Jump to content

fern

Members
  • Posts

    2537
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by fern

  1. quote:

    Originally posted by slothrop:

    Hey Dru, how come the Russian guy at Climb On in Squamish hates your beloved Tri-cams? I went in there a while ago wanting to get one to play around with, but he went off on a tirade about how much they suck.

    He's not Russian he's Czech and he hates normal cams too, he only likes nuts.

  2. I say if some dood has found a way to get yuppies to pay him thousands and thousands of dollars to babysit them in the beautiful mountain environment while they all drink [big Drink] and eat yummy food [chubit] and then go and do a fun climb together, well Right On Buddy!! Score!!

  3. quote:

    Originally posted by Dru:

    Squamish (in more or less ascending order):

    Diamonds and Spades aka Unnamed 4th class or 5.2

    nothing to brag about but I was able to free-solo this climb after 5 years of intensive preparation and training [Razz]

  4. isn't that grizzled old guy on the portaledge Hans Florine or something?

     

    last year on the BD site you could fill out a questionnaire and they CLAIMED they would send you free stickers. I spent many precious moments deciding whether I felt oval carabiners are 5:Extremely Useful, 4: Moderately Useful, 3:Useful, 4:Not Useful, 5:Pointless and Irrelevant. Did I receive a sticker pack in return for my honest and well considered thoughts? ... No I did not. icon13.gif

  5. quote:

    Originally posted by iain:

    Is this a known issue, so that I can tell Mtn Shop that I'm not screwing up the skins myself?


    do a google search through the rec.skiing.backcountry archives and you'll find a bunch of posts about hinky Ascension glue. Print them all out and take them to the shop when you return your skins. It worked for me.

  6. Iridium phone = paperweight

     

    that network is dead, I think they started dropping the satellites out of orbit even. Sound quality wasn't so great and you could only send 150 character e-mails or something. Had a built-in GPS which was kind of neat.

     

    The Globalstar phones are still OK. I think CHF (maybe ACC??) now has one for Canadian expeditions to borrow for remote trips ... someone else probably knows more than me about it.

     

    Andy is good at renting out useless radios. A sat phone is much more reliable but then you miss out on the 8pm radio chat. People all over the Yukon tune in to hear all the expeditions and field camps call in with weather reports or whatever.

  7. whipper dude was in a party of 3 a pitch or so behind Katja and Aaron. I didn't see him fall but I heard him screaming loud and jingle-jangling and saw his belayer reeling in slack like mad. The waves pitch is the one with 1 bolt through some polished pockety slabs up and left to the steep corner, followed by a hand traverse left to a tree. I think buddy fell just below the corner and ended up almost back at the belay.

     

    I guess the people we saw were different, the tape-name was "Dan" anyways. Plus we were a party of 3 and I am not a guy, so we aren't the people you saw either ... whew, close call [Wink] It's fun to go climbing and know most everybody else on the Apron at the same time.

     

    Katja probably doesn't like wet rock 'cause she doesn't want to fall on the scary used rope she bought at the MEC gear swap ... tee hee.

  8. Dru, Yanik and I topped out from Sparrow just ahead of Katja (the German girl). We met some guys who didn't look very canadian on Broadway ... perhaps that was you? Do you have a name written on a piece of tape on your helmet?

     

    I want to know who was the guy in the yellow helmet _below_ Katja who took a huge slab-slapping whipper on the waves pitch ... wha' happened buddy? [Eek!]

  9. quote:

    Originally posted by sk:

    That is lame. I totaly agree. However, being a busness owner it does help when people who enjoy our service or product pass along the word. <snip>

    I enjoyed no service from this company, I was climbing unguided. I will pass along no good word, I threw their sticker away and I'm not going to say their name.

    [Razz]

  10. when I returned to my boots after climbing Pigeon Spire W.R. I found them stuffed with stickers for a guiding business website ... lame. what makes you think I want to advertise your guiding business or carry your sticker garbage out ??? [Mad]

     

    funny climbing stickers distract border guards..."Think Less Climb More"... huh huh. Then they don't find the 'apples' you're hiding.

  11. quote:

    Originally posted by Dru:
    nobody sells spooled spectra WEBBING do they, just Spectra CORD and pre-sewn spectra webbing.

    The stupid gear store in Canmore (not Valhalla...forget the name) used to sell it for the same price as regular webbing. Same thing the guy at Vertical Reality was selling Gemini for the same price as nylon 5mm.

    quote:

    you know like if someone leaves a new sling and rap ring at a station and i come along i usually grab the new sling and leave an old one behind... or just rap off of 6 manky slings.

    ... or score all the fixed gear and just downclimb.

  12. I said:My trips have shown 120mL/person/day . . .

    quote:

    jhamaker says:
    Way too much. The park reccomends 1pint/person per day (16oz).

    whatever dude, do you know how to convert oz to mL?

    according to conversions 120mL is just under 1/2 cup (4 oz), so if anything I give too little, not surprising since as I stated this is the amount I use for lower elevation warm wet conditions.

  13. quote:

    Originally posted by DOUG LARSON:
    Hi Fern,

    could you give me the reference to this study. We study everything there is to know about cliffs.

    Doug

    "Threats posed by Rock-Climbers to birds nesting o cliffs in the South Okanagan"

    Proceedings of a Conference on the Biology and Management of Species and Habitats at Risk. Kamloops B.C. 15-19 February 1999, Volume 1. L.M. Darling Editor, 2000.

  14. I'd be cautious believing the 'scientific consensus' of the IPCC doesn't contain at least an equal dose of politics as data. The reference list is what should matter, go and read all the original papers rolleyes.gif" border="0 ... or should I say original *.pdf files since we're tryin' to save trees smile.gif" border="0

    Incidentally, I recently saw that Howie Richardson has published a paper on the relationship of climbing activity in the Skaha Bluffs to song-bird populations.

  15. FWIW Squamish Rock Guides is probably the priciest squamish guiding outfit ... Crazy Creek chairs and fancy sunglasses don't come cheap after all cool.gif" border="0 . There are tons of other ACMG guides in Squamish working independently, ask at Valhalla Pure. If you don't care about ACMG certified instruction you might find even more people willing to take even less of your money, not all are sketchy. Ask at Climb On.If you know clearly what skills you would like to learn you'll be in a better position to find the right instructor and you'll be better off designing your own course rather than signing on with the scheduled courses offered by CWMS. (incidentally, Squamish Rock Guides also have alpine climbing instruction)

    I took a mountaineering and snow-camping course with CWMS way back in the day, they were fine but I won't spend any more money with them. I learned rock-climbing stuff for free from cool people I met at the right time. I got a full 9hr day of ice-climbing instruction with 3 friends for about $35 each in the Rockies from one of the top ACMG guides a couple of years back. When I see the CWMS top-roping hordes at Marble Canyon I feel pretty lucky for that deal. CWMS has really been growing in recent years and it seems like class sizes and prices have both been going up. Still cheaper than Yamnuska though shocked.gif" border="0

×
×
  • Create New...