KeithKSchultz

Going to Denali in May and need a down coat. I have checked all the retail shops and sites and will use one as a last resort but would rather pay less and give the money to a climber. KeithCarolyn@msn.com

First, read the books you can find. Then go do some aid climbing with clean gear. Just pick a crack that looks like it goes all the way to an anchor and start pluggin gear. Don't worry about style or grace. Put in a zillion pieces. If you think you are going to run out, place four or five pieces, weight them equally, and rap off and clean what's below you. Prussic or jumar back up and keep going. I have been climbing since the seventies and have helped a lot of people get started leading. IT IS THE MOST DANGEROUS TIME OF YOUR CLIMBING CARREER. Devote at least a few climbing days to aiding with a clean rack. Do a variety of routes. Wear old shoes, knee pads, and a helmet. You will want a fifi hook or at least a daisy chain. If you can find someone patient enough to belay, you are in fat city. If not, set up a top rope, or a fixed line and tie figure 8s as you climb and clip into them. Have 2 locking biners so you are clipped into one figure eight in the fixed line at all times. With a fixed line you can rap and prussic at will.After you have gotten bored with aiding and are ready to put your ass on the line, do something very easy so you don't have to worry about falling. Get used to the way leading flows. Establish a system you use at almost every placement--- establish a good stance where you can get a piece in, remove the piece from your rack, place it, test it, clip a runner or quik-draw to it, pull your rope up, clip in, test the rope running, screw up your courage and move to the next stance............... Very few really ballsy climbers live to a ripe old age. At least not without injuries. Statistics catch up eventually. Be careful. Progress slowly. Focus on having fun, not on what other climbers might think about your style or abilities.

I am looking for Rambos. Give me a call. (425)702-9882 Keith

I am looking for a down coat too. If Dan doesn't want the FF one up from a Helios send me an email. keith.schultz@premera.com Keith

I am interested in some or all of your listed gear. Call me in Redmond 425 702-9882 hm Keith

I'll buy em if they are big enough for my 11.5 Koflacks. Call me at home 425 702-9882 or email me at KeithCarolyn@msn.com and keith.schultz@premera.com

I am looking for someone who has done the West Rib. My major concern is the avalanche danger on the NE fork of the Kahiltna. If you have been up there I would appreciate hearing from you. So far I am planning on going up there May 17. Keith keith.schultz@premera.com

To lose oneself in the 'here and now' is my goal. My best moments in climbing are when I make a move or series of moves that come not as a thought but only as action. The loss of self as the rock projects me upon its canvass is what keeps me coming back. My favorite memmories are from the days I was doing 1st ascents in the Bitterroots. It seems like everything else is just a reminder. It wasn't about the grades or the guide books. I go back now and find routes I did and then forgot. In a little more time I will go back and do them as first ascents again. Eventually, I will just keep climbing.

After 30 years of climbing I realized that what was holding me back was climbing.