MATT_B
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Posts posted by MATT_B
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If possible pick a spot that will get early morning sun. There is nothing like packing up, freezing your ass off in the shade when you don't have too. You probably will not have much choice as to where you end up for the night but if you do it is something to think about.
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Harlin Quarry just west of Corvallis. Drilled pockets, loose dirty rock and the locals use it as a shooting range. Pillars of Hercules could rank up there too. It is right next to the freeway and railroad tracks. loose rock, moss and minimal pro.
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It is kind of like comparing James Bond and McGiver. One has class the other is just kind of silly.
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Anyone got a guide for this place? I'd like to head down there and see what this is all about. The one time I climbed at flagstone there where only a dozen or so routes. I don't remember it being big enough for much more than a pitch and a half but my memory is a bit hazy. I would love to see how it has changed.
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bunglehead said:
I'm pretty damn sure I remember reading that they're in sweet home? Any takers?
Take a drive up to Green Peter Resivour just outside of sweet home. Between Foster and Green Peter keep an eye open on the left side of the road. You may see something off in the trees . . . When you get to the dam look for a road cut with little shiny things in it (bring a helmet and some good karma) Past the green peter there are some other places to climb but I don't remeber where. I don't remember finding anything all that good anywhere in the area but it is always fun to explore.
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One other nice feature of Harlin is how the locals have used the bolts for target practice.
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Next week I am off for a trip down the Middle fork of the Salmon river in Idaho. I am thinking about taking a rack with and doing some climbing while we are on the river. Anyone have knowlege of the rock in this area? I know it is granite but not much else. One river description had this to say about the lower canyon:
"As you proceed downstream from Waterfall Creek you are floating through the exposed granite cliffs of the Idaho batholith, the nation's largest monolith of granite. The scenery will remind you of Yosemite Valley. Your neck will be sore from looking up at the soaring cliffs stabbing into the cobalt sky."
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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About 8 years ago I was able to drive to within a mile or so of some of the formations. I was high on a ridge. I think on the north west side of the wilderness area on some old logging road. I heard the FS was going to close and/or not maintain some of these roads so you may be SOL. Just a thought. As for Books, the Clackamas County Library used to have a copy of one of the dodge books. Check it out and photo copy away. I would have to say it is not a fun place, there is no adventrue climbing, don't go
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I just got the same thing:
Boss: Um, how easy would it be to postpone your vacation?
Me: Well, with a permit for a specific date and money already payed for raft rentals, it aint happening.
Boss: Ok, if the client wants to F--- with the deadline, they can figure out how to make it work. Have a nice trip.
Good thing I have a cool boss. It would suck to have to look for a new job right now.
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Alasdair said:
The fuck wad who put it on the car neglegted to fill out how much the fucking thing would cost.
Maybe they want you to send in a blank check?
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Cams, nuts, hexes, bla, bla, bla . . . Who cares what you learn to use first. Just make sure you learn to use them all.
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I was on an easy slabby crack, climbing very quickly. Fingers slipped out and I stood up just out of balance with the crack just inches out of reach. It felt like it was all in show motion as I fell backwards, head first, back on the wall. I only slid 25 feet or so on my back before stopping with my head about a foot above a ledge. I almost didn't place that last cam that cought me. If I hadn't things would have been very bad.
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lummox said:
the one armed guy is fucking weak. a 200 lb boulder aint shit.
Maybe the guy was pinned face down and couldn't get any leverage on the boulder or something like that. I would bet moving a 200 lb boulder with one hand would be a lot more diffucult than you may think. Cutting off your own arm? I couldn't even imagin what must have been going through his mind.
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If you go for it in June I would suggest you pick an evening with a full moon (or close to it) and leave timberline between 10:00pm and midnight depending on how fast or slow you plan on moving. Try to hit the summit just before the sun comes up. When I have done this there are usually very few people on the summit, you get to watch the sun rise and I typically don't run into the masses until I am on the hogs back. This is assuming you are planning on doing the south side.
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"You tie in with a figure eight, like this" It was a beaner cliped to one end of a figure eight (belay device, not a knot) with some kind of mystry knot tyed into the other end. It would have been funny but the guy was not kidding.
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On a road trip we where driving throught Golden CO on our way to Ft. Collins. We where on a schedule but had time to swing into garden of the gods to check it out. We spotted a realy cool looking formation that we wanted to climb. I think it was called montazuma tower or something like that. After a quick investigation we found out that there was an easy bolted route up the thing. The only problem were the BIG BLACK CLOUDS roling in. We only had about 20 minutes so it was now or never. My climbing pack was burried in the trunk and we didn't have enough time to dig. I ended up just going for it in convers with 1'' webbing around my waist for a hanress. We where inspired by the approaching lightening to move fast. About 20 minutes later we jump in the car with all of our gear still on just as the sky lets loose.
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specialed said:
Don't think he's gunna start much of a wildfire in the desertt.
Actually he could. I spent the better part of a summer working there and saw more than one fire started by ligntning. There was one that went up just outside of Yucca Valley. I think it was in black rock canyon. Anyway the whole hill just outside of town was lit up at night. There where some homes that where threatened. Lots of smoke. The usual wild fire stuff. Just because there are no trees doesn't mean it will not burn.
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I bet there is some intresting stuff in the Columbia River Gorge. Oneatta gorge is short but very cool. It is the closest thing to a slot canyon that I have seen in this neck of the woods
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It all depends on who is taking the next lead. If you are swinging leads (meaning that your partner gets the next lead) you will want to stack the rope in such a way that it will feed smoothly with no snags from the top. If you are going to lead the next pitch you have to stack the rope in such a way that it will feed smoothly from the bottom. I think this is what Lambone was talking about with the small coils on the bottom and the larger ones on top (if I am reading this correctly). The other option is to re-stack the rope at the top of every pitch. The best thing to do is climb lots and you will figure it out. Good comment about the neck being a bad idea. I don't recommend letting it hang ether. It can get cought in things, nock things off, get blown all over the place, get in the way of parties below and if it is just hanging out in space you will ware your self out belaying with the weight of the rope.
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iain said:
I know my vision gator will be back in style at some point
My girlfriend got me a gift cerficate for a skatboard for my birthday. I went into the shop to get my new board and like any good salesmen the 16 year old kid behind the counter asked me what I wanted. I told him I used to ride (among others) a vision gator. He said "damn your old school" Not sure if that was good or not but he hooked me up with a new ride. My question is where were all of these new skate parks when I was a kid?
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I have seen slides come off the south west side of crater rock. I'm sure other aspects of that rock have let loose too. I have also heard that the slope on the east side of illumination saddle can get wind loaded and slide. Once approaching illumination rock from the SE I heard the big whomp and a crack formed about 30 feet above me. Scary Scary Scary!!!!! Nothing slid thank god.
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scott said:
This post is just what i needed today.
In places where you don't have to bring a shit tube, I carry a paper supermarket sack with handles. The handles are key-- keeps your hands out of the way while you let it rip.
Thank you all for this post.
After my leaning tow trip I cam up with the idea of a 2L water bottle, knife and duct tape. All thing they one would likely have on a wall in a day type climb. Empty (drink) the water, cut the top off, poop, liberly tape back together and put back in bags. Just hope it stays together. It is just a theory at this point but if the need ever arises I will likely give it a shot.
OK, one more poo story: We are racked up, tight shoes are on and ready to go. My buddy (same guy that was on LT) decides he better go before we start up. He wanders off to do his thing and I'm left at the base to wait. Being a little impatient I start throwing pee sized rocks his way. I can see his head poaking up from behind some rocks and he doesn't move. I throw a few more and no reaction. I grab a hand full and lob them his way. With that he jumps up, shorts around the ankels and takes cover behind a big tree with his ass haning out. I'm laughing so hard I almost piss my pants. Apparnetly he thought the rocks where coming off the wall and he was about to die. I'm cracking up just thinking about it.
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A few years ago I was cleaning the second pitch of the west face of leaning tower. I'm about 30 feet from the anchor when my buddy informs me that he has to go and could not hold it. We where doing the route in a day so we had no poop tube. I don't think I have ever moved so fast in my life. I was about 10 feet below and fortunetly away from the "drop zone" when he let it fly. There are some things I hope I never see again and that was one of them. When I got the the anchors I sacraficed half the gauze pads form my first aid kit so he could clean himself up then he is off on the next pitch. I'm sitting at the anchors thinking how bad this could get if he gets hit by the runs again. I'm quicky distracted by my own strange feeling down south. Soon I too am letting the shit fly. If you are not familiar with the leaning tower it is very overhanging. To get to the first pitch you travers/walk along a ledge that puts you 700 feet or so off the deck to start with. When I let loose it must have gone 900 feet straight down not even touching the wall. Fortunetly it was very early in the morning and no one was below. I felt bad for just letting it fly but there was nothing else we could do. Thank god that was the last of it. The rest of the climb was crap free but still an (sucessful) epic. Note to self: food can go bad quite quickly if left in the bear box for too long.
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COL._Von_Spanker said:
I can't find any info on the web. The only thing about A5 on the TNF site is the A5 line of bouldering wear, including bouldering tips. What the fuck is up with that. I'm no bigwaller by any stretch of the imagination, but I know enough to see the irony in a line of bouldering clothes named A5. The FAQ section on the site even explains how A5 stands for the hardest aid climbing grade.
Does anyone know if the fly on the A5 double ledge is supposed to come with a pole?
Mine came with a pole (standard fly) but that was about 5 years ago just after TNF bought out A5. No idea if they still do.
Drive-by Choss Fest
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Yes, yes! If I remember correctly it is called Crest Jewel, WI3, 2 or 3 pitches. I saw it in shape the first time I went ice climbing. That was about 10 years ago so we should be due. Maybe this winter
About the only truely good climbing in the gourge is on ice. There are plenty of other "good" adventure climbs too. Anyone have any other favorites? I've tryed Pillers of Herculies and the rabbit ears. Both seem somewhat typical. Loose rock, moss, rusty pins and stinging nettels. Everything you would need for a good adventure.