IceScrewed

We are planning on heading in Sunday to do this climb but with the late spring are wondering how serious the traverse after the rappel might be --when I did the route in the past (in early July) it was very straight forward. I've not seen any TRs for this year. Anybody with current info on the route's condition--or just observations from being in the area of the N side recently?

Sorry for not seeing this sooner. We did the Tooth 6/28 and the trail to Source Lake was essentially free of snow (other than a few patches). Continuous snow from Source Lake to the Tooth. The traverse around the back of the Pineapple was also snow free as was the route.

We have a permit that will put us on the Burgner-Stanley this coming Thursday. From recent reports, it sounds like we need boots to get there and back from our Snow Lake campsite. It made me wonder if there was a way to leave the boots at the base of the climb (i.e. a good rap route down the S Face)? As always, your sage advice is welcome.

Thanks...I think I'l leave it for some new route choss lover.

I am interested in doing the NW Buttress on Colchuck Balanced Rock and came across a posting from 2004 that mentioned a significant rockfall having occurred on the upper half of the route. I assume it is no longer the way it reads in Beckey's CAG. Could someone fill me in on the upper part of this route's current state?

OK...now I'm psyched!

Well, sounds like Gerber Sink it is (the wet chimney being an irresistible draw)! Don't know why I didn't think of it sooner. And now I no longer need to figure out whether the BB vs. Serpentine is the less enjoyable route.

O.W. Hmmm, the Gerber Sink is an interesting idea. I did the Triple on Memorial Day 30 years ago and just remember feeling like a sitting duck as the rocks came down the Hidden and I had to guess which way they were going to bounce. How's the route finding on the Gerber Sink below the Fin. Rockfall issues from other routes or in general?

Malcolm's a funny guy, a hell of a climber, and great storyteller. If you go ask him about the time he peeled off while soloing in Eldo.

My apologies. My friend is from the Jackson area and we've spoken of doing the Serendipity Arete on Mt Owen--which my feeble mind got confused with Serpentine Arete!

I have a friend visiting from out of state and we have an Enchantment permit for the 2nd week in July. In addition to the S Face Prusik and N Ridge Stuart I was thinking we'd do either the Backbone or Serendipity on Dragontail. So what's your opinion on which is the more fun route?

Spoke to Jim Nelson about the descent of NE Face to the Boston glacier...he's never gone below the traverse ledge that takes you back to the E Ridge (although he did say he now prefers to eliminate the raps and downclimbs the upper N Ridge and picks up the traverse ledge there). Also spoke to a climbing ranger up there and he speculates that the rock lower down is chossy and that there could be non-trivial 'schrund problems upon reaching the glacier. As for us, we're leaving in a few minutes and I expect we're going to bivy at the top of the couloir on the W Ridge of Forbidden and do the two raps to the Forbidden Glacier doing the NW Face tomorrow and returning to our bivy. THe next day we'll cross Boston-Sahale Col and do the N Face. Not quite the circle I had hoped to do but some great climbing to look forward to.

While I hate to be contrary, in a year like this the couloir is really 'in' in October...

Hmmm...sounds like the big cam stays on the rack. Thanks for setting me straight (something many have tried to do for a long time).

I understand that there is a fixed piece in the off width crux so you need not bring a large cam for the Gardarme...is that true?

Thanks...yes, I considered that (and we'll probably cross over on the route just E of Sharkfin Col to avoid the rotten rock). Have either of you done the NE descent down to the glacier (i.e. how many more raps after reaching the traverse ledge...and existance/quality of rap anchors below the ledge)?

N Cascade Junkies: We're planning on doing a trip 7/13 to climb the N Face of Forbidden followed by the N Face of Buckner. Any thoughts on how you'd approach this? I was thinking of bivying at the N Ridge, doing the N Face and descending back to camp--taking a breather and traversing over to Buckner and bivying at the base of the climb then doing Buckner (and which way to go out is still unclear). Any thoughts on (1)best way to descend Forbiddent to get back tour camp (i.e. any of you ever descend either the N Ridge or do the E Ridge descent down to the glacier--that is keep descending at the point where you would normally start to traverse) (2)most efficient way in and out (3)any other thoughts? As always your sage advice (yes, I know that's leading with my chin) is greatly appreciated.

AOC, Thanks very much for the informative thread on Stuart and permits. Hopefully I'll get other input on best routes (there must be a prior thread for that one too?!)

As I know most of you don't have strong opinions, I thought I'd ask anyway. So a friend is coming from Wyoming and unfotunately I didn't get the permits to the Enchantments I wanted (yes, lost yet another lottery). I thought that we could do the NW Face of Forbidden and one of the N routes on Buckner no sweat as those permits are readily available (as opposed to Boston Basin). Also we'd have to include Snow Creek Wall (Outer Space) but would love to do N Ridge of Stuart (sorry--can't do it in a day: any ideas for how to do this? Anyone have experience with the daily 7:30 lottery? Also, we have many other days to fill. Ideas on where you'd go for high quality alpine routes up to 5.9? Your considered opinions would be greatly appreciated.

It took me awhile to read through this--with significant interruptions to deal with fits of laughter. Thanks to all of you for a most amusing evening and in return, may ChodaBoy never bid on your eBay postings...

Thanks....been there, done that re the W Ridge...but it can get a bit crowded with everyone coming and going on the W Ridge so I think I'll give the E a try.

Other than the usual bad rap that some give it, what's the issue of condition on the e ledges descent?

We're heading up to do the NW Face of the N Ridge of Forbidden this weekend. The plan is, after the 2.5 mile road hike to get to the trailhead, to cross onto Boston Basin via the gully about 100yds right of Sharkfin Col, bivy low on the N Ridge, cross the Forbidden Gl. to the climb and do the E Ridge descent. Any recent beta on conditions?

Thanks to all for the reports....and if Lowell's a 'chronic gumby' then after 25 years of this silliness, and never being more than an "average climber," I have even less hope than before as I must now think of myself as an "aspiring gumby!"

I'm planning on going up to do this route this coming weekend--approaching via the alternative to Sharkfin Col (up and to the right of Sharkfin). Anybody have any recent beta on conditions related to (1)getting into Boston Basin (2)crossing onto the Boston Glacier using the alternative to Sharkfin (3)Boston/Forbidden glacier condittions (4)access onto and NW Face of NW Ridge conditions...or just about anything else they think might be helpful as far as current conditions (which I assume are less snow than usual for this time of year) would be appreciated. Muchas gracias, amigos.