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Terminal_Gravity

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Posts posted by Terminal_Gravity

  1. Polish Direct on Agoncagua...eeah hah!

    I got my tickets in the mail yesteday. I'm flying out Jan. 9th. You all will be blessed with no posts from me for a month!

    Winter is already here in the Wallowa's, Two weeks ago I climbed 1000ft of low angle verglass...the local coliours are shaping nicely for early season stuff. Come out & climb...my offer of free [big Drink] beer is still good tongue.gif" border="0

  2. It was along time ago for sure. But I never felt really comfortable leading until I took my first leader fall. I was so hellish gripped, Intellectually I knew I would probably survive. I knew it was about to happen but I never gave up finally muscles failed & I popped. Scraped up and a bit of the wind knocked out of me, but still alive. I rested and finished the pitch. My emotions went through the same thing when I first used a friend. I bought my first few from Jardin in the valley. 25ft out above a 3 cam placement in a flared crack on Half Dome, and the sucker acctually held my 50ft wipper.

    The moral or my point. Scared is normal but the shit acctually works. I've taken about twenty trad leaderfalls and the worst injury was a broken ankle and I've only zipperd out 2 pieces free climbing. But leading is truly a more rewarding experience then following. You should aspire to it.

    One comment, even though the system works, don't let yourself fall, try your absolute hardest. The equipment is a back-up. This attitude will re-inforce good climbing habits and make you a better and safer climber. To often mid level sport climbers give up to easily because there are no possible consequinces to a fall.

    my 10 pesos

  3. Don't get me wrong. I think that incompetent self serving idiots that go into the mountains are one of the most loathsome forms of humans. And to some extent I think that people that pay to be guided up 8000m peaks (and the whore guides that guide them) deserve what they get.

    But that does not justify a "let them die" attitude in the mountains. It is not always the idiots that get in trouble.

  4. News Flash

    Internet security forces have apprehended three suspects on this forum... Bin Sleepin, Bin Loafin and Bin Drinkin were found this morning. The fourth member of the cel remains at large. However an unidentified source says that anyone that fits the discription of Bin Workin should be easy to spot among this forum.

  5. Can anyone recommend a really light harness for alpine work that requires only occasional use? It does not have to be comfy.

    I have trouble justifying a pound + weight. Even an Alpine bod seems way overbuilt for some aplications.

    A double length spectra sling turned into a diaper sling is simple but tends to work down the legs when you high step.

    Also, does any body have a (relativly) cheap source for 70 meters or so of 5.5 spectra cord?

  6. quote:

    Originally posted by sexual chocolate:

    I think the only moral imperative is this: If you have children and family, and you really care about them, STAY OFF THE GODDAMN MOUNTAIN!


    Sexual Chocolate; I think that you are being short sighted. Clearly Scott Fischer was selfish and cared less sbout his family then he should have. Do you know much about Ed Vestiurs (sp?)? I think that he is a perfect example of a top climber that is not a self serving ego-maniac. He is a good father and husband and climbs in a manner that proves it.

    You climb, maybe not at altitude, but some bolt could fail or you could get hit in the head by a falling rock and you could get seriously hurt or dead. Is that fair to your wife? I think if you climb responsibly, that it is. I'm sure you do to.

    (Oops SC, I said "your wife"; I let your gender (and preference) out of the bag.)

     

  7. Haveing an every man for himself attitude is total weak bullshit; at altitude, on a plane with terrorists or anywhere. The absolutly only thing that is moral or ethical is to do one's best to help save a life.

    You would have a much greater chance leaving your kids parentless if every one had the attitude of fuck them I worring about myself.

    It might just be your ass on the line some time. If you have never lost someone very close to you, maybe you can't understand how important it is to the loved one's to have every thing possible done to save a person even if ultimately they die while you are trying.

    Climbing can be dangerous (duh). Part of the exposure equation is that you may need to help someone in harms way. It is a moral imperitive.

    I helped get a true idiot from another party out of a cravasse in the Himalayas. Clearly, he should have not been there. He and his friends had the gear but not the knowledge to save himself. He would have died if not for us. I'm sure that he learned alot from the experience.

    All you have to do is imagine the family of the dieing climber and put your own families faces on theirs. Don't ever kid yourself, no matter how experienced you are, it could be you.

  8. I totally agree with you, Dru. Part of the problem is that many dogs are out of thier comfort area and start to act territorial.

    I've been attacked three times while hiking in the wilderness by confused and territorrial dogs. I had to pull my ice axe once and threaten to kill it if the owners could not keep it under control. I saw a dog chase a little girl (hiking with her parents) into a creek. She slipped and bonked her head, ending the trip for the family. All the stupid owner could say was that the dog wouldn't hurt anyone.

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