the Schreiber’s meadow about half a mile short of the parking lot. I doubt that will melt out in the week, but snow down low is going fast. We took the summer route up to the Railroad Grade. I would not recommend that. It cost us an extra hour or more of climbing over snow obstacles. The week prior, Friday 5/16 through Tuesday 5/20, there was 3.5 inches of water equivalent that fell, or more than three feet of fresh snow up high. We brought show shoes and were thankful. We did not find any open crevasses to use for crevasse rescue practice, and I doubt those are going to open up any time soon. I probed an obvious depression in the area we typically use for this. While I did find a crevasse, the shallowest breakthroughs were at 230 cm down. We saw a large, group up high just below the open seracs. I don’t know for sure that they found any open crevasses, but they were stationary up there for several hours, so there may or may not be usable open crevasses up high around 7,000’. There were tons of loose wet avalanches on steeper terrain all around. Down low, snow bridges around the creek are collapsing. Be careful around those. Hopefully this is useful for others out there.

    Tieton Tent Theft

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Probably five or six years ago our neighbor's tent got sotlen, a brand new Bibler he was taking up to Alaska. Ever since then I've used a POS tent cragging and taken anything valuable like a sleeping bag with me.

     

    Hope karma comes down on the theif

    Where are the easy trad leads? <5.7

    in Newbies

    Posted · Edited by Toast

    There are two new routes to the left of Hand Jive on the Green Wall at Vantage. As you beging hiking up the trail to the Mesa (trail to the Sunshine Wall) look for chain anchors off to the left of the trail. Not sure of the grade, but prob in the 5.6 - 5.7 range. Untill there's more traffic on the route, they'll remain dirty, so be sure to wear a helmet anywere at the base.

     

    Back at Zig Zag wall are prob five or six easyish routes. Lady in Red and Tank Trap at the far left end and a few others closer to the right end. Watch out of poison oak and again wear a helmet around here.

     

    On the Sunshine Wall are Crack in the Back, Seven Virgins and a Mule (you will need to build an anchor at the top of this one) and Chapstick next to the gulley.

    Where are the easy trad leads? <5.7

    in Newbies

    Posted · Edited by Toast

    The roadside crags along Icicle Creek Road near Leavenworth aren't the most interesting but there's lots in that range.

     

    - Mountaineers Dome

    - Lower Clamshell

    - Mad Meadows / Playground Point

    - Barney's Rubble

    - Bruces Boulder

    - Alphabet Rock

     

    There's always the Index classic, the Great Northern Slab. It's 3 pitches. The second is a beautiful twin crack that will gobble up gear. The third is a half pitch of bolts. Variations to the right of the first pitch will bump it up a notch or two.

     

    There are sea walls along the waterfront in South Everett that are good for plugging gear. Just drive west past Forest Park to the water, cross the train tracks, and pack out your beer bottles and trash when you leave ;)

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