Terminal_Gravity
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Posts posted by Terminal_Gravity
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Erwin PM me you Phone Number & I'll call you.
I come to PDX 2 or 3 times a month.
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Erwin, Are you looking for climbing axes as well? I have a pair of classic Lowe Hummingbirds that I would sell cheap and then buy Lambones Shreiks...what do you say?
On the other hand, if you want Lambones axes I won't argue..their yours, I might just keep what I've got or get new. Let me know.
P.S. Matt you're a dog
[This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 10-23-2001).]
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I did some little nerve damage thing in my neck last week (stupid human tricks) and my arm is 1/2 numb. I felt my knees needed a break from the last two weekends. So, I thought I would take it easy and I went out to do this local 5.8ish 2 pitch climb with this 65 year old Tai Kwan Do instructor friend of mine who has just climbed in gyms a bit. I have never ever seen any newbie so smooth and clear headed on rock 200ft above the deck. He had a bit of technical difficulty on some of the moves, but totally kept it together in his head. We rappeled the route (I belayed his first 50 ft.) and when I said to just lean back, arch his back and keep pressure on his feet, he did. I was amazed and had a good time.
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He was Tenzing Norgay's Son and wrote Touching My Father's Soul ( IMO a very worthwhile read) and was with the IMAX team in '96.
Atleast 4 non-climbers I know have mentioned that they heard (or read) he died climbing but were un-able to site references or details.
I hope that I'm wrong about his death. Maybe I've been the victim of a rumor mill.
[This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 10-23-2001).]
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I have two that I want to sell one of.
First: a very stout Stubai UIAA fiberglass axe
70mm 20+ years old and has seen alot of use but no abuse. It is in fine shape and is truly a very nice Alpine axe, but a bit heavy.
Second:
I also have a fairly light offbrand 65mm with a UIAA rating, Aluminum shaft, steel head.
It has seen almost no use, I bought it for my wife about 5 years ago. She may acctually have used it once. It is like pulling teeth to get her out.
(Atleast she's a tiger in the sack.)
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I do not mean to suggest that I find fault in JK's lack of action. I do think that they are suspect, however. I know how much harder 20,000ft is then 14,000ft. I can't imagine what 26k must feel like after a hard day. so, maybe he did all that could be expected.
I also know what it feels like to try to save somebodys life. I almost died trying, and I failed. I am still living with some of the ramifications of the injuries I sustained trying, but that is nothing compared to the emotional trauma I live with.
I don't feel any ill will for JK for what he did or didn't do on the mountain; I wasn't there. I do take issue with what he wrote and especially with the fact that he never publically recanted his views on Boukereiv.
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[This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 10-23-2001).]
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I also have a alpine axe for sale $20
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quote:Originally posted by lambone:Hey TG,I bet you'd be singin' a different tune if you had a sled! How bout some ice tools, how many points will they dock you!!???
Okay, Lambone. You caught me...you're right I don't have a sled, I don't have a jet ski either. But I have had fun on both. I think that there is a time and a place for every outdoor activity as long as it doesn't have permanent harm in a wilderness area or doesn't preclude the enjoyment of others.
I think that style is a personnel choice. I have only climbed naked once. Free solo of some little 5.3 70 ft piece of shit at J Tree at night; drunk. But I was wearing a head light (lost a point). I think most would agree that if you climb succesfully with less techno stuff the sense of acomplishment is better. But climbing an 11 with a rope and sticky rubber is more of an accomplishment than a 5.3 naked.
I own five ice tools; Two of which are the original Lowe Hummingbirds and even if it means losing a style point for me I think that I will feel more accomplished if I can climb harder ice by buying more modern tools.
[This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 10-23-2001).]
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You guy's should read Chouinard's view on the difference between Style & Ethics. It's in "Voices from the Summit" and im sure has been published elsewhere.
Basically, Style is a personnal choice that does not effect others. Climing naked is the only pure style. Wear shoes, dock a style point. Wear sticky rubber dock an additional point.
Use a snow mobile, dock a thousand.
Ethics enfringe on other climbers.
I have a lot less problem with some yeahhoo wearing heated jackets than I do with people using chalk on wild rock. (Before any feathers get ruffeled; I have no problem with chalk in established areas)
Snowmobiles are another thing entirely. If I had to smell the exaust and listen to the noise in a wilderness area I might just be forced to pull out my lightweight plastic subcompact 9mm...and settle the matter.
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Jon, I don't understand why you closed the thread on Krakaur. Sure there was the typical spray, but less than on most forums that get the interest of more than 75 posts.
I personnally think that it was an interesting thread. I hope that you don't get pissed at this lame attempt to re-open it.
I've read over 10 books that have dealt with 5/10/96 on Everest and am still curious about something. If J Krakaur was so much stronger than all of the other cleints and had to wait around (resting) why did he just let people die instead of helping. Yes, we know its hard, but people died and I find him atleast partially responsible. So to me it doesn't matter if he is a nice guy or a good writer. I think that he made one of the worst mistakes a person can make (in life or the mountains)...he pussed out while people died; and then he blamed others.
[This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 10-22-2001).]
[This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 10-22-2001).]
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Oh Yeah; Any thing on Baffin..........
and to climb Chomulungma without any other parties around and without paying the permit fee.
And while I'm dreaming I might as well meet the woman version of Mark Twight and have her drag my fat ass up all kinds of scary shit; have sex to keep warm on terrible bivies useing GU for lube ; and then have her dump me and break my heart 'cause I'm to lame.
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The Bag and the pants are sold.
The boots are the best deal. They were $340 new.
Make and offer on the friends or over mitts.
Cheers
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Good Thread Matt; Sorry I came in late.
Lizard Brain, I took a course and got my license in sky diving. I jumped once on my own with a full licence and never jumped again. BORING! Except for doing those group formations it is about as much fun as riding a good rollercoaster and takes about as much skill.
My goal in my disipline is to Solo Mt. Logan.
My out of disipline dream is off shore sailing and to become a better aid climber.
My deep dark secret is to be one of those people that survive a true epic and live to tell about it. You know...break a femur and crawl out for 5 days and have to eat your dog.
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Negative 40 degree North Face (North Face) 800 fp Down Bag. Yes Only $20 (Complete with Duct Tape- It is still very useable and is probably good to -15)
Asolo Leather double boots Ridged yet comfy Size 11 1/2 The outer boots are in great shape the inner boots have seen better days.
$20 each (okay it is a cheap shot, $40 for the pair)
Moonstone mountaineering pants. Gortex, Knee & crampon reinforcement, Thiegh pocket, Leather Butt Patch for glisading. $20
Old style friends 1 though 4 includeing 1/2's
$20 bucks each or $50 for 3
Gortex over mitts $10
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Becks right Carolyn; if you want versatility in a boot. Get Leather. I love my Scarpa Invernos, Ridgid, great traction and sensitive. I have climbed vertical ice, alpine rock and done approaches. They are as warm as my old Koflaches and stay dry if you are careful about nik waxing them. They only get wet if you sweat to much or let snow get down inside. I've never had too, but if it gets cold enough wear over gaiters and save $$ because you only need one pair of boots.
The downside is that if they do get wet they are hard to dry in a tent.
OH Yeah, If you are starving to death you can't eat plactic boots
[This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 10-19-2001).]
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In the Zone;
I felt cheated by not hearing why he took such a long fall. One reason to read epic stories is learn how not to repeat the mistakes of others. Even though first story was an amazing display of fortitude and a good read; I have to give the book a big thumbs down.
"Voices from the Summit" is one of the absolute best books on mountaineering that I have ever read (again & again). It is unfortunately only available in a coffee table format and new is priced way to high. Powell's has several used copies for around 20 bucks. I gaurantee it is well worth it.
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I admit, I (mostly) prefer reading about MOONDANCING to topics of bolting.
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Jon, I thought that you were going to move these posts to the new access board.
I talked to the head dudette for the national forest in our area and she said that the "tickets" that they litter our cars with are just invitations to pay and if a person throws them away they never follow up on it. She seemed kind of embarassed about the program and changed the subject and had another beer.
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I'v got an old pair of Moonstone mountaineering pants, Gortex w/ a thigh pocket, knee & Crampon reinforcemant, & a leather butt patch for glissading. You can have them cheap cheap cheap if you want them.
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I am not sure who (or how this was) moved to SPRAY; but thank you very much. A good thread gone bad...or atleast a serious topic gone funny. I gotta say that it encouraged some really prime smilies.
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Pope; Peace man...Sorry Dru no point in a battle here.
Dru: I gotta agree with you about Nutella.
Will:
You're clearly right about misplaced attitude about Friends. My boycott is just a reaction to my frustration at the inability to do anything once a hold is chopped. I also try like hell to boycott Chinese goods because of thier wholesale slaughter of Tibetian culture. Thats a tough thing to do. Why companies like Marmot get things made in China is beyond me. And, Yes I agree about Hill. I was hoping to read a comment from you about my original posting.
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Thanks for the story Will. It's a good one and I can comiserate with you. It should be a good example to those that would bolt with out thinking.
I'm glad that you brought up chalk. I have recently been rethinking it's use. I've decided to only use chalk where it is already there. If I can't climb aesthetically clean rock without chalk< I'll climb something else.
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Freeclimb9; I do support traditional bolting ethics. I even think that a sport bolted area has its place. However, there is nothing traditional about bolting next to a crack or bolting between the bolts placed by the first party on a blank section. It is the proliferation of bolts that makes me sad because it removes for all time the adventure from climbing.
Rafael; You've good points; Thanks
Pope:
Your comments are just plain weird. First you try to insult me and then you seem to agree with me; but try to state that you are somehow more holy.
For the record;
I have clipped bolts, Pope have you?
I also have skipped bolts only because they were not traditionally placed by the first party. Pope have you?
I have not purchased a Freind since I found out that Jardine was a hold chopping muther fucker. Pope have you?
And pope I have bumbled up a 13a, Have you?
I have also smoothly climbed 11b 40 feet above the last bolt thankful that there was a bolt before the 11d crux. Have you; Pope you sniviling piece of shit.
And, Pope, I put in 2 bolts on a first ascent of a 12a. the first involved 10b 20 feet above the deck before the first clip and extended 5.8 70 ft up with ground fall potential. I am proud of the route, I put the bolts in on lead, and in a traditional manner, and Pope you can kiss my ass if you don't like it....TG
[This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 10-11-2001).]
Bag, Boots, Freinds & Mitts - 20 bucks or less
in The Yard Sale
Posted
PM stands for private message. It's that little Icon above the text on the posting.
My address is tgbsteve@eoni.com
Talk to you soon.