mr.radon

Five slings; 2 new, 2 okay, 1 bad. Cut in half, rings taken, left cut slings.

Climb: The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!-Easy Route Date of Climb: 9/6/2004 Trip Report: REPOST per admin request... All right I go to take a novice out to the Tooth. We left late to avoid the crowds. There was a party of two coming off and a party of three. No problem. I saw the party of two rap the gully were the climb starts. And I remeber checking out the rap sling there. Two pretty new slings were on the first rap, two that were so-so and one that was a little iffy. Half way up the party of three rap's past us, no big deal. They were here from South America (Argentian) on a month long vacation. They are total TOOLS!!!! I saw them hike out the way you come in thinking why did they do that? Well we rap off the summit and go set the rap for the gully. They cut all the slings! Even the two good ones that were like brand new. They also took the rap rings??? WTF???? There were two rap rings and they took them. They better not run into me again while they are out here. I can see pulling skank slings but to cut every single sling take the rings and leave the slings is uncalled for. The slings weren't even stuck they just didn't even bother to haul them out. I wrapped a cord around the anchor and added two sling pieces so I could rap off the gully, it was getting late and this was much faster. If anyone heads up there bring a rap ring or two and some webbing. I wish I had gotten there names. Two Americans and there Argentian girlfriend. Does anyone just cut a rap anchor even if all the slings are bad? I figure leave it so the rap rings stay, cut off the skank one(s) and add a new sling or just leave it alone.......

Climb: The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!-Easy Route Date of Climb: 9/6/2004 Trip Report: All right I go to take a novice out to the Tooth. We left late to avoid the crowds. There was a party of two coming off and a party of three. No problem. I saw the party of two rap the gully were the climb starts. And I remeber checking out the rap sling there. Two pretty new slings were on the first rap, two that were so-so and one that was a little iffy. Half way up the party of three rap's past us, no big deal. They were here from South America (Argentian) on a month long vacation. They are total TOOLS!!!! I saw them hike out the way you come in thinking why did they do that? Well we rap off the summit and go set the rap for the gully. They cut all the slings! Even the two good ones that were like brand new. They also took the rap rings??? WTF???? There were two rap rings and they took them. They better not run into me again while they are out here. I can see pulling skank slings but to cut every single sling take the rings and leave the slings is uncalled for. The slings weren't even stuck they just didn't even bother to haul them out. I wrapped a cord around the anchor and added two sling pieces so I could rap off the gully, it was getting late and this was much faster. If anyone heads up there bring a rap ring or two and some webbing. I wish I had gotten there names. Two Americans and there Argentian girlfriend. Does anyone just cut a rap anchor even if all the slings are bad? I figure leave it so the rap rings stay, cut off the skank one(s) and add a new sling or just leave it alone.......

There’s another correlation, I think all these guys graduated from kindergarten too...Hum? Hitler had a few close calls getting off'ed I bet there are a lot of dead people who wish his lights went out a lot sooner then 1945. When is it expedient to get rid of a monster? When does the cost out-weigh the benefit? Maybe the USA is stepping back and taking a different approach. Look at the recent happenings in Venezuela.

jkrueger: I got a few pics of you guys standing on that ledge. We were a bit worried about your status. Glad to know you made it out fine, smart choice. And for info on my down jacket; I did wear it in the rain on the descent. No loss in warmth my body stayed dry. I don't know what is on the shell but it was still dry when I got too warm near Aasgard pass and took it off. I figure if wind blown rain can't get the down wet it would have been perfect in a slightly sheltered forced bivy. It kept me drier and warmer then my old rain shell would have. Last time I was out in the rain with it the "Gore-Tex" wetted out like a cotton shirt. I need a new one. Short of a snow storm we were going to be fine. Heck we could have aided the entire Fin using a cam if it had started to rain earlier.

Serious advice... Seems to me you proved "climb dumb and you'll generally get away with it." The Fin is the last place you would want a wet & hypothermic or injured climbing partner. With a "strong" system moving in that day and a general sense of how long you expected to be on route the first thing in your pack should have been raingear. Learn to climb smart and the lightness will follow.... Other than that that was a shitty day around these parts The success quote was tounge in cheek. I admit we would have had a hard time explaining my lack of gear if came to that. But something has to be said on a 21 pitch route, every ounce is going to hold you up a little. With the leader able to blaze ahead without carrying that second pack we made good time. I couldn't see adding more gear to the pack we had. I did have a good down jacket that warmed me up at the summit but no bivy gear. I could have tuffed out a night up there but it would not have been fun. We saw no steps cut in the glacier. Make them bigger next time. Glad we were not the only ones to get held up there. Hail, ouch. :-(

Climb: Dragontail - -Backbone Date of Climb: 8/21/2004 Trip Report: We make a noisy entrance into the parking lot waking a few people sleeping in bivy's next to their cars Friday night. As soon as I park I realize I've forgotten one nice to have item: my HEADLAMP! I didn't remember to grab it out of the upstairs coat closet before we left, argh! jdog and I waste no time setting up our bivy's. We are both excited about the climb, while at Safeway I anticipated how hard it would be to fall asleep with such a big climb ahead of us so I bought two 24.5 oz. Foster beers to aid in this department. In hind sight we really should not have drank those beers. 8-21-04 Climb Dragontail Around 3 AM jdog is telling me to get up. I telling him to bugger off till I remember we are here to climb. Drinking that beer was not a good idea at all, I feel queasy. We eat and pack as quickly as we can. jdog and I then go through all our gear, leaving some items in my trunk. We take my small cams and nuts, his large cams, all my slings and quickdraws (7 total). We decide to split the team gear and are soon repacked and off for a nice day climbing. The plan is to be up and off before the weather system moves through. The weather report predicted a strong storm front to be moving through Seattle later in the day. We hoped it’s arrival will be delayed since we are far East of Seattle. I’m ready a few minutes before jdog and make an attempt to fall asleep in the driver’s seat. jdog ruined my plans before I could even realize them. Hitting the trailhead at 4:15 we make excellent time, even with me needing to follow jdog closely due to my headlamp mistake. However, creek crossings are tricky since I couldn't follow very well jumping rocks; jdog crossed and then light the way for me. About half way to Colchuck Lake we pass two climbers heading for the Serpentine Ridge, a slightly easier route then ours going up Dragontail. They are far behind when we reach the lake. I don't recall the lake being so large, getting to the other side is a long trek. We pass our former camp site from many Easter’s in the past. At the far end of the lake we take a break. Preparing for the climb we throw everything we don’t need for the climb into jdog’s pack which he leaves hangs in a nearby tree while I load our down jackets, single headlamp, food, rope and crampons into my backpack. jdog carries the climbing rack; I really got the short end of the stick with this deal as my backpack out-weighs the rack! From the lake we ascend the scree/moraine field between Colchuck Peak and Dragontail. jdog and I climbed Colchuck Glacier around Easter in 2000 with Shawn. That climb was much easier since these nasty & loose rocks were covered with snow and ice. These loose rocks are horrible today! jdog is a bit ahead of me, partly because he took off earlier and partly because I was still feeling the unwanted side effects of the beer. I was hoping the feeling would get better. To get to the start of the climb you have two options. Climb high and cross the steep icy glacier or hug the edge of the rock face where the glacier has formed a moat avoiding the glacier crossing and a possible slip/fall. We descend around the icy glacier and follow the moat. Above a particularly hard moat corner jdog waits for me. This particular moat follows a bend in the rock wall. I couldn't figure out how jdog swung around it. I climb up on the rock face and try to swing around but lose my footing and fall several feet into the moat. My right foot hits a small rock rolling my very tender right ankle. I yelp in pain quickly followed with profuse cursing. I throw the pack off my shoulders as jdog yells down, "Did you hurt yourself?" I yell up, "(@)% YES!" He says he is going to climb down and check me out. I nurse the ankle, gently moving it and try to put weight on it; I cry a little. Ever since the last major sprain when I tore ligaments the ankle has been very unstable. In this case I rolled it pretty good but since the ligaments are gone there is nothing left to tear. After the initial pain wave is gone I can again bear weight, I can tough it out. I'm pretty pissed at myself and the ankle situation, I hate being limited by injuries. Before jdog can down climb I manage to get around the corner on a second try. From here we can now access the ascent gully. This gully is a choss pile waiting for careless climbers to slip. The fifth class scrambling to the base of the climb is invigorating. By the time I get to swing the pack off my back I breathing pretty hard and sweating. Leaning against the pack I look up at the face thinking what have I gotten myself into today? At the start of the first pitch (5.6) I throw gear out of the pack and jdog lays down the gear sling. I pick up the gear sling and now know why jdog was able to move so fast. jdog hoists the back pack and notices the discrepancy, thankfully he offers to carry the pack on the descent, A big smile forms on my face. I decide to start up the first pitch. I want to be up front with jdog that I don’t want to lead any hard pitches today. I’ll grab all the easy ones but my ankle is bothering me and beer is still swilling around my gut. The first pitch is fun. I work my way up quickly but safely even though the rout finding is not straight forward. The route description is horrible, not detailed at all. The terrain is forgiving though and I manage to get to a nice belay station as jdog yells 10' of rope left. I set a belay quickly and jdog is soon standing next to me. From here the crux is plain to see, a horrible looking 6" off-width. Off-width is called that since it is too big for a fist jam, to small for a body jam, just the wrong size for any good jams. jdog pulls out the large cam we've borrowed from Rudy just to protect this pitch. He leads off while I watch. I take a few photos of him as he heads up. It looks like a lot of work. Slowly he makes his way up the pitch. At the end he puts me on belay. I've got the pack so it might be a little harder but at least I didn't have to lead this pitch. I move my camera bag to the other side of my harness since it looked like jdog used his body to shimmy up part of the pitch. I get up a few feet when I get to the blue Camalot. I give it a big tug and then use it to yard (aid) my way up the first third of the crack. After this the going gets much, much harder. The blue cam is too small to be of further use so I have to figure out something different. I can get my left leg into the off-width and jam it in, but there is little in there to step on. I get my ankles scraped up, my knees are toast too. At least with a leg jammed in it will be hard to fall out. I make progress ever so slowly like jdog. The last third is interesting as the crack gets narrower. I reach jdog's perch and look back in amazement. What a lead he had. I'm exhausted and tell jdog he has to lead the next pitch. He takes off and belays me to him. Here we re-read the route description, the next pitch should be a 5.7 which transitions into low fifth class climbing to the Fin. I take the lead and find a nice 5.7/5.8 crack. Really good climbing for about 40'. Here I encounter an un-expected off-width that the guide says to avoid, 5.9. I get into it and try to place a cam, but the placement sucks. I remove the cam and gut it out. The large cams are in the pack by jdog's feet, worthless to me. I run out the rope on this off-width reaching the top I happily calm my nerves by placing a solid cam. I then have the guts to look down at the fall I could have taken, wow! I finish the pitch but find no gully. jdog reaches me and leapfrogs over me. We have to hurry up, we can see the cloud corer getting thicker and more ominous looking. It’s going to be a close call with Mother Nature today. jdog quickly reaches the low fifth class scrabble, we double up the rope and simo climb. We make fast but sure footed progress up the ledge systems to the base of the fin. We continue up the ledges till we are at the middle of the Fin. We set up a belay and jdog gets ready to climb again. We reread both route descriptions and debate about our current location on the sketch of the route we have. jdog looks and then decides we are in the right spot. He launches himself up the face to a supposed 5.9 crack. This one is much easier then the off width but we are still encountering some loose rocks and crumbly holds. I follow and reach jdog's gear belay in a crack. He takes off again doing the nice layback described in our guide. I have fun on this section, convinced that we only have one more easy pitch to get off this rock. Now the weather is moving in, the clouds are thick and overhead, Mount Stuart is getting pounded already; I’m getting very cold every time we stop. A little bit of rain starts to fall, thankfully not enough to wet the rock yet. At every belay I’m freezing, I haven’t brought enough cloths and NO rain gear. jdog climbs another lead almost toping out. He can't finish the pitch with our 50M rope. He sets up a hanging belay off a large flake no more then 20' from the Fin's crest. I reach jdog's nice perch and we talk about the situation. I looked over the remaining section from below and now that I am next to jdog I find it even more undesirarble. I apologize and tell him I can't climb that. jdog sucks it up like a real trooper and racks up. I throw a cam into the crack and make myself safe as we switch roles. A hanging belay is a bit more complicated to swap roles. I put jdog on belay and he unties and leads the last pitch. 10' up I see he’s into the difficult section. He manages to get a cam in but then has to hang off of it. I’m really glad I didn’t lead that pitch now. I have to admit, jdog doesn't give up easily. He attacks the crux again and manages to somehow mantel over the crux and get a piece of pro in. He quickly tops out and starts to curse loudly. From what I can gather we are off route, this isn’t the way to the ledge system and the summit. jdog says he’s standing on top of the Fin looking down at an overhang to the ledge below. He can safely make it there with me lowering him but there is no safe way for me to get there! jdog and I need to decide what to do. It’s now clearly obvious the notch to my left is the correct finish on the Fin. However, to get to the notch from my belay station there is an impossible traverse. jdog and I talk about our options, we review them and decide to execute. I can't find a flaw in his plans. We decide to leave some gear on this one. jdog places a nut and lowers off of it to retrieve the cams he placed to protect his climb to the top of the Fin. I then keep him nice and tight as he climbs back up to the Fin's crest. Then I lower him to the ledges below on the other side of the Fin and he climbs up to the notch to my left. After a few minutes I can see his head poke out just about 20' away. He sets up a belay and unties from the rope. He pulls in about 30' of slack and then throws me the coil. I easily catch the rope and tie into it. So now I'm hanging off the belay via locking carabineers and am tied into both ends of the rope. I lock off the section I just tied into as a back up and carefully review the plan before I unrope. I untie the rope that follows the route jdog took to the Fin's crest. I yell to jdog and he pulls up the slack. Of course the last 20' of rope has to get stuck. jdog puts me on belay with the rope he threw to me from the notch. I take the hanging belay apart and lower a few feet to the stuck cam. There I add a quickdraw and tie off. I'm thinking I can tension across, but NO that will not work. I remove the quickdraw and climb higher. I grab a good two finger hold with my right hand and lock on, I have no feet and the rope is at a 45 degree angle from the notch. I don't like swinging on a 9mm rope over sharp rocks. I look down at my feet and can't help but notice the void down there. I swing the left foot wide trying to find a hold and with the left hand I feel around but find nothing but smooth granite. I reach for a small ledge but it's also a worthless hold. Finally my two finger grip gives out, I rapidly swing below the notch right into the crack. My right fingers that held me so long hurt, I'm sure I removed at least a layer of skin. I quickly ascend the crack to the notch greeting jdog with a big grin. Off! I look at the route, wow! From here there is a nice ledge. jdog takes off, unsticks the rope and ties back into the end. I hear a rock falling down the Triple Couloirs route, however, it sounds a little different. jdog yells that he dropped his belay device. I think, “Hope he knows the Munter hitch still.” jdog continues along the ledge to a belay spot. I follow jdog and notice he does remember the correct belay knot. I leap frog around a corner back to the other side of the Fin. Now there is easy scrambling to the summit. I set up a quick belay off a single cam and bring jdog to me. Together carrying the rope we scramble to the summit. By now the summit is enveloped in clouds and it starts to rain hard. I quickly grab my down jacket and put it on, I've been freezing at every belay and my body aches from the ankle pain, the bruises and the scraps. jdog and I take our first chance to eat something since our modest breakfast. I finish off my apple juice, I'm glad I filled up with apple juice today instead of water as the sugars have given me plenty of energy. My emotions are swinging. A half hour ago I was hearing church bells ringing in the valley below, harbingers of doom. There were no bells, but I heard them non-the-less. We did it but we still need to get off this peak. I’m tired, I’m a little sore, I’m invigorated by the summit rocks, I’m worried about the descent, I’m proud of the feat. jdog and I think about the next few steps. We get a little testy. I pack the gear into my pack for the descent, being done first, jdog is still coiling the rope; I wanted to carry the rope over my shoulder but he taking extra time to coil it to carry as a backpack. I tell him to stop, I’d finish the coil, he can take off with the pack and I’ll soon follow. Instead he tells me to take off. Hun? I carry the backpack? I also have no clue as to the descent path, especially in the fog; jdog’s been up here before. I cool my heels till jdog finishes coiling the rope, a nice job of it too. I wear it like a back pack and follow jdog. The first attempt ends at steep cliffs so we skirt right to an obvious descent trail leading to a small Col. Here we see the reason for the crampons and ice axe, an icy glacier now stands between us and the trail back to Colchuck Lake via Aasgard Pass. I have crampons, jdog doesn’t We start down some old steps in the snow, any fall here will send you down the icy glacier into a rocky rubble pile. After a few feet the path becomes very icy forcing us to reconsider out exit plans. I put on my crampons and laced them tight to my tennis shoes. I trail the climbing rope behind me to a rocky island in the middle of the glacier. I take off the crampons and tied them to the rope. jdog pulls the rope up to him retrieving the crampons. While I wait for jdog to get to me I find a small rock cave made by three large flat boulders, open on the right and left. I crawled inside to get out of the rain and wind. I finally get warmed up again, however, I hear constant rock fall behind me. I figured I'll be quit safe in my little hideout. jdog climbs down to me, to save time I tell him to keep going; I'll pull the crampons up rather switch here. As we discuss the route a volleyball sized rock comes hurtling towards us. I can hear it getting close and before I can react it slams into the rock I’m leaning against, the concussion felt throughout my body. A wave of fear sweeps over me as I realized that 12" separated me from instant dismemberment. I leave the cave and find better protecting behind a very large boulder. Here in the rain I wait for my turn to with the crampons. When I do get them back jdog is off the ice. Since I didn't have to give them back I leave them on and descended straight down the glacier avoiding further travel on the loose scree as jdog has to do. It’s a lot easier to walk down the icy slope then that loose rock pile. After the glacier descent we met up again. In twenty minutes we reach the lake at Aasgard Pass, a very windy and wet experience. From the pass we find a faint trail leading to Colchuck basin. Following this trail proves to be difficult. Never having been on it we have no clue where it goes. Right left, and DOWN. The trail for most parts is good but it keeps disappearing. Near bottom and after a gorgeous sunset the trail stopped right above some cliffs. Frantically searching we finally find the trail by traversing way right. Once down I gaze back to where we had cliffed out, very steep! Glad we found the right trail before sunset! I hurry my way to the lake wanting to be off the boulders by the time it’s dark. I didn't have a head lamp so I have extra motivation. We made it! When we arrived at the place jdog ditched his backpack and take a long deserved break. The hike back to the car is long, with many more uphill sections then I remembered from the hike in. Fortunately the rain had stopped half way down Aasgard Pass. The last mile to the car is most painful. I twisted the sore right ankle three more times heading out, every step is one more then I want to take. We just kept going till we see the trailhead sign; RELEIF! To tired to drive home we lay out or bivy bags again. I fall asleep immediately but soon the heavy rains come. I wake to find my head soaked, I slid further into the bivy and closed the clam shell over my head. I neglect to remember my cloths, stuffed into a black bag used as a pillow, were still in the rain. 8-22-04 Return home By morning the bag is soaked, however, fortunately for me the clothes inside are amazingly dry. Nice since these are the only cloths I brought. Packing the car we run into the climbers who reached the summit first via the Serpentine Route. Yesterday we had also seen a second party on that route, they had not yet come out. Speaking with these climbers we told them we took pictures of them on route. They mentioned they had some of us so we agreed to trade via e-mail. We head off to Leavenworth to get some grub. I ordered a full meal; (2) eggs, big pile of hash browns, and 2 slices of toast with one large waffle. jdog also ate about as much. I spent the drive home reflecting on our climb. Post Climb Thoughts I gave a lot of thought to some things: Racing weather SUCKS Racing weather without weather gear SUCKS Racing weather knowing you can’t go down without going up SUCKS No helmet (me) No rain gear (me) No long pants (me) No headlamp (me) No crampons (jdog) We did fine but we would have had a hard time explaining our lack of gear to a rescuer. That made me think about some of the risks we took. However, we proved: climb light, success is guaranteed; bring bivy gear, you will bivy. Out of all the alpine rock climbs I've ever done this was the most enjoyable. Enjoyable being directly proportional to the amount of adrenaline dumped into my system. The route had everything and threw everything at us it could. We suffered through it all. The route deserves its Grade IV+ rating, I'm glad I've got it under my belt now. We both agree we made a few mistakes, especially with the gear we didn’t bring. But most importantly we made clear headed decisions when it counted. I’d like to drop by someday and do the Triple Couloirs Route or the Serpentine route. Sooner then later.

You can F off. First off my dad was there and these are his feelings too. His VN veteran friends all think this guy is a back stabbing traitor for what he did after he came back. As for history a good friend of mine and co-worker is from VN. He lived in the North and fled for his life with his family when the good 'ol commis started killing people who didn't want that form of government (North VN not South). He worked for the CIA before leaving the country just before the collapse. He has many interesting stories about the war and VN history. I'm sure you've learned all your history from reading books but not talking with a single person who is actually from VN and lived through it. Arrogant POS that thinks you know so much more then everyone else. All the left wingers were so off base, just like Kerry. Throw crap on the honorable men that served over there. The left wing anti-war nuts should have been protesting against the government officials that ordered the guys over there instead of calling the poor old soldiers baby killers when they got off the plane in San Francisco. And Yes I have a copy of what Kerry read. None of the allegations were ever proven, 100% lies. Nothing better then to repeat hearsay from something someone else told you. Quick way to say well he told me that. They chased his stories and none proved out. No one stepped up to the plate and said yes I did those things on this date in this area to this person. Kerry told lies against the very men he fought with to further his agenda. He’s a big ol POS! My dad killed a lot of people over there and all of them were trying their best to kill him. He didn't rape, pillage, torture. Sure there are war crimes in all conflicts but for Kerry to lie like he did to the Senate and participate in the activities he did is disgusting. Your living in a dream world. Why not bring up our killing raping and pillaging of the native Americans? The VN war was started after WWII when nations wanted to throw off the yokes from Europe. Sure 20/20 hind sight makes what happened look pretty dumb now. I draw the conclusion, different from you. Back in 1962 we should have made a choice: 1) invaded the North and exterminated the commies 2) never have entered in the first place. Typical political BS, do it half assed.

We were on Dragontail's Backbone. I was watching the weather move in on Stuart and thought back to the EPIC we had when we got weathered in. Let's say I was very motivated to get off the Fin before that stuff smacked into us. SEE THE ATTACHMENT, STUART IN THE CLOUDS TAKEN FROM DRAGONTAIL'S FIN We topped out just as it started to rain hard and get foggy. We saw two parties on the Serpentine Ridge. One got ahead of us when we goofed on the Fin, but the other party was way below us, I didn't see them at all. When I was hearing the radio I thought that they would correct themselves and say Dragontail. We met the party that was ahead of us in the parking lot the next morning. But we never did see the second party hike out. I hope they were alright. Anyone? We bivy'd in the parking lot Saturday night since we were too tired to drive home when we got back to the trailhead, 20 hours car to car. It just rained and rained. I really feel for those souls that were stuck on Stuart.

I think Kerry did a great service going to VN. However, everything he did after he came back makes me think he is the bigest slim ball in the universe. He did everything but rub crap in the veteran's faces. Now that he want to get elected he wants their support because he fought over their. My beef is with what he did when he came back. At least Bush wasn't out there calling them baby killers and war criminals. What a choice we have this year....

Heard on the radio while stuck in traffic two got off Stuart. One got hit by a rock slide and both were slightly hypothermic. If they were in there since Saturday what an epic. We climbed Dragontail this Saturday and watched as Stuart got hammered around 2PM. Motivated us to get the heck outa dodge...... More details on this incident???

Pleanty of places to top off on water. It was hot so I put snow in my water bottle, had cool water at every break. On the large off width, there is a small finger crack running about waist high. I did a lie-back off of it stood high and put in a fist jam up higher. The crack narrows down. I got through pretty quick. I think we cliped the stuck cam but didn't leave any gear. Anyone hear of the rescue on Stuart a few hours ago?

Ignored the tickets I've gotten. Haven't thrown me in jail YET... I would pay if they made it easier to do so. A drop box, a parking ticket pay machine anything to make it easy. I have no clue where a single USFS office is. From now on I'll just stick on with magnets my old CT plates from 16 years ago and cover up the VIN number. Think they ticket out of state'ers as much as people from in state????

Ice tool was to cross the Stuart glacier. I took a pole last time. I would not have been able to stop had I fallen. Ice tool was lighter and smaller then full ice axe. The descent: all snow can and should be avoided. Easy non-technical just long and dusty.

Send a PM I made a list. 14-17K??? Just go from 14K and back. No reason to go and camp at "Capm Misery"

Climb: Mount Stuart-North Ridge Date of Climb: 7/24/2004 Trip Report: 7-26-04 After thoughts: Wow, is all I can say now that I have had two days to think back and reflect on this climb. Something about having a chance to forget about the bugs, the scree descent, the oppressive heat, the back pack straps rubbing through raw skin, the crushed toe aching with every step. Now I remember the airy views, the tranquility, the sound of my breath as I contemplate the next move, the rustling of the gear as I adjust my stance, the feel of my pulse as my heart pumps forcefully. This climb is the reason I climb. 7-23-04, Friday Jdog and I have always wanted another chance at the North Ridge of Mount Stuart. Back in 2002 we tried the whole ridge; Lower & Upper. We ended up with an epic retreat, our tails well between our legs. We received a nice lesson from mother nature and learned that small signs should be headed. Never will I bivy on a ledge while watching interesting and ominous cloud formations without getting scared out of my mind. Those neat clouds that looked so interesting I took pictures of them, neat and peaceful was mother nature's subtle warning to "Get Out" as one popular movie put so well. Two years was about enough time to get our wits back, or better yet let us forget what caused our wits to run away. We still wanted to complete the climb. We were not going to throw ourselves on the lower ridge since we completed it, but this time we were going to start were we left off, climb to the notch and finish the rest of the North Ridge climb. Also, last time we debated doing the Gendarme variation. This time Jdog was confident he could lead the two pitches. We debated the ever debated issue, to bivy or not to bivy. Weight is an issue on the hike in and the climb. Who wants a thirty pound pack while doing a 5.9 lie-back crack climb? The heavy pack will slow you down and it will then take for sure two days. To do it in one day you have to leave early. If you run into problems you will have to bivy, however, without any bivy gear. Hum... We decide to play it by ear. I bring the stuff to bivy two ropes and all my rock climbing gear. By 2PM I swear the clock is moving slower and slower. I’m nervously anxious for the climb. At 3PM Jdog meets me in the Kenworth parking lot, he’s going to park his car there while we climb. We go through the gear. We decide to bring my 9mm 50M rope, not the 8mm 60M rope. (last time we had a 60M 10mm climbing rope & a 9mm 50M rope for hauling) We leave most of my large cams in the car, Jdog is bringing his big Black Diamond cams. They have a larger range then my Metolius Cams. I bring about 8 quick draws, my gear sling, a set of nuts and there are about 10 slings between the two of us. Jdog throws a few quick draws in too. For an emergency I have brought my down jacket and gloves. For food I've got some gummy rings (peach), GU, cereal bars and 32oz of cool aide and 32oz of Gatorade. We pile into the car and drive the North Bend where I gas up and we get some food at Safeway. I get a pound of Rainier cherries and breakfast stuff since I didn't bring any. From there the drive over the pass is uneventful. In Cle Elum we stop off to have dinner at a local diner. We both order spaghetti. We get to the trailhead for Ingalls Lake/Peak around 8:30, the sun has still to set. There aren’t as many cars as I had expected. The bugs are pretty thick and I decide to sleep in the car. I didn't bring the screen mesh for my bivy. Jdog finds a spot in the brush next to the out house. I quickly fall asleep but wake up several hours later covered in sweat. I'm worried to lower the windows since doing so would let the mosquitoes in. Later in the night a diesel pick-up truck comes rumbling by waking me again. 7-25-04, Saturday I wake 15 minutes before my alarm goes off. I look at the stars and wonder. They are so bright out here and so wonderful. My alarm goes off at the same time Jdog pounds his fist on the side of the car. He had moved his bivy next to the car sometime during the night. I put on my head lamp, get dressed, then eat, then pack. In the process I forget to attach my camera to my backpack. This I didn't realize till it was much too late. We divide the rope and gear equally, sign the trail register, and head up the trail at 1:55 AM. Jdog sets a blistering pace for the first 1/4 mile. I'm thinking this is not good. However, he slows a little, we even out keeping the pace brisk. I had kept on my pullover which now made me way too hot. I stop to pull it off and throw it on my pack and have to catch up with Jdog again. About a mile later I notice there is no camera strapped to my back pack. Crap! I really hope it's inside the pack, if not inside the car. The air is still warm from yesterday. The rocks still radiate heat from yesterday. A foreboding of things in store for us today, we just know it’ll be another scorching hot day. Surprisingly we make Ingalls Pass by 3:10, only 1:15! Pretty good, just prior to the pass we disturb a couple of people sleeping in Bivy bags alongside the trail. We rest just a minute or so before we continue to Ingalls lake. At the lake we hit some patches of snow, and Jdog is convinced the lake level is higher then before, he’s convinced parts of the trail is under the water. I don't think so. We work our way through the rocks and find the trail across the ridge to Stuart Pass. I didn't want to stay high on the ridge because that was not the way to go last time. The top of the ridge is hard to follow and drops 300' of elevation on you anyway. I follow a faint trial down the side that then traverses, exiting at the tree line and the base of the trail to Stuart Pass. I like this way much better in the dark. Jdog is a total tool, his headlamp is again going dim on him. He didn’t bring a charged battery! Luckily for him the sun is finally up enough that we can stop using the head lamp. Jdog is going to have problems if we have to use them again, his is just about dead. By 5AM we make Stuart Pass. The trail steeply winds 200' down the back side. You then enter a scree field with extra large boulders to access a gully leading directly to Goat pass; no goats though. The bugs are horrible here. I try to speed up but the bugs are just everywhere. On top of Goat pass there are two people camped in the bivy sites there. We head down the back side of Goat pass a little way and take a long break. I have to pull out my pull over again to protect myself from the bugs. How evil these things are. Looking at Jdog I can just see them flying around behind him in a dark cloud. I get some snow for my water bottle. This should keep it cool and refreshing for the trip. I head down to the Stuart glacier, loosing about 250' of elevation once more. At its base I strap my crampon’s onto my tennis shoes. We've also brought along ice tools for the crossing. My left crampon doesn't stay on very long, its like a dangerous flip flop. The prussic cord I used to tie it on keeps it from totally falling off. Not very safe. I don’t notice any recent foot prints, maybe no one is at the notch? This would be great. The base of the notch looks very formidable, it looks darn steep. The snow leading to the notch seems firm, last time there was a big step to get on and off the snow. There is even snow in the gully. Jdog leads the way up the snow field, I have to follow in his footsteps since I can't kick step. We cross dirt/scree and then snow again, finally ending up on solid dry rock. The last 150' to the notch is a wonderful fourth class scramble. We make the bivy's at the notch right at 7AM. Great time to this spot. We take a long break and talk about the climb. We eat a little get into our climbing harnesses and watch the sun rise fully from the East. To the North there is a fire, but there isn't much visible smoke to see; instead the sky is vibrant with color, a deep orange tint, merging with the dark blue of sunrise. Enough with goofing off. I take the first lead. Since the pitches to the Gendarme from here are all low fifth class we will simo-climb. I tie into both ends of the rope, Jdog ties into the middle. I take the rack (all the gear) put everything in my backpack, throw it on; ugh its heavy. And I launch myself up the rock around 8:15. Aggressively, I head up, but soon see I've goofed, the ridge drops off and I have to descend back to it. I protect the down climb for Jdog as much as I can and belay him to me. Reminder: if you see a rappel anchor it probably means there is a down climb or you're off route. After that I make good time knocking off the first 5 pitches before I have to take a break on a nice flat section shaded from the sun. I’ve got to get my rock climbing shoes off! I also need more gear. So far the climbing has been pretty easy and straight forward. The entire time you’re scampering along this wonderfully small ridge. At one point I had come to a sharp fin, as I grabbed the top of the fin and ascended its steep side I peered over it’s crest; the other side dropped straight back to the Stuart glacier. The view is fabulous. Jdog takes the lead here, he grabs the gear and shoots off. Once again the climbing is moderate, there is a short crack section that is fun and soon we are crossing over to the Gendarme. I was worried about the ridge crossing to the Gendarme. It wasn’t bad at all. All the photos make it out to be very exposed, nothing to it at all. I also didn't think we'd get there this quickly, its only 10:50. The Gendarme looks mean and big. It casts a big shadow, the crux moves luckily being in the shade. I immediately take my shoes off again, my big toes are killing me. Jdog looks over the first 80' 5.9 layback crack climb, the first of two crux pitches. He heads up keeping his back pack on. On this pitch there are three places you can rest relatively safely. After getting up the first two, Jdog decides to take off his back pack and leave it behind, he clips it to a cam attached to the wall. At the top of this pillar he makes himself safe and I get ready to climb. I tie myself in short to the rope. I trail about 20' of slack. On the way up my pack is trying to pull me over. The pitch is wonderful. there is great placement for your feet, great hand holds and the rock is dry, At Jdog's pack I tie the end of the rope to it and top out next the Jdog and pull his pack up behind me. I had heard of this pillar but didn't expect it to be so small! Jdog is sitting down, I'm standing up and behind him I throw his pack. Jdog makes me safe and I just stand there, not wanting to look off the rear of this pillar nor the right side of it. I know both views might cause me to mess myself. We're pretty high up at this point. I look at the pillar where it attaches to the Gendarme. There’s a large 5" crack! The whole pillar is ready to come down! I'm now standing on top of what I’m convinced is currently the most unstable rock on this massif. Jdog has made a belay anchor with three pieces of pro. We do a little dance on the small pillar as we swap gear and he gets ready for what I see as a short but hairy, crazy, exposed and tuff 5.9 off width. Somehow Jdog has to traverse out 15 or 20' and then start up this off width crack for about 40'. I sit down and put him on belay. I can see right away this is as hard as it looks. I've never seen Jdog's leg jack hammer so hard just trying to put in the first piece on the traverse. If this wasn't so serious I would think it funny. But don't get me wrong, there is no way you could force me out on the sharp end of the rope. Jdog is doing this or it’s not getting done. I'm relieved to see him get a firm grip in the crack. He goes back to make sure the first piece is in, it would be a nasty swing into the pillar without it. He had clipped a quick draw in the anchor just as he left the pillar, I undo this now that he has his first piece securely installed. At the off width he moves up and tries to place the large cam we've carried all this way just for this purpose. However, it seems he just can't get it placed right. His legs start to jackhammer again, worse then before. Any more and the pillar will detach from seismic damage. Up and down he goes in the off width. Finally he drops back down again and places a small cam in a tight crack running perpendicular to the vertical off width. He apologizes for being too slow, but hell I don't care. He has to get this done or we're rappelling back down? Can't do that either. Finally he stops playing games and commits to the move. After he reaches the stuck cam he motors on up to the belay nook with confidence. I swallow hard as he says he is safe. He pulls up slack and then lowers the end of the rope. I knot the rope to his pack which he hauls up and then my pack. His belay perch is right above where I am sitting. I don’t even have to move to grab the rope. Now I have to collect my whit’s. I just saw a guy that is a better climber have a nightmare of a time on this crack. I know there is a huge drop off below this pitch; looking down might physic me out. I take apart the anchore and get ready to follow Jdog’s lead. I find the traverse pretty easy and get into the crack. Here I have a bit of trouble getting the small cam out. It is really wedged in there. I have to step up, jam my right arm into the crack while fiddling with the cam. Finally it comes out. However, inside the off width I felt at about the height of the stuck cam was a small finger crack. I jam my right fingers into this crack, lie back, move my feet high and push upwards. With my left hand I make a fist and insert it into the off width above the big cam. I'm solid, I can't believe I'm through the crux. I remove the cam and make my way up slowly. 30' up I grip a bomber hold and take the opportunity to look down. Wow! There is nothing but air below me till the Stuart glacier. I'm impressed. I tell Jdog I really like this view! The last move to the belay notch is spicy. Nothing to grab a hold of, just a delicate face move up to slap high fives with Jdog. We read the route description again and again. I'm convinced I read there were three 5.9 pitches on this route. I re-read again it sounds like there are two different ways to continue. 1) around the right corner, a 5.6 exposed move. 2) up and over a simple 5.8 crack. I move to the left and like the crack I see. Then I go back to the right. I look down at the swing I'd take if I fall off this ledge. I swallow and look again. There is no way I am even going to try that move. I can see no hand hold what so ever! 5.6 my arse.... I head over and commit to the crack system above us. Doesn’t look that dirty, someone has climbed it. The start is a committing move. I make a bad gear placement in a flaking crack. After the start the crack eases off and soon I'm placing gear with confidence. At the top my heart sinks. I've got to down climb a crack! I try to set gear to keep the rope from dragging up and over the edge as I down climb. A few feet below I get a nut in to protect Jdog’s descent. Rope drag makes me stop and belay Jdog to me. Jdog doesn't like the down climb (nor did I). We both can see that around the corner, the route we opted not to take, was a nice big hand hold. Now that I know it is there I'd still climb the crack! Jdog takes the lead from here. We simo climb. He stops at the short headwall and belays me to him. The last little slot I have to ascend to get to his belay station is narrow. Somehow I dislodge a flat book shaped rock. Wham, right on my left big toe. The same one that I hit with the pressure washer earlier in the week. That incident had cut it up and lifted the toe nail on me. This rock wedged on top of my foot, I could not reach down to pick it off, nor could I lift my left foot. I had to overcome the pain and wiggle my toes to get it to slide across my foot and into the empty space behind me. Two or three times the rock bounced across the toe and finally off my foot. By this time I could have just cried like a baby, instead I was pissed. Both feet were killing me and I want to get out of my rock shoes. I doubted that if I took them off I could have the pain tolerance to get my left foot back into my shoe! Jdog asked if I was alright and I said, "There’s nothing I can do about it." I grabbed the rack after looking at the next crack system. This one is mentioned to go at 5.8 but l also read this was rated at 5.9. I head up to start and it looks decent. However, halfway up I'm the one doing seismic damage to the rock and crying for my mommy. I yard on two pieces, not caring at this point to climb it totally clean. At one point I find a small flake on the left. I move my right hand but miss the hold, I start arcing backwards and in desperation throw the right hand back into the crack. I manage to snag some feature in the crack and pull myself up to the wall again. I know I'm getting pumped and can't place pro here, I just go for it. I top out into a body width sized crack panting rapidly totally flooded with adrenaline. 5.8 my arse! I quickly set up a belay and get Jdog past this section who agrees this is the hardest 5.8 ever. From here it’s only a short walk to the summit. We top out at 3:00PM not bad. I drop the pack and pull out the tennis shoes. I cry out as I pull the rock shoes off my feet. Both big toes feel like they've been repeatedly hit with a hammer. I put on socks and my nice fitting tennis shoes. Soon I'm feeling much better. Jdog pulls out some rolls, lunch meat, and pepper jack cheese. What a bud. I share a few gummy circles and a few slugs of Gatorade. We're still doing okay with water, and the sun has been in the clouds for most of the climb. It isn't that hot. We wolf down the sandwiches and pack up our climbing gear. Pretty much dividing the gear as before. I get the rope and the two biggest cams. Jdog gets the rest of the rack. At the true summit I look down to two climbers heading up the West Ridge. They look about 400' from the summit. I yell down, they say they are the first party on route today with four more far behind. Not bad beating the West Ridge people. Jdog in the mean time is signing the summit register. I also sign it below his name. I write my name into it too. I feel great! The summit has some very nice views of the surrounding area. Unlike most peaks this one is very pointy and very exposed. I really enjoy hanging out on it's summit crest. However, the descent is well known to me and Jdog. We’re not looking forward to having our bodies tortured in that way just yet. Shortly before 4PM we pack up our gear. I drink the last of my cool-aide and pour the Gatorade into my nalgean bottle. I hope to get water soon. I brought only sweet drinks with me, I crave plain cold water! As before the descent is tricky. Hope to hit the right trail this time. We descend the never ending scree gully, knees getting a pounding, arms getting a pounding, hands getting rubbed raw by grabbing rocks, slipping on rocks, avoiding snow, turning around to down climb boulders, all around torture. A quarter of the way down the couloir the sun came out. Now in addition to the hellish terrain the temperature is made to fit. To perfect Dante’s Inferno we add a heaping of miserable biting black flies which started to feast on our exposed skin. They would bite leaving blood running from the wound and fly away. I tried my best to keep the things off of me. Every time we took a break, about once an hour, I would kill dozens of these mean bugs. I'd have to keep my sleeves rolled down and collar up just to protect myself. In turn I sweated a gallon with every step. Jdog eventually found some water, I drank and drank. Nearing the end of the couloir I found a side trail heading directly to the woods. I didn't want to stay in the gully much longer so I headed off to the right. I quickly found the grass to be just as bad. The humidity was high in the vegetation, combined with the heat and flies I was miserable. It soon became obvious we were following a game trail. Foot prints were in the soil but I'm sure they were as pissed as we were that this trail suckered them into the woods too. No map, no compass, just a faint animal trail wander in the woods. The trail wasn't even nice, but slanted, sandy, meandering and just unpleasant. Multiple times we came to dense vegetation and just scratched our heads. We eventually found the main trail and debated which direction to go. It did look familiar and I headed left (west). I found a trail marker I had seen that same marker last time we were out here. Jdog remembered and eventually jogged my memory as to the correct path to take. We finally hit the trail to Long's Pass. The base of the trail is around 4,800' and Longs Pass is at 6,300'; we still had a long way to go to get out. Mainteance on this trail seems to have been stopped about 10 years ago. Many old snags have blocked the trail and a large log is used to cross over a creek. The trail wanders and isn't marked very well. At several points it splits to re-merge again further down the path. Half way to the pass we run into the first people all day, two hikers heading in. They confirm we are still on the correct path. By now I just want to get to the car and rest. 15 hours of straight climbing with little sleep is starting to take a toll on me. My packs straps are really digging into my shoulders, they have never hurt like this before. I just concentrate on the steps in front of me, put my head down and walk. Every so often Jdog and I will make some comment, but pretty much we are left to our own thoughts. Finally breaking out of the clearing we can see the top of Long's Pass. Once again we are in the full sunshine. Hot, fly bitten, dehydrated, sweaty, and sore we crest the pass. We know full well that there is still a long meandering descent trail to the parking lot, but it’s all downhill from here. I take one last look at Mount Stuart and promise myself that the next time I come back it'll be for a darn good reason. As last time the descent is maddingly slow. The trail barely descends at all, many shorts cuts have been made by past frustrated climbers. Jdog and I give in to temptation and start to cut the trail in some spots. I normally am loathed to do this but I've had it with this trail. At long last we make it to the main Ingalls Lake trail. From here on out we are quiet. Heads down we are pretty much just reflecting about the climb and out accomplishment. I'm still energized by the feat. However, my shoulders, legs, arms, hands, and especially the feet are rebelling. I also keep thinking, "How in the heck did I do the Wonderland Trail?" The sound of the campground creek gets louder and louder. Soon I can see the car and salvation. 8:45 we hit the trailhead. Total time on trail 18 hours and 50 minutes! We stop off at Dairy Queen to get some drinks and then drive back to the Kenworth parking lot dropping off Jdog and then home, shower and bed. Gear Notes: Headlamp, (LED) Crampons Tennis Shoes Climbing Shoes Heavy Wool Socks Polypro Top Polypro Bottom Shorts Wool Hat Wool Gloves Food (2) 32oz Water Bottles Full Set of Cams Set of Nuts Quick Draws (2) Locking Carabineers Daisy Chain (10) Slings Belay Device (basket) Cleaning Tool Climbing Harness Chalk Bag 50m Rope – 9mm Backpack Ice Tool Down Jacket Pile Pull Over Helmet Sunglasses Watch

Another photo of climbing fuel...

Climb: Mount Rainier-Emmons Date of Climb: 6/27/2004 Trip Report: The best summit fuel. Made it a few weeks ago. Partners were glad I could haul gear and beer. Gear Notes: Foster beer Guinness stout beer Kahlua Scotch

Might be taking a novice up. Never been there this time of the year. Opened up a lot?

Mike, I have no problem with the lack of a reply from you. I figured your time is limited and I had a question which any ranger could answer. About yesterday: The ranger and I looked at the computer screen. Each party at Camp Shurman was marked with an ®. The ranger informed me this means it is reserved in advance and not a walk up. Emmons Flats had one walk up party, the rest were all by reservation. I like the computer system you have now, it seems to be a much better system then the old schedual book. But I felt someone has not been following the rules. Other then this trip (dog route) I feel the park service does a great job managing the park's climbers. I'm used to getting on the rarely climbed routes and never having to worry about the crowds. And then it's just two of us not six. I also happen to dislike red tape, but see the need for it. I just wish it would apply to everyone but ME. :-) I'll leave no trace except for the Jiffy pop the Schuman rangers are getting from me. Think the rangers at Schuramn will prefer Foster's or Guinness Stout? Are they allowed to drink on duty?

Alright I'm really cheezed off today, this is NOT spray but a valid gripe. Maybe others have experienced this. I'm planning a trip on Rainier this weekend with a few novice friends from work, climbing the Emmons Glacier route. I admit I waited too long to FAX in the pre-registration form but that was due to the Rangers giving mis-information earlier. When jdog and I ski'd the Fuhrer Finger Route on Easter I stopped by to ask about registration thinking I could do it right then and there. First I was under the old assumption that there were two classes of climbing permits, single use and 12 month pass (from date of purchase). The Ranger at Longmire tells me if I get the 12 month pass I can't use it to register till I get it in the mail, otherwise I have to pay twice. This seemed stupid and I didn't register. I wrote Gator about this but never got a reply. Finally I decided to just bite the bullet and send the form in by FAX. First the park service had the FAX machine off, then several phone calls later I had the info FAX'ed to them. The ranger that day informed me that there were no more reserved camp spots for the last night (Sat 6/26/04) it was already 60% full. However, he did say that 40% of the sites are reserved for walk-in's. After asking I found out I could register a day before the start of the climb. Then I had him tell me exactly how many walk-in spots were available for each camp: Shurman, Emmons Flats, Camp Curtis, Glacier Basin. Plenty to get a team of six in for any day we wanted. Fine, today I get up real early (our trip starts tomorrow) and drive to the ranger station. I'm the first one to registration for a climb this morning. Lord and behold Camp Shurman is full for 6-26 and Emmons Flats is full for 6/25. I ask the ranger to please double check. The ranger lady says this must be a mistake? She shows me the display and they have given advance reservations for ALL the camp spots at Camp Shurman on 6-26 and ALL the camp spots at Emmons Flats on 6/25!!! So my itinerary is Glacier Basin tomorrow night then Shurman then Emmons Flats; this is dumb. She had no explanation for this, I'm really suspicious. I didn't hassle her but just questioned what is going on with the Park Service this year. I was told several months ago there were spots at all camp sites, and they would be held for walk-ins. I was the first walk-in to register for a Saturday and Sunday climb on the Emmons PERIOD. Each entry at the sites were designated as advanced reservations. All camp site had more then 60% reserved. I was also informed that MRNP only has one type of permit now, yearly. But it lasts for the calendar year no matter when you buy it. Another rip-off. What if I want to climb in the winter? Then I got to buy one in the month of December and then in January??? On the plus side they give the permit to you right away, no waiting in the mail. However, if you self register they still have to mail it to you. Anyway, the ranger lady this morning was the first of three different rangers that answered all my questions and corrected several misconceptions I had been given by the previous two rangers; who were all hosed up. I'd be interested to find out why the park service reserved all the camp sites in advance. This is not acceptable, either can the reservation system or run it correctly. I'm sure with the fancy software package they have it would be easy to make the system " RANGER " proof. Anyone else get jerked around this year?

I was up there this Sunday. This is so funny. The first time I was up there in the summer and its like a broiler oven, 95F. I ran into the local pub and sucked a few brews back to re-hydrate. I'm like telling the folks, really, this is where jdog and I go to climb ice!!! Attached pic of fire near lilooet.

They use Curtis ridge since that is a great place to land, flat, crevass free. It's easy to get on the Carbon and is well away from Willis Wall. I watched them recover a body one year, the guy that fall off LR skiing down. I really hope that they don't closing the mountain in bad weather. Boy, I was so happy at 18 that I didn't have to listen to my mommy anymore. About Cell Phones, we bailed from Thumb Rock one year after I called to get a weather report from a friend looking at the internet weather forcast. The weather was predicted to be clear and the storm moved in 24 earlier. Its a great tool.

The Russian para team set fixed lines up Rescue gully two years ago and over Denali Pass! Anyway I used the rope to aid in solo descents on a summit try and on summit day. the ropes were +50M ropes fixed together, just laying in the snow. They could have just used a two rope system running down the mountain to 14K, more then likely they descended R-gully since its a straight shot to camp and set up a line like the Russians did. I raised an eyebrow at this quote too. Sounds like they overheard a joke and thought it fact? Here is a picture from the entrance to the gully on the Russians line. (they were so cool to camp next to, free live music)

I'm well supplied, but thanks. Great! Can I offer you a class in gun safety? If not marksmanship might be more in line with your needs. Nothing more dangerous then a gun owner with no clue! The chance of my getting drafted is zero. The chance of my sons' getting drafted is not. If we get a "Democrat" in office and he starts a draft, then he is my mortal enemy. Funny how the only members of Congress to ask for a draft are the D. Sad to see anyone use this as a political football. Thankfully, the chance of that is zero also. My kids are as antiwar as I am. My son's babysitter thought this too. One needed college money, one wanted to escape a bad marriage. Gee, planting flags on graves? What a wonderful, feel-good activity. Sorry, no. I'll be too busy working on preventing the need for more graves. Feel good? I have sex to feel good. This is about honoring people who served our country and the day set aside for this. Since the Civil War very few people have died in combat compared to those that have served in the military. I'm talking about the millions of veterans graves, people that served and returned form war, not just those who died in combat. All the graves marked as WWII or WWI veterans were war returnees; in those wars we buried our fallen where they fell. I'm not flying to France to plant flags. Wait, wasn't France full of Peacenik's when Hitler stormed over their country in what? 21 days??? How many Americans died giving them their country back? Anyway, my small part to honor those that did serve our country.