MATT_B
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Posts posted by MATT_B
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Well, she grew up in New Jersy and has yet to request I squeel like a pig so for now I am safe. Anyone know how far it is from lewisburg to NRG?
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Next week my girlfriend and I are headed to Lewisburg West Verginia. About All I know of the area is that New River Gorge is somewhere close by. We will be visiting her family and it sounds like they will be playing tour guide. I'm not sure how much time I will have to go climbing but I would like to at least give it a try. My question is what's in that area? Sport, trad, what ever. My girlfriend climbs about 5.6 on a good day so there has to be some stuff for her too. Thanx in advance for the info.
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fern said:
I've seen people use bicycle inner tube patches and barge
cement. If it is just a little hole worn in the leather go
ask a cobbler how much it'll cost to sew a reinforcement
patch on. I would think it would be way less than $40 to
patch the leather. It doesn't have to be pretty.
I have tryed the bicycle rubber thing with marginal sucess. It tends not to stick very well. One do it your self trick I have used sucessfully for a hole similar to yours was to cut a patch out of canvas or an old pair of levies. Make sure you round off all of the corners so they don't come up. Use bard cement to glue it together. Stuff the shoe with old news papers and park you car on it over night. The fix is strong cheep and flexible. Another thing to try is, as fern said, a cobbler. You could probably have it done for 5-10 bucks.
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I have not been around long enough to have much first hand experience but from what I read it sounds like individual peices of equipment have gotten lighter but for the most part the size or racks have gotten much larger. I have read a lot of route descriptions that describe the rack as being a couple of pins or a hand full of stoppers. Today people are doing some of these same routes and typically have a "standard rack" that usually includes a set of nuts, a set of cams, a set of draws . . . I am not saying this is good or bad. To each their own.
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Dru said:
If cows graze on public land does that mean the public who own the land in question can legally hunt them? "Slow elk?"
No I don't think we can hunt cows. I know of a few cougar and bears that have tryed that. They got cought and got a death centence. I think it has something to do with that endangered species act. Seeing how cows are endangered and all. The problem is with all the damn enveronmentalests trying to exterminate them cowz.
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mothboy88 said:
I think the powers that be in the climbing world should create merit badges that can be displayed on one's helmet. There could be ones for knot tying, sandbagging, bolting next to cracks...
like this?
http://www.verticalendeavors.com/ve/boyscouts.htm
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I like to keep things on my harness but I realy don't think it matters either way. On an average pitch you can expect to place roughly half of the rack. Your partner cleans the pitch and gets to the belay. Now you are both standing (or hanging) there each with about half the rack. What ever system you use you will still have to transfer about half the rack from one person to another. Yes there are time when you will only place a couple of peices and there are times that you will dump the entire rack in the crack but for the most part I would say half is a fair estimate. What I think is more important is how you clean the pitch. If you don't keep thing organized you will loose time. One of my partners used to always say "clean clean" We knew how each other liked to have the rack. When we got to the belay I would grab gear form one side of his rack and put it on my harness and he would do the same on the other side. Change over was very fast and everything was right where it should be.
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Thats shitty??? I disagree. Its a natural part of the forest. Yes it will not look all the beautiful next year but it will grow back. I know it is a bad thing when peoples homes burn down but maybe they should know the risks when the build or move out there (we should all know what it is to take some risk). The one thing I realy don't like about the whole issue is what our fearless leader has done with it. The artical I read in the oregonian was that the bush administration wants to "thin" the forests to prevent wild fires. The example they gave was to leave something like 17 out of every 50 trees in vonerable areas. On top of that they would limit environental challenge. Sounds to me like he us using public fear to make an end run around curent laws (he is good at that). So is this fire shitty? I may agree but it would be becuause of the political impacts not the natural impacts.
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Rodchester said:
This will produce too much force on the gear and is MUCH more likely to cause something to fail in a true leader fall.
How would this creat any more force on your gear? Please explain.
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do they make a lubricated errr umm I mean chalked version
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bchaps
I assume this is your first (or close to) attempt at a wall. If so I would suggest forgetting about the ledge for now. It is one more cluster-f than you need. There are plenty of walls in the valley that you don't need a ledge for. You can do the prow with out a ledge fairly easily. Skull queen usually does not see too much traffic and is a good alternate to the south face. Regular route on half dome is another good option. I did several walls before I ever used a protaledge. Save your money for now. Do a few walls and get you climbing systems down cold. Worry about a ledge later. That being said, you will still need solid bombproof storm gear. Who cares if the NPS slaps a fine on you (yes it has happend) for not having the proper equipment if your dead.
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rbw1966 said:
I have no problem paying for what I use but as long as I am also paying for what Weyerhauser, the American Beef Council, Exxon, et al, use then I will not pay extra fees. This is in fact what its all about: paying EXTRA fees for using land that has been set aside for public use. Resource industries are subsidized with our tax dollars.
Maybe if we became loggers, ranchers, and mineral exploiters the FS would pay (or at least subsadize) us to be on public lands. Alass we are just citizens and now if we want to go for a walk in the woods we have to pay up?????? Kind of ironic. Maybe in a few years I'll need a permit to walk along the sidewalk in front of my house.
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I think I know what you are talking about. Its a large island near the mouth of the Deschutes? Unfortunately I don't have a boat that will get us there. I do know of a few other places that may be worth checking out. I don't remember the name of the town but it is on the Washington side very close to the island. There is a good looking chunk of rock on the west end of town. You can see it from 84. I have a friend who said he has climbed there. He said he did several good TR's in the 5.10 range. Another spot is near the town of Lyle West of The Dalles on the Washington side. A couple miles east of town the road goes through a tunnel. 100 yards west of the tunnel are a couple of short but fun cracks with some pocketed face climbs between. To the west of Lyle a few miles is another crag. There is a pond on the north side of the road and the crag is on the west end of the pond. There are a half dozen or so climbs most with bolts at the top. There is the place just east of Hood River that you can see from the freeway. I have not been there but I hear it is kind of scary. Nick Dodge also talks about a place just East of The Dalles. Acropolis Needles or something like that. I think it is just some crumbly towers but I'm not sure. Finally there is always Horse Thief Butte, I'm sure you know about that. I'm sure there are more places out there if you look hard enough.
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I'm thinking about heading to goat rocks for the weekend. Never having been there I'd like some recomendations of places to go and mountains to see. From what I know of the place it is probably not worth taking a rope or rack. I'm also assuming that there will be little (if any) snow in the area.
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My condonances to the lady's family and friends
I was in the bugaboos a few years back and saw a team that was hit by lightning on top of the howsers. Created some nasty burns. They said they where both paralized for a while. They could smell their own burnt hair and flesh. Once they where able to move again they beat cleats down leaving everything (wall rack and bags) on the summit. It is definetly not something to take lightly.
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Galens crack in T-meadows. It is a 30 foot top rope OW crack that has shut me down too many times. Maybe next time . . . . .
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Sounds like your both splitting hairs over a couple feet of rope. There are advantages and disadvantages in both systems. There are times when one way is beter than the ther but 99% of the time it doesn't matter all that much. If the belay is bomer just shut up and climb.
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What about hexes. The sides of hexes are tapered for flaring cracks. Look at the top of a hex and you will see what I am talking about. I've only used them like this a couple time but it has worked. Being passive pro, if the crack is too flaired they will not work. I've never used offset cams so I'm not sure how they would compare.
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Try one of these with a long metal blade
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Last week someone said that they heard Madrone Wall was open. I told a buddy of mine and he did some checking. He sent an E-mail to Cam Gilmour, Director of Clackamas County Department of Transportation asking for more information. Sounds like it is still closed. A couple weeks ago there where 4 cars parked there so I am sure people are climbing there. I hope this does not jeopardize our chances of ever getting this place opened up.
Mr. Belt, I am responding to your inquiry regarding Madrone Wall. Since the quarry site was closed to the public in 1997, Clackamas County is periodically contacted by individuals or groups who would like the site to be reopened for rock climbing. You may know that the Hardscrabble Quarry site is off limits to the public and is posted "no-trespassing." At the beginning of this year I was contacted by a group that would like to use Madrone Wall. I am in the process of reviewing this request and plan to take this up with the County Administrator in the near future. If you want to be kept informed of any changes involving public access to the quarry please let me know.
Cam Gilmour
Director
Clackamas County Department of Transportation and Development
9101 SE Sunnybrook Blvd.
Clackamas, Oregon 97015
503-353-4340 Direct
503-353-4272 Fax
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erik said:
W CRACK ON DAFF DOME IS A .9
I think your right. I remember something like one 5.9 move at the first (and only?) bolt right off the deck. I didn't have the book when I wrote my suggestions and I have not been there in about 4 years so I may have made more mistakes. Damn I miss that place!!!!!
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I've spent quite a bit of time up there and there is a TON to do. To begin with I would recomend getting on a longer classic early in the morning before the hords arrive and pick some of the shorter, less travled routes for later in the day. Here are a few classics I would recommend:
Cathedral peak (5.6), Very crowded but very good. Once done with cathedral check out echo peaks or eicorn pinical.
Regular route on Fairview (5.9), one of the 50 crowded classics. Get on this one early. When your done try Inverted Starecase (5.10B).
West Crack (5.8) on daff dome is another worthy classsic. Then try cresent arch(5.9), fingertips(5.10A), great circle(5.10A) or some of the sport climbs on the east side of daff.
South Crack (5.8) on Stately Pleasure Dome is another must do. Then jump on Great White Book (5.6) if you have a cam bigger than a #4 camolot or don't mind soloing a pitch. West country (5.7) Hermaphrodite Flake (5.4) and cross the road and head to tenia beach on the east end of the lake for a dip.
Tenia Peak (5.7ish) is also well worth doing. If you are ambitious head over to Mathes Crest (5.6) to make a long day with a lot of climbing.
Other things to check out are the hot springs in Mamoth. Hike down to the Grand Canyon of the Tulomnue. North or West ridge of Conness.
Finally, take it easy the first couple of days. You will be at over 8000 feet. Save your more ambitious days/climbs for later in your trip when you are acclimatized. Feel free to PM me if you wanted any specific info.
Labor day TR: 0 climbs, 1 fiance
in Climber's Board
Posted
So there is some pain and suffering involved but in the end very rewarding?