fern
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Posts posted by fern
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snowshoes are probably cool, and much less weight.
I was just concerned maybe you were thinking of post-holing your way around
![[hell no]](graemlins/hellno3d.gif)
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you use weird units. how much is 0.9 cups in oz or mL?
I don't think you will run out with 3 gallons. Could maybe get by with less if you are efficient with a stove. Use a windscreen and a heat-xchanger.
I have not done an expedition to such an altitude. My trips have shown that 90mL/person/day works if running water is available, 120mL/person/day covers melting (wettish spring) snow for all water needs. Add on whatever safety margin you like, if you have too much at the end light a big fire
Here's a fun story about glaciers and flammables. A certain glacier researcher found he had a great deal of extra propane at the end of a field season, conveniently there was a small surface stream draining into a moulin nearby, hmm, propane is heavier than air ... so they emptied the propane tank into the moulin, then hiked up along the stream a 'safe' distance, poured a leetle bit of gasoline into the stream and lit it, then plugged their ears and waited ..... WHABOOOM! big fiery geyser coming out of the glacier
![[laf]](graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif)
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you planning to bring skis Ray?
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how many days total K? I probably can't spare the time but I can torture myself for a few weeks dreaming that I _might_ be able to ... plus I am not an 'expert'
If you are going where you said before (why so secret?) I think I can get you some 1:20000 maps for free, and let me know if you need a car shuttle or anything.
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there was a cosmic ray bomb explosionblow ups happenkeep your eyes peeled applehead we're entering a zoneof orbitless planetary kamikaze meteorsthat tend to move with frightening speedand unexpectednessone collisionand you will beapplesauce
cadillacs are omnivoresand dinosaurs are herbivoresand I am an interstellar robot destroyer.I tend to move with frightening speedand unexpectednessone collisionand you will beapplesauce
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quote:Originally posted by Dru:V i didnt realize that was you.
heh, dru rides the small bus. I knew this.
nice to meet you people. maybe next time we'll even go climb something together.
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the maltodextrin story I got was that because it is a polysaccharide the extra step of chopping off the glucoses means absorption and rate of increase of blood sugar is slower than if you consume just glucose or fructose straight-up. This translates to a longer time before bonking, so if you can get a goo shot every 45min or so your blood sugar should be more even than if you are knocking back raspberry jam instead.
my 'source' also figures that those secret magic ingredient trace minerals and junk that the xtreem-baby-food companies tout as the key to the performance of their snake oils are actually just by-products of the corn-starch-to-maltodextrin synthesis process. So if you make your own out of maltodextrin from the homebrew shop you will be picking up some of those mini ingredients anyways.
perhaps this is all BS though, I am no xtreem x-spurt.
I have also heard from a few athletic type people (martial arts) that consuming refined sugar causes them joint pain
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quote:Originally posted by joekania:<snip> Now the weight of the amassing snowpack, on the other hand...
... will do what exactly?? hey, come on, don't leave me hanging...
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quote:Originally posted by Dru:Best easy (a2/a2+) long route you are guaranteed nailing on is Edge of Pan. Long approach so no crowds.
Bladerunner, overhanging A2 nailing, shorter with less objective danger than Pan Wall, same approach (Kashmir Wall), stays dry in wet weather.
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quote:Originally posted by freeclimb9:I've been blah blah climbing game for twenty years, and have rarely blah blah blah, of gear failures. Do have an illustrative example of a webbing failure? diddle diddle blah snip
Since you ask for an example, here is one for you to pick apart and discount as irrelevant:
Ben DeMenech took a factor >>1 fall on Midnight Watch when the webbing on an old style (U cable) junior Camalot sliced through on the cable where the protective plastic sleeve had broken. He did not die nor was seriously injured in the fall. You did not read about this adventure? (see below).
quote:Originally posted by freeclimb9:The AAC keeps records of this type of shit. Become informed.
Records are only kept when people make reports. People usually only make reports when someone dies or is seriously injured (see above). Maybe ANAM gives no examples of accident resulting from girth hitching to cable, but taking this thread as an example, most of us know better than to use that method in a life-dependent situation. I am not surprised that there are no reports of death due to a technique that basically no-one practices anyways. However Ivan's buddy quite obviously doesn't have the
![[Wazzup]](graemlins/wazzup.gif)
to know what constitutes a life-dependent situation or not, so perhaps he will die and next year we can read all about him in ANAM over a few and ![[big Drink]](graemlins/bigdrink.gif)
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quote:Originally posted by pope:Seems I once read that closed-cell foam is always warmer since what really counts is "dead air", not thickness. Open-cell inflatables (like the Therma-Rest) supposedly allow for little internal air currents which conduct heat away from you. It's kind of like a double-pane storm window. One might think that a bigger gap between panes would provide more insulation, but in reality, the warmth of the inner pane causes adjacent air (or some kind of gas) between the panes to rise, while the cool outer pane cools the adjacent air, causing it to fall. When the gap between panes is thick enough, a current sets up in which air on the warm side of the gap rises to the top and then shifts to the cold side and falls into the cold side of the gap (replacing the cold air that falls down). The falling cold-side air eventually shifts to the warm side to replace the rising warm air. Of course, this circulation takes warmth away from the inner pane and transfers it to the exterior of the home. Storm windows are actually designed with a very narrow gap between panes to discourage these little "heat-pump" currents.
A thermarest is nothing like a storm window. When you are lying on a thermarest the warm side (you) is on top, the cold side (snow) is on the bottom. Warm air rises, so the dead air inside thermarest that you warm up stays at the top, the cold air stays at the bottom and there is no density driven heat pump. The only convection you might get is if you shift around a lot and mix up the air inside, but it's still always going to be warmer than ambient.
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"Far, Far the Mountain Peak" John Masters, one of those epic 'waning years of the British Empire' The Far Pavilions style novels.
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that photo doesn't do justice to Andy's ubiquitous red adidas pants.
I met a guy hiking to Garibaldi Lake once, one snowshoe was the side of a milkcrate, the other was a window mosquito screen.
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quote:Originally posted by Dru:that cause trad climbers got bigger racks
yeah, I got lots of nuts and cams too.
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I responded to a fatal accident last year. I wasn't the first on scene so when I arrived CPR was already in full swing. But when it became apparent that things were really serious I was asked to go speak to the victim's partner who was waiting nearby ... and at that moment I would have gladly traded places with anyone who was hand's on to the revival efforts.
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a gri-gri isn't a panacea for shitty belaying skills ... maybe if you take the time to help her develop better rope control you won't be limited to easy sport climbs and short top ropes? It's not just your safety at stake, it's her's also.
in any case good luck. I have always found that a good place to find info about the climbs available in areas is the guidebook for that area.
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if you and I go on a trip and you forget your shovel then you get to carry mine (:
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In the McNamara Yosemite Supertopo guidebook there's a chart of cam sizes showing the overlap between the major brands. also there's this:http://www.stanford.edu/~agcooper/ActiveProSizeChart.htmland this:http://home.datacomm.ch/leonhard.pang/climbing/slcd.html
and I think a few years ago in R&I there was a Steph Davis article about crack climbing technique that cross-refs crack size (thin fingers, hand, fist etc.) to cam sizes.
also I think (but could be wrong) that a #3 Friend is 3 inches across unretracted, and a #3 Camalot is 3 inches across when halfway retracted, and that this is a fairly general rule for those two brands.
[ 02-25-2002: Message edited by: fern ]
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the roof just below The Tree will do the chinese water torture down the back of your neck for most of the second pitch. The vegetation up there soaks up a lot of water too, so it takes a few dry days before the dripping stops. It's still climbable, but no way would you stay dry. Also you get no sun, so it can be pretty chilly. Watch out for rock and ice fall in that area.
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quote:Originally posted by pope:I'm surpised that nobody ever suggests such activities for rest days, but it is a well-known fact that sorting gear in El Cap Meadows is a sure-way to meet girls. Some of them want to become intimate (yawn), but some of them can get you free showers and a pic-nic lunch!
A girl sorting gear will quickly attract a group of guys, however it is immediately obvious that they cannot get her free showers.
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care to elaborate on WHICH Liquidation World? there are several
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hmm ... bilious green helmet, red red jacket ... waitaminnit, that's YOU on the bolt ladder trickster.
did you get dan's addy? perrakis at u.washington.edu
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My experience with Atlas snowshoes lead me to the conclusion that they are complete crap. Don't expect to get more than a dozen days of moderate-to-heavy use out of them before rivets start popping and straps break. This conclusion is based on the failure of several pairs, not just one.
There are a few things I don't like about the MSRs but they are very durable and pretty cheap. There are other rigid plastic brands out there too for similar $$ to the MSR. A friend has a pair that you can lock the heels down which is nice for steep deep snow, I think the brand is 'TSL' or somthing.
If you want something a little more sporty, MEC is selling 120cm twin tip mini skis for $99CDN
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quote:Originally posted by David Parker:There are a few things I don't like about the "If you want something a little more sporty, MEC is selling 120cm twin tip mini skis for $99CDN"How would these skis work with silveretta bindings and either plastic or leather ice climbing boots?For example, I have done the approach to Chair Peak 2twice, once with snoeshoes and once with tele skis. I much prefered coming out on skis but I don't like having to carry and switch boots.<snip>
I am perplexed about what there is to like or not like about that quote, I mean it had a smily and everything ... (hmm hmm, the internal struggle, shall I be facetious or helpful ... la la la
) ... I think the preferred way of making them 'work' is to mount the bindings on the ski, insert the boot into the binding, and point 'em downhill. Whether or not this would 'work' for _you_ David is beyond my ken, as I know nothing of your abilities or joie-de-vivre. I don't even know if it would 'work' for me, but it looks like hella fun. I have seen it done by other people, they looked cheerful. 
making your own quickdraws?
in Newbies
Posted
My solution: cloth hockey tape. Tape around cord BEFORE you cut it. Cut through the tape. Apply lighter to cut ends and let the tape catch on fire, wave it around for a coupla seconds to even out the melting on the cord, blow it out, peel off the charred tape, TA-DA! better job than even the store can do with the hot-knife.