MATT_B
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Posts posted by MATT_B
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Here is some info that could be helpful.
http://gorp.com/gorp/gear/features/bivy_test11.htm
I have used three of these. The REI Cyclops sucked. The seam tape came off the coated nylon floor. It all came off at once and I got SOAKED! REI did give me my money back though. I barrowed a North Face for a while. Worked well enough but I never got into any real weather. Damn spendy though. I ended up buying the Wild Things bag. Simple design and works well. The tye in loop has to be generously seam sealed. If you are exposed in bad weather it is better if you use the sack upside down so the zipper is on the bottom not the top. I spent three days in the rain with it (no tent or tarp) and my down bag was still fairly dry.
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Dustin
Your runner choice should be dictated by the kind of climbing you do. If you are doing a lot of routes that wander all over the place and rope drag is always a big issue, go for lots of long runners. If you are doing a lot of routes that are straight as an arrow don't worry too much about long runners. Personally I hate double length runners. More often than not they are in my way. As far as how to carry them, experiment. I'm sure you will get a ton of opinions. Try them all and see what works best for you. I like to have all my gear on my harness when free climbing but I have friends that never use the gear loops on their hanresses. It all comes down to what works for you.
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Billygoat said:
Keg of beer! would roll/slide nicely and keep one well hydrated
I think Billygoat is onto something here.
As for the static rope thing. If you know you are going to TR a ton at a specific crag you can buy a static line cut to the length needed for that crag. My brother once got a short static rope specifically for TR'n at the collums in Eugene. Nice and compact and you don't have 50 extra feet laying around for some gumby to step on.
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How do you wear out a chalk bag? You must be digging deep. If you are crafty you can try to make one. It's not too hard. If not try
http://www.fishproducts.com/catalog/productlinefs.html
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Go light! Why haul at all? What do all do you need? Water, some food, some storm gear, light jacket, hat, head lamp, batteries, duct tape, first aid kit, and a few other misc. things. Forget the sleeping bag, boom box, 6 changes of underware and all the heavy crap you would take on a longer route in the valley. It is only one night out. By the time you hit the slabby stuff you will have less than half the food and water you started with and your bag will be very light. Although this is assuming a summer climb. If you are jumping on it as soon as the road clears you may want to try a little different approach. If you do toss the bag you still have to go retreave it. If it is still there when you get down it may not be in one piece and I don't even want to think about clobbering someone. I'll pass on the air mail.
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I too have been thinking about soloing this. Can I expect to see much traffic on a July or August weekend? Does it go clean? Can I link any pitches with a 60m rope? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Matt
I've got and old A5 double. I would recommend getting a double ledge unless you plan on doing a lot of soloing or have wall partners that already have ledges. The one big drawback to a double is the room. I'm 6' tall and my feet will hang off the end if I stretch out. You may feel like a sardine when sleeping but if it is only for a few days the suffering will be minor. With a little practice set up is not too bad. I have never needed to deploy the fly on a wall but always set it up with the ledge. If you don't and it rains at night you will be hating life! Sex on the ledge? If this ledge is rocken don't . . . . Ok I admit it my ledge doesn't rock.
My poor ledge is sitting in the basement with 3 years dust on it. The truely sad thing is my buddies ledge is sitting next to mine with about 5 years of dust. Hopefully I will have a "coming out of retirement party" some time soon. Paint what you want just don't waterproof the floor or your ledge could become a bath tub. Routes you can us a ledge on in Washington? Take your pick but I don't think you realy "need" one on much if anything in washington. My take is if the route is relitively short or has decent natural ledges leave the portaledge at home. It will be 10+ pounds less to haul and down. Yosemite in September could be fun. Maybe if I actually do some climbing this spring. -
If you look at a route and the thought of going up makes you want to vomit that is "sick". If you go up anyway, that is something else.
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I think I am lacking in my cyber navigation skills. I can't find this in EVENTS. Where is it?
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- You can make a four coarse meal out of free
condiments
- You have spent the night in the John Muir Hilton
- You have couch surfed most states
- You have never paid to get into a national park
- You can live off of less than $10 a week
- You think the only place for a new years eve
party is on top of Intersection Rock
- You think your parents fon# is 1-800-COLLECT
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I am going to head up to the olympic peninsula in a couple of weekd with my girlfriend. Never having spent any time there I would like some suggestions on where to camp, what to see, good EASY climbs, etc. What are the chances that I will actually have good weather? Thanx for the help.
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I once took two full time shit jobs. I worked a day shift and a night shift for about 4 months. You will have no time or energy to spend any money so it is a good savings plan. It is good training (no sleep and lots of suffering). I still had most weekends off. and the best part was after four months I could tell both my bosses where to stick it and go climb for 6 months and still have a little money left over to go back to school.
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Some other good smith tuft cracks are Pack animal direct 10b, Calamity Jam 10c, Infinity direct 10a and I think one or two more cracks if I remember correctly. Karati crack is just around the corner. They are all right next to each other and didn't get much traffic when I did them. I have not been in that area in a while but I have heard that some one put a bunch of sport routes up between the cracks so you may find the usual smith cluster f* there too.
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Try Zebra Zion at smith. There is only one small section of 10a and the last pitch (5.8?) is one of the best around!
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Helmet good
Drain Bamage bad
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About 5 years ago I found a register on top of Steins Pillar in an old coffee can. The earliest ones dated back to the 60's and had the names of a couple of valley players from the golden era.
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I found almost anything in J-tree with a "+" behind the rateding to be a sandbag.
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A guy walks into the gym I'm working at and checks out a harness. He wanders off and gets ready to climb. We watch as he strugels to put the harness on . . . backwards. Once he gets the thing on he wanders over to the rope but can't figure out how to tie in. Before he can get tied in and off the ground I walk over and ask if he needed a hand. He said he has done this plenty of times before and there must be something wrong with his harness. So I point to the back of his harness and say "see this loop back here that says 'tie in here' it should be in the front."
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These came from international tuorests visiting Tuolumne Meadows:
German guy asks "where are the bears" with a heavy accent. It sounds "like where are the beers"
German guy to his wife pointing at Lembert dome "there is Elcap"
A couple wander into the SAR site in the campground and help them selves to some of the firewood. We inform them it is not free for the taking. They replay "but we are french"
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I did Bunnyface out at smith in 9 hours 47 minutes 53 seconds from end of line to summit.
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Plexus
Lambone hit the nail on the head. When I have climibed cathedral during the day I have always experienced crouds, even mid week. Get an EARLY start if you are taking a partner. If you are planning a solo, it is usually easy to pass. There are a bunch of other climbs in the area that you can do in the same day, Unicorn, Cockscomb, the 9 Echo peaks, etc. Take your pick. In keeping with the theme of this thread another coolest day would be a link up of Tenia Peak and Mathers crest in a day. A TON of pitches in a day in an increadable setting and didn't see a sole until the hike out from cathedral lake.
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SE face of Cathedral Peak in T-meadows. I went up solo on a moon lit night. watched a metior shower on the summit. Very cool!
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I think it is a washington state park thing. I will give my friend a call and see what I can find out.
Funniest/Strangest ever
in Climber's Board
Posted
I was out backpacking getting ready for dinner. I stuck a brick of top ramen into a pot of cold water and it all turned blue. Didn't exactly expect that to happen. Once we boiled it the color went back to normal and we ate it anyway. Turns out that the iodine in the water purification tablits reacted with the starch in the ramen.