RuMR

i know you weren't asking me, but i think rumr has about 3 pairs of shoes for every different climbing he might encounter. imho, with the correct fit mythos can do just about anything pretty damned well - up to a point ... but after some use, they certainly can't edge like a pair of anasazi velcros will. but they will almost certainly be more comfortable. as for smearing ... well, that kind of climbing just freaks me out! hey! i fessed up to being a shoe slut...your anaz are too tight...that's all... yeah, but the next size up is too big. i must not have an "anasazi" foot. just get prego...you'll go up a size in your feet

too stiff means too insensitive...i personally wanna know what's going on with the shoe, especially if i'm sketching out. some people would rather not know, they just put their foot delicately on the hold and forget about it. stiff vs. soft...personal choice...i've seen some sick friction climbing in stiff shoes and i've seen some sick edging in soft shoes... they fit the same to me on my foot...edge the same too, i just have no idea when the galelio's are going to pop off a hold...i have both and reach for the anazazis first. they fit the same in the front...heel fit is neither better nor worse between the shoes, just different.

I think what most people are attributing to as improved rubber is more of an improved last. this has been the most significant changes since sticky rubber first came out...you can get nowadays, a much more glovelike fit with an anatomical last and not having to resort to the old lazer (remember those?) approach of buying them 3 sizes too small and then stretching them to fit your foot.

i know you weren't asking me, but i think rumr has about 3 pairs of shoes for every different climbing he might encounter. imho, with the correct fit mythos can do just about anything pretty damned well - up to a point ... but after some use, they certainly can't edge like a pair of anasazi velcros will. but they will almost certainly be more comfortable. as for smearing ... well, that kind of climbing just freaks me out! hey! i fessed up to being a shoe slut...your anaz are too tight...that's all...

irrelevant...anything i can climb in 5.10 i can climb in madrock or vice versa... young grasshopper there is no argument...

no, i do not believe that the shoes need to be painfully tight...the key is that your foot must not move inside the shoe when its edging or smearing, obviously if bone crushing tight, its not gonna move...but there is a size that is snug, but not crushing, where the foot is locked within the shoe, but still comfortable. Ideally, one would want uniform pressure around the foot without high pressure points...Hence comments, like "i have a sportiva foot" or "five tens are too narrow"... i believe, and this is my opinion and hardly "fact", that when people blame the rubber for losing an edge, or that the shoe is rolling/folding off of an edge (similar to the way you describe your fivetens) its not the shoe giving way or the rubber slipping, but the foot moving inside the shoe. with regards to stiff vs. soft shoes, the mechanism that the shoe uses to stay attached to the hold is different (soft shoes "conform" around the hold, allowing for some hooking action, and stiff shoes "catch" on the hold in a mechanical lock) but the foot within the shoe is performing the same...strong toes and foot muscles can mitigate foot movement within the shoe somewhat. climbing cracks, you are not as worried about foot movement within the shoe as the entire unit is being jammed and/or cammed in the crack so the shoes can fit more loosely... these are my thoughts based on my climbing in the areas that i frequent and my abilities, limited as they are. take them for what they are worth...about $0.02

what are you crying about? you got a tude as well??? man, everyone around here is on full-bore-sensitive mode today...

not offended at all...but you never know with my "attitude"... haven't checked the new ones out...saw some brown version of the mythos but don't know what it is or is about...

master?? Looks like you have the "attitude"...

isn't this exactly what i said???

OK...let me try and spell this out really clearly...I'm a complete shoe slut...ask anyone, i've literally gone through hundreds of shoes over 18 years of climbing and i'm telling you, in my experience, the rubber on the shoe is relatively insignificant to the fit of the shoe on your foot...if the shoe rolls on your foot, you can epoxy the damn thing to the wall and you're still not gonna get the move...rubber is completely irrelevant to the performance of the shoe...hell, i even thought boreal s3 and fusion(which everyone swears sucks) worked just fine...

i disagree with you and i have an attitude? whatever matt... in my experience, mythos quickly degrade into an extremely comfortable, soft all day shoe...so i have an attitude because of that? well maybe so, but it seems to me that i may have an attitude but you are sporting a "sensitive" nerve...you asked for my opinion, there it is...

and you are saying that mythos have side-to-side rigidity? those things are made for puffin' a pipe and reading the newspaper...

stickiest rubber? Welcome to marketing...uhhh gee, i fell off my latest proj cuz my shoe rubber just wasn't up to snuff... I have compared Madrocks to my Anasazis on technical slab, and the Madrocks were significantly better. My statement is based upon reality not marketing. Please tell me you've done the same, and aren't just guessing. technical slab was giving your anazasis problems?? sounds like operator error to me or maybe too much I honestly can not tell a significant difference in the rubbers...I've had mad rocks and sportivas and 5.10's and have had them all resoled and couldn't tell the difference in performance of the rubber... You really really think one pair of shoes over another is gonna make a difference in the performance department if each shoe fits you? maybe that's why i suck...i just haven't found the right sticky rubber for me...

mytho's edged better? man, you are waaaaay backwards, i've never been able to get mythos to edge after they were more than 2 hours out of the box...what kind of fivetens? the anazasi is an incredible edging platform...miuras are pretty good too Personally, i can't really tell too much difference between sportiva/madrock/c4 rubber...

stickiest rubber? Welcome to marketing...uhhh gee, i fell off my latest proj cuz my shoe rubber just wasn't up to snuff...

not at all...think "relax" as opposed to actually stretching...

so i've heard...

no, he had poor sleep and no food for four days...he was probably half delirious... if the corollary to your post was true, its obvious that you've been fasting since the day you were born...

...exactly! the little kid hadn't eaten in four days...shit, you whacks stuff your pieholes and are barely coherent...

pot kettle black

...by all means necessary, do feel free to speed it up...cobracommander? more like gartersnake_puke...

you guys are sick, callous fucks...grow up and drop dead, shitheads...

IT WAS ME AND I'M GLAD I FUCKED UP YOUR STUPID GATHERING!!!!!!!

fuck all of you stupid tools... a story like that and you bitches start complaining...fuck off...the kid was doing what his parents told him: "don't talk to strangers"... can't you be glad that a.) he was found and b.) there wasn't a sicko involved for once????? Jeezus fucking christ, i hate this stupid site and its attending stupid posters