Terminal_Gravity

Hey tex, I'm heading to do the Polish in Jan. with a couple of buds and the if time allows and I feel up to it I might solo a south face route. I am planning on spending about $1300 for the trip. Argentina is one of the most expensive So. Am. countries. Bolivia is cheaper and Peru is cheaper still. My all time favorite trip was climbing in Peru... better than the Himalayas by a long way. I gotta ask you a question, killer. Have you ever climbed higher than 17,000ft before? If not; set your sights on Mexico. [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 09-28-2001).]

No can do this weekend. How about 10/6?

Thanks man, I'm just drinking strong beer and avoiding paperwork.

Dru has the more posts than Caveman but is averaging 154 per month. The Caveman is gaining on Dru with 184.5 posts per month.

I'll buy them unless Goatboy has dibs. E-mail me your phone number & address; I'll send you a check - unless you want to trade for an old style friend and an atc or biners. [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 09-27-2001).]

x [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 10-08-2001).]

Sorry nolanr, I want the cat out of the bag. I think that getting some good climbers out here with aggresive agendas to put up a few routes on all of the virgin and wild rock would be a great thing. There is to much out here to have a protectionist attitude. I gaurantee that it will nevr become another Smith...the approaches are to long. Wade, check your private message box-at the bottom of the main page.

When?

S, Where do you live on the east side? I've climbed rock there a bit (haven't we all) and my cousin Jeff Perry (formerly jeff arnold), a rock dog/ alpine skier lives in Tom's Place, works in Bishop. Know him? I might make it down late winter; I'd like to maybe hook-up and climb something.

Dru, There are actually a few things besides the beer that might make it worthwile. There is a grade IV granite wall with only one established route on it, lots of smaller crags (mostly unclimbed),a little winter water ice, some steep alpine couliours and gobs of peaks. The beer is good. My wife drinks all she wants, then my friends and I drink all we want. I sell the rest and manage to pay rent, and buy climbing gear. The unbelievable thing is that it's all leagal-what a country! P.S. Even Bonzo is welcome Caveman, I'll see what I can do about the photos - you sicko. [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 09-26-2001).] [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 09-26-2001).] [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 09-26-2001).] [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 10-08-2001).]

One of Oregon's best kept secrets I guess. 60 miles south of Washington and 20 miles west of Idaho. 6 1/2 hours as the car speeds from Seattle or 5 from Portland. [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 09-26-2001).]

DP, If I can get away (which I think I can) I'd love to climb the spider on the 5th or 6th. Send me a pm and lets talk.

I will give any one from this forum that makes it out to the Wallowa Mountains to climb as much beer as they can drink (or puke-up; if thats your pleasure). I'm currently down to 84 kegs in my cooler.

God, your good Dru. I'll buy you a couple of beers if we ever meet.

In the book Kiss or Kill by Twight he mentions this song. In my alcohol impaired memory I seem to recall it. Anyone know who did it?

syudla and Pp, I just got back from a solo trip to Robson (see all the spray on the climbers board about a week ago). I was not able to summit solo safely. I want to go back with a partner or two. But I would like to climb something less serious with either or both of you first to see how we work together. [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 09-26-2001).]

Hey Payaso, Great cop beta. I especially liked the show me out of town bit. I had a friend get stopped twice on his way out. The guided tour by a cop is probably the best way to avoid the second stop. He latter thought he was an idiot for paying $20 both times. HaHa

That's heartening info to hear, ocom. Thanks, good post.

One other piece of beta for the mexico thing. If you want to be a tourist and gain some weight after the climb I highly recommend the city of Oaxaca and the empty beaches south. In Oaxaca they have these crazy mostly leagal mushroom parlors and you can eat these great tasting (I shit you not) saute'ed grasshoppers. They were sooo... good with guacomole on a tortilla and so good for you too.

Green Dragon (5.11b slab) is also a classic in Yosimite on the Glacier Point apron. I guess it was just a matter of time before names started getting duplicated. Thanks for clearing up my confusion. Cal, Could give me a bit more info on the Silent Partner; is it self feeding, Much Friction? and what the hell are those little steel pegs for...it seems that they could deform in a weird hard fall and pinch or release the rope. ??? [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 09-25-2001).]

TL What gave you the impression that I had a crappy time. O' Contrare... I had a great time and had a lot of good experiences both on and off the mountain. I plan to go back. My attitude is and has always been to get to know the locals, which I did... There is a local climbing club that tries to support climbing and raises money to maintain the infrastructure and rescue services. The Reyes refuses to participate. I have heard that they refuse to help with rescues unless it is their own cleints or cash is paid upfront. It was the locals frustration of how the Reyes uses what seemed to me to be almost draconian measures to maintain their monopoly that has led me to make my opionins. One example is that they do indeed have a monopoly on auto gas and won't sell to the other jeep services. Don't tell me that I have a bad attitude, you don't know shit. Maybe you should open you own eyes to what's happening locally around you next time you climb in a foriegn country and not just stay under the wing of biggest guide service. I think that it is our duty as climbers to help the local economy and climbing clubs when we are abroad and not just line the pockets of the richest guides. Except for the cold shoulder that I got from the Reyes when they found out that I wasn't using their monopoly and was just trying to hook with some other climbers that I met on the plaza, I had no direct bad experiences. Many climbers I have talked to say nothing but good things about the Reyes; but I think that is only because they were too myopic to see the real situation.

Cal, Thanks for the info. Was that Green Dragon on the apron, if so, that was always my favorite test peice to see how I was climbing before I did more serious stuff in the valley: I have fond memories.

Hey Pete A, I climbed Orizaba last year. I flew into MEX City and took busses to Tlachichuca (sp?). It was cheap and fairly quick. I recommend it and can give you more specific info it you want. I also recommend not using the Reyes fucks. They are competant but don't support the local scene, charge over twice as much and discourage individule non standard attepmts or itenararies. I think that Secor did the climbing community a diservice by not mentioning other climbing support services. If you want I could try to look up an old web posting by some Colorado climbers that had a horrible experience with the Reyes. Hotel Gerrar is the alternate full service outfit. Their only down side is lack of english. However, I had a very good experience with a small company that helped us register for the climb and drive us to a very remote non-standard trail head. I would have to look up the info if you want it. That being said, I feel very strongly that if you are the least bit comfortable with your climbing/route finding ability DON'T climb the standard route. Go to the SW side of the mountain. The Ruta Juvenitude is only marginally more technical then the standard. The serpents head direct (AI2+ WI3- 75deg 25ft) was in spetacular shape last year. And there was a plethora of easy to hard ice sub routes and gullies to choose from. (if any one wants to go there with me in 2002 to do this 400-500' dead vertical water fall, let me know). I may be able to send you photos. As far as theft or police hassels we had exactly none. The major precaution that we took besides common sense and awareness was to lock our heavy gear bags together once on the busses so that they would be impossible to move quickly by a theif. By and large we found the people to be honest, fair and helpful. One hint, don't take a taxi from the mexico city airport - garaunteed rip off. [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 09-25-2001).]

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I've decided that I definitly like water better when its frozen. The boat is an old hydra brand (no leaks or patches) white water boat. It's long, so is no good for playing. It rights well so is a good beginner boat. I could deliver to PDX.