therunningdog

Ignore this post. Camera has been found! :-) Thanks Tim

Trip: Reynolds Peak - EENE Ridge Approach Date: 8/31/2008 Trip Report: It was 6am somewhere on the Twisp River Road, and TJ and I had just spent 3 days doing some hardcore peakbaggin' (Big Craggy, W. Craggy, Oval, Courtney, Star, Abernathy). Feeling a bit tired after lots of vertical travel and celebrating my birthday with our friend Pabst the night before, TJ and I were on the cusp of bailing on the last mountain on our itinerary, Reynolds Peak. We almost succumbed to temptations of breakfast and good coffee in Twisp, as we were anticipating a nasty bushwhack to get up Reynolds from the Twisp River Road approach. But we mustered up the energy to get going up the trail, and what we found was a great hike and scramble with very little bushwhacking at all. We took a seemingly untrammeled route which we called the East-East-North-East(EENE) Ridge. I havent seen a TR for this specific route, so here goes.... We hiked up the Reynolds Creek Trail for few miles until we got to about 4800 feet, at that point we left the trail and headed left, down towards Reynolds Creek. We saw a few traces of trail here, and some orange tape at the point where we crossed Reynolds Creek, still at about the 4800-4850 foot elevation.From here we hiked uphill, with Reynolds Creek to our right until we arrived at the base of an immense slope of slide alder. It's one of the largest swathes of slide alder I have ever seen, and just thinking about what it would take to get through it makes me cringe. :cry:Anyways, from here we traversed left below the slide alder until we arrived at the base of a boulder field filled with bright, clean granitic rock(Boulder Field #1). We hiked up this for a couple hundred feet to it's end, then hiked up and left until we got to the base of a mossy boulder field (Boulder Field #2). Again, we hiked up this boulder field to its end, then traversed up and (mostly) left until we got to the base of a bigger boulder field with clean, bright granite(Boulder Field #3). We hiked up this field to its end, exited it to its left side, then continued mostly up, but somewhat left for several hundred feet until we were on open slopes and at the base of the EENE Ridge. At this point we had encountered some brush, but not very much at all...it was really quite pleasant! :tup:A few hundred feet vertical feet of walking up on the east side of the ridge on slabby, dirty, but easy slopes brought us to the crest of the ridge at about 6300 feet. From this point on, the route was straightforward and really fun. Most of the ridge is simply hiking, but there are a few spots of class 3 moves to spice things up just a bit. Climbing on the EENE Ridge: We had wide open views on both sides of us, even though the weather wasnt so great we had awesome views of east side peaks. We climbed straight over point 7038 and continued on the ridge until about 7300 feet, where we dropped down to the left and continued up easy scree and boulder slopes to the final class 3 summit scramble. TJ scrambling up to the top of Point 7038: The top of the ridge from Point 7038, with Reynolds Peak behind: We arrived at the summit a bit over 4 hours from the car. Going down took us about 2.5. Stepping across a chasm on the way down the ridge: Another shot on the ridge: It turned out to be a great day out, and a rewarding routefinding experience. I think this area would make for a good ski, too. Also a cool hike because didnt see traces of anyone after we crossed Reynolds Creek, except for the summit register. We eventually got GOOD FOOD later that day in Marblemount to finish off a great trip of top-100 exploration. I drank heavily that night. Approach Notes: Uh, I think I over did it already.

DOH! We lost a La Sportiva rock shoe somewhere between Snow Lake TH and Leprechaun Lake a couple days ago. Not sure how it fell off the biner it was on...but it did. Give a shout! Tim 206-851-9980

Great photos as usual, Jason! Thanks for putting the trip report together all the splendid memories of HESHING at Jerry Lakes.

Thanks, Blake. I have always had the same feelings for you, too. ;-) "Rilikpa" is a contrived Sherpa phrase meaning something like "the virility felt within oneself when in the mountains." That is the "G rated" english definition, at least....

I stoopidly forgot to retrieve my frisbee when I overthrew it yesterday at the Lone Fir Campground, just east of Washington Pass. It is a white frisbee. It is my girlfriend's, and she is m-a-d at me for leaving it there. It is about 10-15 feet NE of the picnic table, at the second-to-last or third-to-last campsite as you drive around the campground. So, quite near the entrance, really. I live in Ballard. I am now thinking this is a waste of time, but I'm going to post this anyways. I also recently left my camera in Minneapolis, if anyone is heading there. Thanks! Tim 206-851-9980

Ben, thanks for doing a great job with the great write-up...and thanks again for leading all those pitches and basically rescuing my dizzy ass from that mountain. I was very lucky to have such a competent partner with me on this trip! Still dizzy in Ballard...

I did Glacier from White Pass last year. It took us a day of walking to get from the car(we hiked up Indian Creek) to the col above Honeycomb glacier...a longish day, but do-able. From there it was about a 4 hour out and back from the Glacier peak summit via Disappointment Peak - class 3 scramble. From White Pass there is a really good climbers trail that eventually dumps you down into moraine-land. You're on your own then. This was in late August. Glaciers were still easily passable. We continued down the Honeycomb Glacier and on to Moth Lake. A great trip!

The water bottle served me well for the final 4 days of my recent trip(I actually lost my only bottle the day before somewhere near Triumph), but if you want to come pick it up, I live in Ballard. Tim 206-851-9980

There are some photos located....HERE! http://picasaweb.google.com/halder.tim/NorthernPicketsJuly2008/

Trip: Northern Pickets - Little Beaver-Whatcom-Challenger-Luna-Big Beaver Date: 7/16/2008 Trip Report: Just a quick report on the conditions in the N. Pickets. Trail to Whatcom Pass on Little Beaver trail is mostly cleared, smooth sailing except for one big avalanche deposit just before the trail steepens. We walked around Whatcom Peak on the east side. It was very easy and took about 2 hours from Whatcom Pass to Perfect Pass. The scramble of Whatcom from the south side is quick...30 minutes RT. There were some ski tracks up there and also up on Challenger. Nice work, whoever that was! Challenger Glacier is in good shape between Perfect Pass and camp on N side of Challenger. The snowbridge across the bergschrund below Challenger summit is still pretty beefy, but I think it will be getting pretty thin in about two weeks. Getting to the summit of Challenger was easy. Take 2-3 slings or draws. The traverse of Luna Cirque was pretty straightforward. Drop over the shoulder at about the same elevation as the camp for Challenger, and then pick your way down and right. We didnt down all the way to Lousy Lake, but be careful of rockfall on your way to Luna Lake. From Luna Col, head around the shoulder you can see from the col and take the gully that is called the "2nd gully". It was super easy getting down this way and you can plunge step all the way down to the bushwhacking section of the trip. Getting down Access Creek wasnt that bad. Read older reports and follow them. There is a 12" diameter log just downstream(2 minute walk) of the Acess Creek/Big Beaver confluence. You have to scooch across on your butt, but at least it's there. We stashed 12 PBRs in Ross Lake on the way in at Big Beaver. We only found 6 of them 4 days later, though. Fess up! Gear Notes: Glacier gear, coupla slings for Challenger. Approach Notes: Long and hot.

Nice work, dudes! Did you guys have a cinnamon roll at the top? I was checking that ridge out on our SEB trip this summer, and it looked sweet! Awesome! Speaking of beer and Mt. Goode, on our trip to do the SEB this summer my partner Ben and I stashed SIX 11oz Sessions stubbies in various small creeks between Bridge Creek trailhead and the turnoff to NF Bridge Creek. They were supposed to be motivation for our hike out, but since we ended up coming out via Cascade Pass, they are probably still there for anyone heading in that way. They arent too hard to find, not more than 10 meters from where the stream crosses the trail. A little scavenger hunt for ya!

I know this is last-minute, but I have tomorrow free and I'd love to get on some rock. My first choice would be to go to 11worth and give Orbit or OuterSpace a try, but I am open to other ideas, too. I'd be stoked to get on some trad multi-pitch in the 5.8-5.9 range, or I'd be up for a full-day alpine adventure of some kind...rock or otherwise. Give me a call if you're interested, since I am leaving the computer for a few hours. Tim 206-851-9980

That rock looks just SLIGHTLY better than Guye Peak. Nice work guys!! When are they going to build a tram to the Gunsights, anyways??

FEZ and KALPAK are available at Uncle Borat's Happy Haberdashery in downtown Bishkek. Fermented Mare's Milk (Kummis)can be procured at any of the roadside stands along the Pamir Highway. Next time Guye will be sent Shriner Style! Beep beep!

Trip: Guye Peak - Improbable Traverse [FFA/FKA] Date: 6/1/2007 Trip Report: Ben and I climbed Guye Peak a couple weeks ago via the Improbable Traverse. We decided to climb the peak a bit differently than most. Always thinking outside-the-box, Ben opted to climb Guye in the traditional Kyrgyz Kalpak style, while I opted to send the route Fez style. As far as we know, this is the first Kalpak'd ascent of Guy(FKA), and probably the first Fez'd ascent, too(FFA.) If anyone knows otherwise, let us know, because we'd like to smoke a hookah and drink mare's milk with them. We headed up on a Wednesday night and after a couple of Sessions(beers), slept at the pullout in the little subdivision, and by 6am Thursday were walking on the loosey-goosey-rockey-goodness that is Guye Peak!!! The Improbable Traverse route is basically right above THE FEZ. Wat wit all the loose rock that Guye Peak is known for, we were both happy to have the protection of our special headgear. Doing the funky Kalpak at the rope-up spot. We simuled for a short while until we ended up below this crack system below the Lunch Ledge that Ben headed up. We were at the level of the Lunch Ledge at 7:30am, so we didn't eat lunch there. Getting ready to head off over the famous Improable Traverse can really cause you to shudder! Looks can be deceiving. It's an airy, fun pitch that leaves you feeling a little run out, but it's not hard. After the Improbable Traverse pitch, the climbing is basically done, and it's fez nice scramble to the summit!!! At the summit! We didn't stay long. We bonzaied back to the car and I was back in my sad cubicle by 11:45. A good way to start a workday. Nah, I take that back. A GREAT way!! Gear Notes: Small rack to 3". Fez. Kalpak. 2-12 oz. Sessions the night before. Fermented Mare's Milk Approach Notes: If possible, try to go up the cruddy scree slope when you are still half asleep.

A buddy of mine went to do K.T. in 2005 and I am sure he can tell you who NOT to go with. His Russian chopper crashed on the glacier when it picked them up to head back to Karakol. Amazingly noone was seriously hurt. Give Lee Harrison an email and I am sure he will he happy to talk to you about his K. T. trip. ljharrison247@hotmail.com Have fun! Kyrgystan is a really cool place! Tim

I have Monday, Tuesday and (possibly) Wed and Thursday free next week. Anyone up for some moderate alpine work? My thoughts: Something on Mt. Triumph?? Washington Pass Smorgasbord?? W. Ridge Stuart?? NEB Goode? I'm pretty flexible with itineraries and options, and just want to get out on some rock and bust out a rope for a couple days. I could leave as early as Sunday night. Shoot me an EMAIL or call if you're interested. I live in Fremont. Thanks! Tim therunningdog@yahoo.com 206-851-9980

Hey! Any chance anyone is heading to Chelan/Stehekin in the next few days? My car just bombed out on me and I "need" to get on the boat to Stehekin for a climbing adventure by Friday morning. I'd appreciate a lift, and of course I'll help with gas$$$, too! These car troubles might be a blessing, as I have always wanted to and excuse to hike back to Cascade pass from Stehekin and hitchhike back to Seattle. Give me a call if you're interested in helping! I don't check my PM's much, so phone is the best. Thanks, Tim 206-851-9980

Nice work guys!!

Hi! Do you still have the cams? Where did you get them re-slung? What size do the old Friends compare to in terms of Camalots? If you still have the cams, shoot me an EMAIL, not a PM. For some reason, I cannot log into CC.com on my computer b/c of a virus or someting. So, now I sit at the public library. Cool. Tim Halder therunningdog@yahoo.com

Does anyone know if the Weyerhaeuser gate on Forest Road 62 (just south of Hwy 2) is open? I'd like to go check out Persis tomorrow... Just wondering if I need to bring my bike or not...

Well, here I am with no job and some extra cizzash in the bank...so, I'm thinking of heading to Asia or South America this fall to travel. I'd like to do a climb of some kind if at all possible while I am abroad...and I would be willing to plan my trip around a climb if there was someone who was looking for a last-minute team member. I was in Nepal last year climbing some trekking peaks, and would love to do some more easy stuff, but would love to step it up a notch or two as well. I've got solid glacier climbing experience, and am decent on the rock as well. Super fit. Done a lot of traveling in Asia and South America in the past. Shoot me an email if you've got any ideas for me.... Cheers! Tim therunningdog@yahoo.com

Besides working on the local anti-Bush campaign, I have virtually the whole month of September open and I want to get some climbs in. Weekdays especially. Rock, alpine or travereses...it's all good. I like to keep things pretty low-stress and keep the success ratio high. Day trips or overnights are OK. I'm 30, fit and like beer. 5.9 sport lead, 5.7 trad lead, 5.10's in the gym. I've been climbing for 4-5 years but have packed a lot in. Here are some things I'm interested in: Rock: Beckey route, Cutthroat, Ingalls, Sherpa, Prusik, Cathedral Rock, Kangaroo Temple Alpine: Bonanza, Sloan, Dome, Spickard/Redoubt, Forbidden/Sharkfin Traverses: Ptarmigan, Pickett, Eldorado-Bacbone, Bailey, Snowfield-Eldorado I'm open to anything, though, so email therunningdog@yahoo.com and we'll rap. Over.

I want to climb, but I lead like 5.12b+, so maybe you just can't handle climbing with me. Oh, forget it, I'll just solo it. See ya sucker!