Buckwheat

Yeah, ok, it's not that bad... after the first pitch. It's more mossy and there are plenty of holds that don't look solid but turn out to be.

Climb: Harvey's Pup-Pup Buttress Date of Climb: 7/22/2005 Trip Report: This will be my first trip report here on CC. I got some good beta on the route from some old posts so I though I'd return the favor. Overall it's an interesting climb with lots of adventure. The rock is not the best, actually it's pretty bad, but in the end it's a somewhat rewarding climb. Just a cool place to be. A couple of notes as far as beta goes: If you want to stash packs leave them at the big gully that you cross on the approach. This is where the descent meets the trail. We left ours out in the scree field below the peak and had to backtrack to get to them. Some people had said the the start isn't obvious but we found that not to be the case. There is an obvious pin sticking out of a crack about fifteen feet up. Can't miss it. Lastly, the section up through the headwall doesn't look very probable from below. We wasted some time looking around but in fact the route does go up the big nasty looking chimney system. Oh, and get an early start. The buttress. On the approach. The third class approach ramp. Racking up below the first pitch. The first pitch. Steep! Looking down from pitch two. Tom belaying out on the slabs. The headwall. The climb goes up the obvious dark chimney in the middle of the face. Tom starting up pitch four. And into the chimney. This section was just as difficult as the "crux" offwidth. Love those mossy offwidths! After the crux... no more pro for a while. Nice belay at the end of the long chimney. From the summit. Rapping into the notch. One of coolest rappels ever! (if there is such a thing) And again... And into the looooong chossy descent gully. Gear Notes: Brought two #3 camalot size, one #4, and a big hex. Used it all. Approach Notes: Straight forward.

fatty...

TMTD definately is the best climbing in the state...

'Mctech Arete' at the Bugs...

Ahh man, I have my Physics midterm the next day..

Distel, are you coming out on Thursday?? Afternoonish.. That thing needs to go down. This has gone on for far too long.

I have a bit of gear for sale if anyone is interested... I don't do so much aid climbing anymore so I'm cleaning out the closet a little bit. PM me if interested in anything. Thanks - 1 set Metolius adjustable aiders (unused) - 1 set Yates 6-step aiders (excellent condition) - 1 pair LaSportiva Kaukulators size 40.5 (brown) - 1 BD Yosemite Hammer (good condition) + chisel for heads - 1 BD Talon hook (excellent condition) - 1 BD Cliffhanger hook (excellent condition) - 1 Leeper pointed "Logan" hook (excellent condition) - 1 Set offset Aliens (3) (black/blue, blue/green, green/yellow) (good condition) - BD angle pitons #1-4 (4) (excellent condition - 1 BD Pulley (excellent condition) - 2 Leeper cam hooks (1 narrow, 1 wide) (good condition) - 2 BD Knifeblade pitons (#3, #5) (unused) - 3 BD Lost Arrow pitons (#1, #2, #5) (excellent condition) - 2 Old school #1 Friends (very old but still usable) - 1 Metolius FCU #4 - 1 Metolius FCU #8 - 33 oval carabiners in varying states of abuse. Some are "like new", others are not...

This is why I was jugging the line...

Here are some more of Distel flexing on rocks...

Gee Luke, yer fast... I thought you were supposed to hang with the woman tonight... playing on the computer instead!

Distel, Yeah I wish I could have made it to the TMTD... Can't wait for Smith though! I switched my shifts around for tomorrow so we can leave whenenver your ready! Kris

Thanks for the feedback, In response to: "The climbing pics need captions..." I'm working on putting captions on all images, this is just a start. "The ampersand..." I see what you mean! "Too many sunsets..." Hey, half of those are sunRISES... hehe "Make the "more pics" button in the thumbnail bar more prominent..." Yeah, I'll see if it can't get a little bigger. "no way to nav back to the previous set of thumbs..." As of right now you have to either refresh or re-click the nav buttons. Working on that one too. Thanks again for your feedback! Kris

Check out my new photography site! Climbing, scenic, and travel photos... http://www.kristaylorphoto.com Any and all feedback is appreciated!

So, what if you do both? What's your label for that?

On Monday I did Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms on Upper Town Wall at Index. Supposedly the hottest day of the year so far.. So, we got the super-alpine start: at 1 p.m. We were in the shade after the first pitch. The temps were quite nice. I enjoyed the route very much.

What are the directions for the Chilliwack bouldering?

Damn! Too bad you figured it out. I wanted to heckle you on the internet! Where are the other boulder types in B'ham anyway? Are there any more of you out there? P.S. Dyno Merchants routes aren't sandbagged... your just weak. Do some pullups or something...

I'll vouch for the Dyno Merchant. The bouldering around B'ham is better than you might think...

Well, you'll probably hate me but we went out to the Bugs afterwards... Let's see, aproach was maybe 5 1/2 hours. Mostly on the logging road. Nice 1500 ft. snow field to the pass. Sure beats talus! There's a few snow fields to cross to reach the base. No need for crampons or axe though. There is actually a bit of glacier activity near the base. Hanging seracs and the like. Some avalanche danger for maybe five minutes of the approach near the end. Stash some boots near the pass for the return to base camp so you don't need to carry them on route. (There's an obvious flat rock near the pass) The route took about twelve hours and the descent (back to base camp) took 3. We did the route in 17 pitches to the ridge and then two more to the summit. That's with a little bit of simul-climbing but also a few short pitches thrown in. Be ready for a little 5.8 don't fall and 5.9 don't wanna fall. The roof pitch we did, which we think is about 20 left of the line in the book felt like 5.10c or so... The slab up high is amazing. 5.6 crack for a thousand feet. It's much longer than it looks... We brought 1 axe for the descent. You don't need it until the end where you rappel onto the snow. It was nice to have because you land on some steep snow. + you must crawl up over the bergshrund from the rock. I can't think of much else as far as beta. It's a pretty nice route. I do think that NFD would be of better quality and more sustained but it would be much harder to do in a day. Have a great time if you go up there!

I did Direktissima last week (Sunday the 21st. ) The weather and conditions on route were perfect. Completely dry. Lots of snow at end of descent. After the rappel from east ridge. But it was nice to not hike on talus. We did the route without pins but a couple would have come in handy for belays. Route finding was somewhat of a problem, which it appears it would be anywhere on the face. I think we climbed a little left of the line in the guidebook for the middle pitches but we were able to find a way through to the slabs at 5.10 or so. The road conditions are pretty bad after the Shatlu lake trailhead (which is where we parked). As for NF Direct: my parent for Dir. did the first ascent and says its a much better line. More sustained, with lots of 5.8-5.9. Better anchors as well. He has gone back and placed a couple bolts and pins to make it safer. He highly recommends it. A spectacular area! Didn't see a soul the entire time.